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BEING A COLLECTION OF ARTICLES ON HORSESHOEING IN A_LL ITS 
BRANCHES WHICH HAVE APPEARED FROM TIME TO TIME IN THE 
COLUMNS OF "THE BLACKSMITH AND WHEELWRIGHT,'' IN- 
CLUDING A CHAPTER ON OX SHOEING AND THE MOST 
VALUABLE OF THE CONTRIBUTIONS OF PROF. J. 
M. HEARD ON THE DISEASES OF HORSES, 
WHICH HAVE APPEARED IN THE 
VETERINARY DEPART3IENT 
OF THAT JOURNAL. 



COMPILED AND EDITED BY 



PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED. 



New York: 
M. T. RICHARDSON, PUBLISHER 

1889. 




Copyright, 1889. 
By M. T. RICHARDSON. 



CONTENTS. 



PREFACE, • 3 

INTRODUCTION, 5 

CHAPTER I. 
Horses and Horseshoeing, . . » , ' 13 

CHAPTER ]I. 
Special Tools Used by Horseshoers, ... 42 

CHAPTER III. 
Various Devices for Shoeing Ugly Horses, . 67 

CHAPTER IV. 
Preparing the Foot— Hot or Cold Fitting, Which? , 87 

CHAPTER V. 
Contracted Feet, ,...,, 110 

CHAPTER VI. 

Corns and How to Treat Them, .... 148 

CHAPTER VII. 
Interfering and Over-Reaching, ... 153 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Quarter Cracks and Spwt Hoofs, , , , , 178 



CONTENTS. 
CHAPTER IX. 

"•••••. 198 

CHAPTER X. 

Miscellaneous Subjects, 

' • • • . 216 

CHAPTER XI. 

Docking, . 

^241 

CHAPTER XII. 

Tips for Trotters, 

248 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Horse Physiognomy, 

259 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Ox Shoeing, 

270 



PREFACE. 



Numerous works on horseshoeing have, from time to 
time, been pubHshed, but each one from the pen of a 
single individual and representing only his experience 
and theories as to the best methods of practice. 

The present work embraces the varying views of a 
large number of horseshoers located in all parts of the 
United States, and as such is unique in its conception. 
The articles presented in the following pages have, many 
of them, been called out in response to the special in- 
quiries of readers of The Blacksmith and Wheehvright, 
and all of them have previously appeared in the columns 
of that journal. 

Nearly or quite every phase of this intricate subject 
is treated in some shape or other. At the risk of being 
accused by some shoers of presenting misleading views 
or incorrect methods, the Compiler has been liberal in 
making selections from the mass of matter which has 
appeared during the past ten years in the pages of The 
Blacksmith and Wheehvright. He has deemed it better 
to occasionally err in a selection rather than set himself 



^ 



IV PREFACE. 



up as a censor of practices which have been found to 
result satisfactorily in some hands, if not in all. 

Each reader should judge for himself of the practica- 
bility of any given method before adopting it. 

So many ways of accomplishing the same result are 
offered that it is confidently felt that at least one or more 
may be found to fit almost every conceivable case. 
Without desiring to disparage any other work on the 
same subject, the Editor feels that the present volume 
will be found invaluable to every man who shoes horses, 
wholly or in part, for a living. 

Not by any means the least valuable feature of the 

present volume, will be found the numerous tools for 

horseshoers as well as devices for controlling unruly 

horses. 

The Editor. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The first method of protectmg* the horse's feet was by 
means of buskins, as they were termed ; then came a net- 
work, and lastly metal shoes. The impetuous action of the 
animals, their weig-ht, and the angular form of the hoof 

have given much trouble about the manner of fastening on 
the shoes. 

In Japan a kind of rushwork is used, which wraps the 
whole hoof, but it wears so fast on the road that travelers 
take a quantity with them on a journey, and poor people 
have them ready-made for sale at stopping places. The 
Mongols in high northern places shoe their horses with the 
palmy parts of reindeer horns. 

In ancient Persia, where the breeds of gray, dun and bay 
racers are all hard-hoofed, the use of shoes in the sandy dis- 
tricts was needless, and not much attention was required 
to the abrasion of horn ; but in the higher and more stony 
districts, where the frog and edges of the hoof became more 
tender, it was looked to. In rapid and long-continued 
marches the hardest hoofed animals became crippled, and 
in history we find more than one instance where military ex- 
peditions were arrested in their progress until the horses 
had time to recover and i^estore their hoofs. These occur- 
red chiefly when great operations were directed by foreign 
commanders who trusted to their energy for surmounting ob- 
stacles which native warriors believed to be impracticable. 
Thus Alexander the Great, at the siege of Cyzicus, was 
thwarted and delayed, while the Persians, under Darius, 
and the Parthians appear to have been equally distressed 
under similar circumstances. 

5 



6 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

At the time of Hannibal's invasion of the Roman Empire 
horseshoeing- appears to have been unknown to the Cartha- 
ginians, as we read that that mighty warrior was some- 
times compelled to give his famous cavalry horses a rest 
to enable their feet to recover from the soreness occasioned 
by rapid and prolonged marches. That the Arabs of the 
Hegira (a.d. 622), or within a generation later, shod their 
horses is plain, if we believe that the iron work on the sum- 
mit of the standard of Hosien, at Ardbeil, was made from 
a horseshoe belonging to Abbas, uncle of Mohammed, by 
order of- his daughter Fatima. It was brought, says the 
legend, from Arabia by Sheik Sofi. It is probable, therefore, 
that the art of shoeing must have been known among the 
Arabs as early as tlie time of Mohammed. These people 
say their first farrier. came to them from the seaboard. 

The greatest and earliest difficult}^ in the management 
of the horse's hoof seems to have been to combine a hard 
substance for the wear and tear with a ready means of fast- 
ening that would not injure the corneous substance, the 
ancients feeling that to make a puncture in the hoof would 
cause pain to the animal and otherwise injure him; yet 
iron was found to be admissible. The form of the Asiatic 
horseshoe is circular, and instead of being fastened on by 
means of nails driven tlirough the hoofs, it is secured by the 
clamps that appear to have closed on the outside or ascend- 
ing surface. The exact counterpart of form, etc., existed at 
the period of the Ionian Greeks. The making* of incisions 
in the hoof for the sharp points of the clamps to obtain a 
hold probably led to the knowledge that little or no pain 
was caused to the horse, and thus holes were bored for the 
nails, which became ever after the method of fastening*. 

BARBAROUS EXTRAVAGANCE. 

The round horseshoe of old Arabian methods was an im- 
provement on the Circassian, the outside clamps being* 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 7 

omitted and nail holes substituted. Then came the altera- 
tion to thinner iron plates with but little opening*. Then 
the more lengthened heels, all unfit for securing the feet m 
rocky countries. Then the war horses were shod with very 
larg*e, heavy iron shoes, slig-htly turned up and pointed at 
the toe, also cocked at the heel with broad spikes to afford 
a surer footing at a charge. In the chivalrous age a march- 
ing party of marauders, by placing the horses' shoes in a 
reversed manner, deceived pursuers, who, seeing the toe- 
marks in a given direction, turned their backs upon the 
route they pursued. This was practiced in the border wars 
by what were called ** moss-troopers," who had often great 
reason to avoid capture, for the gallows not unfrequently 
closed their career. 

Contrary to the general impression, says Gen. Dumas, the 
Arabs of the Sahara are in the habit of shoeing their horses 
with a view to the nature of the ground they are compelled 
to travel over. It seems to be the universal practice among 
these people to remove the shoes in spring, when the animals 
are turned out to grass, it being asserted that care must be 
taken not to check the renewal of the blood, which, it is 
thought, takes place at this season of the year. Their 
horseshoes are kept read^^ made (four sets of fore and hind 
shoes being- a year's supply), and are fitted cold. The 
shoes are very light, but made of well-hammered iron. 
The hoof is allowed to grow freely, being neither pared nor 
shortened, the very stony ground and incessant work re- 
quired of the horse sufficing* to wear it off naturally, as by 
growth it projects over the iron. 

The Arabian smith while plying his vocation sits with 
legs crossed and doubled under him. 

The nails used are so constructed as to serve as calks, be- 
ing" provided with larg-e oblong heads. 

In the days when barbarous extravagance was taken for 
magnificence, a horse was occasionally shod with silver. 



8 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

In the eleventh century — or, to g-ive the exact date, a.d. 
1038 — Boniface, Marquis of Tuscany, a wealthy prince, in 
g-oing" to meet Beatrix, his intended bride, had his horses 
shod with silver, and the shoes were allowed to be cast off 
in order to be appropriated by the multitude that followed 
in throng's. At a later date Lord Doncaster, an English 
ambassador, acted in a similar manner on his public en- 
try into Paris. The following account may be amusing : 
'^ Six trumpeters and two marshals in rich velvet liveries 
closely laced over with gold, led the way ; then came the 
ambassador and retinue of pages, booted, with horses rich- 
ly caparisoned. The ambassador's horses were shod with 
silver shoes, lightly tacked on, and Avhen he came to a place 
where persons of beauty or emipence were, his horses pranced 
and curveted in a showy manner and threw the shoes away, 
which the greed}^ multitude scrambled for, and he was con- 
tent to be gazed on until a farrier — or, rather, argentier — 
from among- his trained footmen took from out a velvet bag 
others and tacked them on, which lasted until he came to 
the next group of grandees, and thus, with much ado, he 
reached the Louvre." 

William the Conqueror is said to have introduced horse- 
shoeing in England, yet one Welbeck in Nottinghamshire, 
the property of a Saxon chief named Gamelbere, who re- 
tained his fief on the condition of shoeing the king's palfrey 
whenever he should lie at the Manor of Mansfield, and that 
he should give another palf re.y whenever he should lame the 
king's animal, is recorded. If the account should he true, 
horseshoers must be older in England than the Norman 
Conquest, and when looking at the Bayeux tapestry it is 
perceived that both Saxon and Norman horses showed un- 
equivocal mar'ks of shoes and hob-nails on their feet. 

Henry de Ferrers, who bore six horseshoes in his shield, 
was of the Norman invaders, and, it is believed, was intrust- 
ed with the inspection of the king's farriers. The armorial 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 9 

bearing's are, it is true, older than txxxi regular establish- 
ment of heraldry, but most likely they were, tog-ether Avith 
the family names, signs of office. The proper names of Mar- 
shall and Smith are singularly typified by hammers, tongs, 
anvils and horseshoes. 

THE ''CURVED CHARM." 

In regard to the superstition attached to the " curved 
charm,'' it is universal. In Abyssinia, Barbar^^, and even in 
Guinea, horseshoes are fixed on doors and the thresholds 
of houses as much as in Europe, Asia and America. One 
is seen carved on a pag-an Runic monument of the eleventh 
century, and the practice is known in Japan, China and 
Persia, and it is traced upon the cabin door of the Hotten- 
tot and the West Coast negro almost as frequently as on the 
barn door of a Dutch or English farmhouse. The horse- 
shoe may be seen nailed to the mast of the coasting vessels^ 
not after the manner of antiquity, with the heels up, but 
with the arch topmost. In Devonshire and Cornwall, 
England, they are nailed on the great west door of the 
church ; also on the door of the church at Halcomber, 
Devonshire, where formerl}^ four horseshoes were seen, 
possibly to keep off witches, whose especial amusement it 
was 

**To untie the winds, and make them fight 
Against the churches." 

Inquiry receives the same answer to sj^mbolize a con- 
temptible superstition in this country. Whittier says : 

'* And still o'er many a neighbor's door 
She saw the horseshoe's curved charm." 

" The cautious goodman nails no more 
A horseshoe on his outside door, 
Lest some unseemly hag should fit 
To his own mouth her bridle bit.' 



10 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



The shoe, an illustration (Fig*. 1) of which is here given, was 
taken from the foot of one of the Arabian horses presented to 
General Grant by the Sultan of Turkey. According" to Flem- 



-5;*?f*n''^^3?^^f^?f3rp5^^ 




Fig. 1.— Shoe from the foot of one of the Arabian Stallions presented to General Grant 
in 1879 by the Sultan of Turkey. 

ing, the horses of the East have been shod with similar shoes 
for the past 500 years, the only variation from the form shown 
in the engraving being in the opening for the frog", which is 
usually made triangular. 
The dimensions of this shoe are as follows : Length, 5f 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



11 



inches ; width, 4 J inches ; thickness, i of an inch. The heel, 
which is bent up about | of an inch, shows a fracture in the 
iron at the point where it was originally welded. The nail- 
holes are one-fourth of an inch in diameter. 




Fig. 2.— Nail taken 

from an Arabian 

Horseshoe. 



Fig 3.— Syrian 
Horse Nail. 



¥ig. 4.— Spanish 
Horse Nail. 



In Fig. 2 is shown the st3^1e of nail used in shoeing Ara- 
bian horses. ■ It seems bungling and clumsj^ in comparison 
with the neat, trim American nails. Fig. 3 is, if anything, 
more bungling in construction than the Arabian nail, and 
represents the nail in use in Syria. Fig. 4, a Spanish nail, 
is a step forward, and, at least, resembles our modern nail. 



CHAPTER I. 

HORSES AND HORSESHOEING. 
The Treatment of Horses. 

Being* very fond of horses, and finding in a good lively 
drive with an occasional friendly *^ brush'' more of real 
solid enjo^^ment than in almost any other recreation, I 
am naturally led to think^ much upon the subject of the 
proper care and treatment of horses, and also through 
observation and comparison to form opinions as to suitable 
vehicles and best condition of roads, through the medium 
of which the most enjo^^ment may be had with the least 
of wear and tear and danger. 

A horse fit to be called a good roadster, that is, one hav- 
ing the necessary amount of speed to start up and pull a 
wagon with two men over a country road, far from level, at 
a really rapid gait, must have some breeding, be in good 
health and condition, and have good feet. What are good 
strains of blood can be learned from breeders. There must 
be bone, and muscle, and proper form, but there must be 
intelligence and courage, Avith that gamecock pluck which 
cannot be found in dunghills. The right horses may be had 
by the thousand, and how to properly feed and care for 
them in general, covering all matters of stabling, ventilation, 
grooming, clothing, harness and fittings, how to drive to 
develop latent speed and improve upon that alread3^ devel- 
oped, or at least to keep the developed trotter or roadster 



14 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

at the best, are subjects that have been so thoroughly 
treated upon by veterinarians, professional drivers, and 
gentlemen amateurs as to appear to leave nothing more to 
be said. 

Still it is a fact that there are continually^ many of the 
most promising horses going wrong — * Agoing all to pieces." 
to quote a common saying — in spite of being in the best of 
hands, where no reasonable trouble or expense would be 
counted too great whereby they could be kept right or 
cured after going wrong. These things show that either 
the teaching is at fault, or that little, seemingly unimpor- 
tant conditions, so slight as to be overlooked, are really of 
great consequence. 

A great many horses have a hitch in the gait produced 
by driving at speed too far when the pulling weight was 
great, or asking for a little too much speed of a colt. Ask- 
ing the horse to speed right out before the proper amount 
of slow work has been done on first leaving the stable, pro- 
duces the same defect. Hitching is nearly as bad as crib; 
bing, is unsightly and anno3dng, and cuts speed down equal 
to absolute lameness. It is sometimes cured, but where one 
confirmed hitcher is taught to again go square, hundreds 
of square, pure-gaited horses might be kept soby ^' waiting 
a little." 

From a condition of absolute soundness, feet get sore, 
get, in fact, in the same condition which is known to be the 
sequel of acute founder neglected, and still without any 
acute founder. Neglect of proper paring at reasonable 
intervals; lack of suitable exercise; want of necessar3^ mois- 
ture ; ill-fitting shoes which, by preventing tlie foot from 
performing in all its parts the natural functions that tend 
to the secretion of healthy horn and the preservation 
through suitable action of proper shape; bruising of the 
sole by contact with small stones in driving, these stones 
being often picked up between the frog and web of the shoe 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 15 

and carried for miles, or even left in the foot for days by 
that class of men who say, ''Humph, I never trouble my- 
self about a horse's foot. If a horse is sound he wants 
nothing- done to his feet"— these and divers other causes 
gradually— and to the owners and drivers many times— 
imperceptibly produce a condition of the feet which shortens 
the g-ait, impairs the speed, and causes on-lookers to say : 

'' 's horse is sore, actually g'oes lame at times"; and 

still the g-entlest hint to the owner that his horse is not " all 
right" will be indignantly be met with the response, 
'* Sound as any horse in the world," until downright lame- 
ness ensues. Now something must be done, and the 
veterinarian is consulted, who, with pills and powders, 
balls, blisters, and poultices, special shoeing and hoof oint- 
ment, soakers and bandages, and continuous care, palliates 
the horse's disease and depletes the pocket of the owner, and 
finally admits, when patience has been, exhausted, what 
he knew was the fact in the beginning, that '' all treatment 
is only palliative — a cure is impossible." 

Well, what can be done? Much may be done. Insist 
upon having as much of the superfluous growth of hoof cut 
awa}^ at each shoeing as will relieve the foot from any undue 
pressure caused by excessive growth. Don't pare the frogs, 
but, by sufficient moisture, keep them in such condition that 
"frog pressure" shall come w^ow an elastic cushion, not 
upon a substance as unyielding as the wall itself. Pressure 
on the frog is beneficial only when the frog is in proper con- 
dition to receive it. Don't insist too strongly upon leaving 
the sole untouched by the knife without first knowing what 
sort of feet you are dealing with. Some feet will shed out 
the dead horn from the sole in scales of considerable thick- 
ness once in a month or six weeks, and never need to have 
the sole pared at all. Other feet which have the sole un- 
touched by the knife will never shed out a particle of the 
sole for an entire year^ and by the accumulation of hoof 



16 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

which should not remain, and if shed out should he cut 
out, such feet are subjected to pressure which must cause 
excessive pain and produce corns and sore, shortened 
action. 

To compensate for the change from the cool, soft turf, 
with the morning' due upon the grass, and the occasional 
wade in the brook or through the marsh which the horse 
finds in pasturage, to the hard, dry roads, with the dust, 
heated in summer to blistering, and the dry, unyielding 
floor of the stable, there must be some moistening or soften- 
ing' agency applied to the feet at times or there will be con- 
traction, corns, uncertain, tender-footed action, and finally 
downright lameness. '' Yes, give them a good soaldng out 
in hot water two or three times a week, and stuff them over 
night with linseed meal and wheat bran." No, not till such 
treatment is necessary, and with proper care it need not 
become necessar^^ Keep a soaking tub or box, and, wi^ 
as much clean, cool water as will reach above the coronet, 
let the horse stand with fore-feet immersed for a few min- 
utes, or an hour, once in a few da^^s, or weeks, or ever^^ day, 
as the dryness of the roads or the condition of the particu- 
lar feet in question demands. This, with the application of 
a good hoof ointment in some cases, will do much good. 
Aim to keep the feet cool, w^ith the frogs in an elastic con- 
dition. Make a soaking box 18 inches long, 12 inches wide, 
and 7 inches deep inside, by having the sides the same 
length of the bottom, and nailing them to the bottom, then 
nailing the end pieces to the sides and bottom, the bottom 
board being inside. Such a box will hold water as well as 
a tub, is lighter, and takes up less room. Make it of pine 
from full 1 inch to IJ inches thick. 

When a horse comes in from a drive, clean his feet out 
with some sensible kind of hoof -pick which will get the 
gravel from between the sole and web of the shoe, then 
with a sponge and pail of w^ater wash each foot clean, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 17 

inside and out. Of hoof ointments there are plenty. Vase- 
line will answer first-rate. 

If a quick drive is to be made, whether of ten or twelve 
miles within the hour, or of twenty or thirty miles at the 
same rate, don't be in a hurry at the start. Begin easily, 
warm your horse up gradually, get the joints limbered up 
and in good working order, and as the lungs and heart get 
in proper action, w^ith stomach and bowels relieved as they 
will be by waiting a little, j^our horse can rattle along 
easily at a rate which Avould have made him puff and blow, 
and scour, and lather if started out too fast at first, and 
you " get there " with your horse in good shape. With 
some drivers certain horses are said to be *' poor feeders," 
while with other drivers the same horses will do as much 
work and never lose a feed. Don't start out too strong; 
always ease off a little toward the last end of a drive. 
Slackening down to a jog or walk for the last mile of a drive 
makes, sometimes, hours of difference in the time it takes 
for the horse to be dry and comfortable, besides letting the 
machinery, wiiich has been working at its utmost tension, 
get back to something like its normal condition under easy 
action, instead of coming to a standstill from the high state 
of strain. 

About Horseshoeing. 

It is probable that on no other subject pertaining to me- 
chanical practice is there more diversity of opinion. If we 
go to the authors of treatises on horseshoeing, we are told 
that to keep the horse's foot in a perfect condition of health 
it is simply necessary to shoe according to the rules laid 
down by them ; but when we turn from the opinions ex- 
pressed and rules laid down by one writer, to find him con- 
tradicted on ever}^ important point by other authorities, 
w^iat are we to do ? With one the all-important thing is 



18 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



)> 



^^cold fitting/' while another recommends '^ hot fitting, 
not simply as admissible and something to be tolerated, but 
as the only way in which a shoe can be properly fitted, 
and as being a positive benefit to the foot rather than an 
injury. 

To open out the heels, even to drawing blood — using a 
saw for the purpose when necessity, or laziness, suggests 
it, and then cut down the wall all that it will bear, follow- 
ing this by a cutting away of the entire sole until it readily 
yields to slight pressure with the thumb, or till the blood 
oozes through, while the frog is also nicely trimmed off, 
is advised by one, while another says, ''The frog and sole 
should never, under any circumstances, be cut at all." 

But the subject is of too wide a scope, the opinions and 
practices of horseshoers and horse-owners differ too radi- 
cally ; while the almost endless variety of feet to be slfod, 
the variety multiplied over and over by the varied condi- 
tions in which the feet are found, owing in some measure to 
shoeing both good and bad , leave too much to be written to 
hope for more than the most casual reference here to a few 
of the abuses to be found. 

How better point out these abuses, as they look to the 
writer, than to relate some scraps of personal experience ? 
But need I put this experience in the first person ? Have 
not so many other horse-owners been through the same 
experience that to state the fact, leaving out the ''I," will 
come right home to them ? A new horse is purchased after 
careful examination of feet and limbs ; the gait and manner 
of going are all that could be desired, and there is not a 
mark on any ankle or knee to show that there has ever been 
such a thing as striking either forward or behind. For two, 
three, or even for four or five weeks the horse is driven 
with the same shoes he wore when purchased, the clinches 
get out so that it looks dangerous to go longer without 
shoeing, and still there has been no interfering. The horse 



THE PRACTICAL H0RSE8H0ER. 19 

is taken to the shop and has *' a new set all round." The 
old shoes when removed are contemptuously tossed into 
the scrap heap, with the remark that "it is a great 
wonder that the horse could go at all with such things on ; 
should suppose he would cut himself all to pieces." Now 
the horse is to be shod properly. No more great sprawling 
shoes. 

The feet are cut down, the soles are pared thin, the frogs 
are ^ brimmed into some shape," and the shoes are fitted 
full on the outside and close on the inside. Of course 
there is no harm in fitting the shoe full even to projecting a 
little on the outside, but on the inside, where there may be 
danger of striking, the shoe must be fitted and nailed on 
close. What is close ? Why, anywhere fron one-sixteenth 
to one-quarter of an inch out from being flush with the wall 
on the inside quarter, the projecting hoof to be rasped off 
after the shoe is nailed on and the clinches laid down. In 
rasping off the projecting wall from the inner quarter to the 
toe, the shoer, to avokl an unsightl}^ joining of angles, car- 
ries the rasping up on the wall to, perhaps, within an inch, 
or thereabouts, of the coronet; and of course to make it look 
right the rasping must be continued all the wslj around to 
the same height, when by a liberal application of saliva, and 
a rub with the hand or corner of the apron, or sometimes 
with a dampened sponge kept for the purpose, the injury to 
the enamel is to some extent concealed temporarily, and the 
horse is pronounced well shod. 

What is the result ? 

The small stones which strike the sole cause the horse to 
flinch and finally to go almost continually lame, or at least 
with an uncertain gait, caused in part by actual hurt and 
partly from fear of being hurt. There is a tendency of the 
ankles to turn in, and also at the knee, at each successive 
step, owing to the lessened amount of ground bearing which 
the foot has on its inner half. Half ? No j too much has 



20 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

"been cut away, and with the inequality of surface on which 
the foot must be placed in traveling* the greater amount of 
surface covered by that portion of the foot outside of the 
frog than inside, the g'reater distance from the center out 
acting as a powerful lever, the ankles and knees are deflect- 
ed inward so much as to make it impossible for the passing 
foot to get by without hitting. 

Here we have an interfering horse, hitting every ankle 
and both knees as a direct, unmistakable result of shoeing ; 
and the worst of it is, from just the shoeing which is so 
g-enerally believed to be a preventive of interfering, and 
which will be persisted in until the horse becomes a perfect 
cripple unless "booted all over," while the walls of such 
feet, denuded of the enamel, and at every shoeing losing 
more and more of their substance through the use of the 
rasp, will become so split as to make it difficult to fifid a 
sound place for a nail. 

It is not cutting away the little which may be cut from 
the inside of the foot that insures its passing the ankle or 
knee without hitting, but it is the position of the knee or 
ankle relative to the line of motion of the foot in passing 
which has the greatest influence. Who says, " Everybody 
knows that " ? Who says, " That's just w^hy we shoe in the 
way you condemn"? Well, then, tell me why this horse 
began to interfere almost from the moment he left your 
shop, and in driving ten miles had bloody ankles, laying 
the foundation for a callous spot on each ankle, where no 
hair will ever again grow, while he had not a mark of this 
kind before you took him in hand ? 

Shoeing Horses. 

Said a driver of trotting horses to the writer, in speak- 
injEp of a valuable trotting mare which was beaten in 
straight heats three weeks ago : '' When I took her, directly 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 21 

after the race, I found her feet so soft from having been 
stuffed with linseed meal that she actually could not go 
without flinching, and the sinell from her feet was enough 
to knock one over." 

Said I, " Did you not drive this mare yesterday against 
the same horse that heat her in straight heats three weeks 
ago ?" 

*' I did," he replied, " and she won in three heats, under 
a good pull all the wa}^ and is going now as sound as a 
colt. She wants no stuffing of feet ; just ' tub her out ' once 
in a while. It doesn't do to keep a horse's feet too soft." 

One writer says : ''I have found more trouble caused by 
not cutting enough than by cutting too much ; I like to see 
all dead tissue cut away." 

Into just such hands a friend of mine fell who had a good 
road horse that could trot in about two-thirty, and a sound- 
going one she was, as sure-footed as a deer. Not long 
after the *' cutting away of all dead tissue" began, this 
well-shod animal with good feet surprised her driver by 
falling down, and in the space of six months fell five or six 
times, while in traveling she often flinched as though her 
fore-feet were tender. *'Stop cutting," said a man whose 
advice was asked. The cutting was stopped, except to cut 
from the wall enough at each shoeing to keep pace with the 
growth, leaving the sole untouched, and this valuable horse 
is just as good and sure-footed as ever again. 

'^ Fitted with a bearing all around the wall except the 
heels," says this writer, and he continues: *' George in 
shoeing a horse forward fitted the shoes lightly on the 
heel." 

Now, there can be no more reprehensible practice in shoe- 
ing than this of fitting a shoe so that when nailed on, and 
drawn home and clinched, there is an open space between 
the shoe and the heels of all the way from one-sixteenth of 
an inch to a full quarter of an inch, this space growing less 



22 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

as it goes forward from the heel until finall^^ at some point 
away around at the side of the foot the shoe bears. 

I heard a blacksmith say, not long- since, that ^' some men 
were cranks on horseshoeing." Perhaps I am one. I have, 
at least, decided opinions about this matter of a level bear- 
ing of the shoe all over the entire wall, and, above all, at 
the heel. I have many times seen that kind of fitting which 
would permit a case-knife to pass between the hoof and the 
shoe at a point from two to two and a half inches, and even 
three inches, forward from where the extreme point of the 
heel should have rested on the shoe, but did not touch it 
within an eighth of an inch, and in extreme cases an open 
space w^as shown of from three-sixteenths to one- quarter 
inch at the heel. It is often the case that this condition ap- 
plies to the inner quarter and heel onl3% or, more correc^y 
speaking, the opening is hardly ever alike as between the 
inside and outside quarter. 

If the man who fits shoes thus is asked why he does it, 
he says, "That horse has corns, and by cutting away the 
hoof, wall, sole, and braces on the inside quarter it relieves 
the pressure." Yes, and produces an undue strain in the 
foot, as the weight is brought to bear at each step taken, or 
for every moment of time in which the horse stands. Lift 
a foot thus shod and note the space between hoof and 
shoe, and then, letting the foot rest on the ground or a 
level floor, let an assistant raise the other foot, thereby 
throwing the weight upon the foot under examination. 
Why ! The shoe springs up to the foot ! No, the foot 
springs down to the shoe. Well, anyhow, the space be- 
tween is no longer to be seen ; the foot rests on the shoe. 
Just here the man Avho puts the shoe on says : " Well, what 
do you want ? It comes down as soon as the weight comes 
on it." 

I want the shoe and foot both level, so that they (iome to- 
gether evenly all the way around from toe to heel, and I 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 23 

don't want the man who pares the foot to shorten the bear- 
ing* at the heel by cutting- olt' that extreme back corner, 
which is done so dexterously hy a turn of the wrist, and 
with such a mixture of profound satisfaction and malice 
aforethought. 

If the weight thrown upon the foot tends to expand and 
produce action in the back part of the foot, varying" in 
amount just as the weight brought to bear is greater or less, 
or as tlie impact is more or less violent as between walking- 
and varying rates of speed up to the horse's g'ait, is it not 
plain that the best condition in which to place the foot is on 
a plain level bearing, and, further, is it not plain that this 
mischievous space between hoof and shoe must become, as 
the horse is driven, a receptacle for dirt and gravel, the bear- 
ing of which on the seat of corn cannot be otherwise than 
injurious ? How would a man like it, I wonder, to wear a 
pair of boots with two-thirds of the length of the boot from 
the toes back strapped firmly to a bearing fitting the con- 
tour of that part of the foot, while back of this part of the 
foot was a depression in the insole of such magnitude that 
the heel could only reach any bearing by the foot springhig 
out of its natural shape, the sole of the boot being made 
rigid? But, to complete the parallel, let us take off the 
counter from this boot, so that the dirt and gravel shall have 
free access to the bearing on which the heel must come if it 
bears at all. How would a man walk shod thus ? His feet 
would soon be so sore that he would be afraid to put them 
to the ground, and any inequalities in the surface which 
caused this rigid sole to which his foot was strapped to be 
elevated at the heel, or turned to one side, or, in fact, the 
slightest deviation from a level plain bearing of these hoofs 
upon the ground, would cause additional pain. Shoe a horse 
as I have described, and watch his gait, and say whether 
the parallel is not complete. One shoeing has changed 
many a horse from an easy-gaited, sure-footed traveler to a 



24 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

tender-footed, uncertain-gaited stumbler that flinches every 
time the feet touch a stone or uneven spot in the road, 
until the ever-present dread of hurting* the feet on the 
part of the horse destroys all pleasure on the part of the 

driver. 

I am contradicting the authorities, I know, but I once had 
a horse shod for quarter cracks according to the popular 
idea, " Feet cut away to remove all pressure from the parts 
affected." It was a bad case, two cracks in each foot, both 
sides of both feet cracked. " Old Ben " went so lame that 
I was ashamed to drive him. I took him back after a few 
days to the man who had cut away his feet and shod him. 
I said : 

^' This horse can't go, so I want these shoes taken olf, and 
his feet pared level ; then I want a pair of good thick shaes 
of equal thickness all the way around put on so that they 
will bear evenly from toe to heel, the shoe and hoof coming 
together evenly all the way around just as any two level 
surfaces must ; then when the weight is thrown upon the 
feet there will be no unequal strain set up.'' 

Did P. K. — counted the best slioer in town— see the point ? 
No, he did not. He said, " You can't pare those feet down 
enough now to make them level without paring too much; 
you will have to wait till they grow. Besides, if the feet 
could be pared and shod according to your idea you could 
not drive the horse at all. In fact, I don't believe you could 
get him home ; you had better let him be as he is. I think, 
with my experience in horseshoeing, you ought to be will- 
ing to admit that my judgment is better on the subject than 
yours." 

Said I : "The horse is mine ; if he can't go after shoeing* 
in any way he may stand still, and if you shoe him accord- 
ing to m}^ instructions you shall take none of the blame if 
he is worse for it." The bar shoes were removed and care- 
fully preserved by the shoer, who said: '^ You will want them 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 25 

again to-morrow." A pair of lieavy plain slioes were put 
on which fitted " to a shaving-." Old Ben started out with- 
out a semblance of lameness. I used him for a year and his 
feet grew out sound. He could pull two men to a top car- 
riage in two-fifty, and his walking gait was five miles per 
hour. What a roadster he was ! How near he came to being 
ruined \-By S. W. G. 

Practical Horseshoeing. 

My experience in horseshoeing, which extends over quite 
a number of years, teaches me that there can be no arbi- 
trary rules laid down hy which we must work in shoeing 
horses. 

There are as many different shapes of feet in horses as 
there are the human family, and as many different gaits, 
all of which require a different shoe and a difl'erent style of 
shoeing. 

First, there is the draught horse, which usuall}^ has a large 
round hoof, and needs a strong, heavy shoe well chamfered 
out on tlie inside next to the sole. His foot in a state of 
health, in our climate, is nearly always very hard, so I take 
great pains in paring the sole. I do not cut out all the horn, 
as some do; I take out the dead sole, but do not pare so thin 
that I can spring it with m^^ thumb nail, as I think that is 
too thin to prevent injury to the sole by stubs or stones, and 
will bring ice and snow in too close contact with the sensi- 
tive sole. 

I make a shoe the shape of the foot and as large as I can 
nail on, bringing it around under the heel just sufficient to 
get a good bearing on the crust of the hoof, but not close 
enough to injure the frog. As much mjury can be done by 
shoeing too wide as by shoeing too close at the heels. 

I let the shoe extend back of the heels from three-eighths 
to one-half inch, and where they are calked I slant the calks 



26 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

at the heels a little back and the toe calk a little forward. 
Where the horse is kept on shoes all the time I use a toe clip; 
but where he runs barefoot all the summer I consider a toe 
clip a positive injury, as the hoof is ver^^ liable to crack where 
clip sets in when the horse is turned barefoot in the summer 
on our hard roads. 

I use a nail as small as I dare, because it is less liable to 
tear the hoof. I drive the nails well up into the hoof, which 
I am able to do because the shoe is full3^ as larg'e as the foot. 
I clinch or draw them down very tightly, and, if the foot is 
perfectly level, tight drawing- will not do any harm. I cut 
the clinches quite short and rasp them to an edge, but do 
not cut into the nail with the corner of the rasp or cut a fur- 
row into the hoof. 

In clinching down I pound down the clinch with my ha«n- 
mer, being careful to strike equally down toward the head 
of the nail, as if I were riveting.it ; and if any of the nail 
sticks out I rasp it off, but never try to drive it into the hoof 
as a wrought nail is driven into a pine board, as that will 
always loosen the shoe. I do as little rasping as possible, 
believing it to be an injury to the hoof. 

I alwa^^s begin to nail at the toe and nail backward, as 
this will expand the hoof; and if the horse is hoof-bound, 
b}^ careful driving of the nails the hoof- can be spread all the 
horse needs or can stand. In this way I have cured several 
cases of hoof-bound. It is much better than spreading the 
shoe after nailing on. 

In shoeing livery or buggy horses I use as light a shoe as 
I can get. I make the calks, if any are required, ver^^ small 
and short, and I file the shoe bright and smooth, and then file 
the corner oft' the upper side, so that when it is on there is a 
bright strip around the shoe next the foot about the size of 
a No. 12 wire. This is a great improvement in the looks of 
the foot. I generally fit a shoe hot, unless the owner objects, 
as he sometimes does, but I only touch the foot with the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 27 

shoe enoug-li to see where to cut to make a good, tight, level 
fit. I never burn the shoe into the hoof. 

When a horse interferes, I pare the foot a little the low- 
est on the outside, turn the inside calk just as usual, weld a 
long- calk on the outside line of the shoe, leaving- it the full 
length, and place the toe calk a little to the inside of the 
center. This seldom fails to prevent striking where the leg 
is not swollen. 

I have never made the shoeing of race horses a study as I 
have the shoeing of draught, livery, and stage horses. — By 
B. N. S. 

Horseshoeing. 

I have found, in m}^ twenty-five years' experience in black- 
smithing and horseshoeing, that no work comes in the shop 
that requires more care, thought, and investigation than 
horseshoeing. 

The first thing to consider is preparing the foot for the 
shoe. I think there can be more harm done by doing too 
much at this stage of the job than in doing too little. But 
it is impossible to frame any rules that would be applicable 
to all feet, for the upright or arched foot requires very 
difl'erent treatment from that necessary for a flat foot with 
a low heel. In the arched foot the horn grows ver3^ fast, 
especially on the sole and towards the toe, and if the shoe 
has been on the foot for a considerable length of time it 
w^ill be necessary to use the knife and rasp quite freely. 
But in the flat foot the horn groAvs very sparingly, and con- 
sequently the knife and rasp should be used with caution. 
In preparing the upright foot for the shoe, the dead horn 
should be removed from the sole first. It will usually come 
off in flakes and scales. When it has been removed, yon 
will have a fair idea of how much should be taken from the 
wall. In all cases I think it best not to interfere much with 



28 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

the bars or the frog, for these are very hnportant parts of 
the foot. Yet how often has a foot been contracted by the 
cutting- away of these important parts ! Then the smith will 
too often resort to some cruel mechanical device for opening 
the heels. 

It has been said, with truth, that the nailing of an iron 
shoe on the foot of a living horse is an unnatural thing to 
do, but, as it must be done, let us, fellow-craftsmen, strive to 
do it in the most natural way possible. And to do this we 
must first get the foot as near as we can to its natural 
shape, and then make the shoe to fit the foot. Keep it full 
with the wall from the quarter to the heel, and I think it is 
ver}^ important that the shoe should bear only on the Avail 
of the foot. Use as small a nail as possible and punch t^e 
holes large enough, so the nails Avill not bend in them. I 
would recommend punching the holes to suit the angle of 
the foot — that is, if the foot is an upright one, let the holes 
be almost through. But if the foot is flat, make the hole 
slant inwardly to suit the greater angle of the foot. — By 
W. M. 

General Directions for Shoeing Horses. 

In shoeing horses it is diflicult to lay down a rule to 
apply to all cases. We find such a great difference in 
horses' feet, generally speaking. Even in single cases we 
find no two feet which should be shod exactly tlie same. In 
the first place, it is of great importance to the shoer to. 
understand the nature of a horse's foot ; then he can very 
easily tell when a foot is in a right position, or when it 
is misplaced. When he understands the difi'erent position 
of the bones, tendons, and ligaments, then he can very 
easily see where the foot needs trimming. Kow, there is not 
attention enough given to this part of the trade of shoeing. 

In trimming a horse's foot, of course it is necessary to 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 29 

know which part is high and which is low. It would not 
do for me to say, '^ Trim all feet alike," because all feet are 
not alike. That is why I say there is not enough attention 
given to placing horses' feet in the right position. For in- 
stance, a horse comes to the shop, and the owner says : 
''This horse is lame and I want you to shoe him." The 
smith takes off the shoes, or sets his man at it, and tells 
him to pare the feet. He does so, and generally takes off 
as much in one place as in another. The smith then fits 
the shoes level, it is supposed, and the^^ are driven on. The 
horse goes off better, perhaps, for a day or two, then it is 
the same trouble over again. 

Perhaps the horse is high outside, which causes a mis- 
placed position of the bones ; then nature and the smith 
have a tug of war, and the smith generally comes out 
ahead, for, if the horse is not square on his feet, he certainly 
cannot go right. We ourselves cannot travel eas^^ if we 
are traveling all on one side of our shoes, and it is just the 
same Avith a horse, except that the poor beast cannot tell in 
words Avhere the sore spot is, so he takes the only course 
left for him — that is, to limp and hobble along. 

Some owners of horses like to have their horse's feet cut, 
but a very little, especially the frog ; but I have found more 
trouble caused by not cutting enough than by cutting too 
much. Some will sa^^ : *' Cut the wall and not the sole," but 
you will find that b\^ leaving too much sole it will leave 3^our 
frog smaller — that is, it cuts off the supply of blood from the 
frog. Besides, too much frog checks the growth of the sole 
and other parts of the foot. 

How often we find a large, prominent frog and very little 
sole, and that very dry and dead and chippy, no life, not 
enough blood to support and feed it. I like to see all dead 
tissue cut away. Then the live tissue has a chance to grow. 

Of course nature intends the feet to be kept soft. The 
feet of horses that are kept on dry, hard floors, and work 



30 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

on pavements and cliy roads, will get hard and dry. Now, 
I believe thoroughly in stuffing- horses' feet. Some will ask 
what is the best thing- to pack a horse's feet with. Some 
use moss and water, but I don't like it, as I find it makes a 
foot grow ver^^ fast but very thin, and consequently very 
weak. The best thing I know of for keeping the heat and 
fever out and grow a good solid foot is salt or marsh mud. 
If it cannot be got, take oil-meal or flaxseed meal and make 
a poultice. Put it on warm. Use it everj^ night until you 
see a change, which will be before long. You will find that 
it will give your horse a great deal of comfort, besides 
saving a large amount of time which a smith has to spend 
in trying- to trim, when it ought to take only a very little. 
Every horse owner wiio loves a good horse should look 
carefully after this matter, as a smith cannot trim a foot 
properly unless it is in a healthy condition. 

Another important point in trimming is to commence 
early. This week I have seen two young colts trimmed, 
one nine and the other nineteen months old. They w^ere 
both trimmed last fall, and the colt nine months old had 
the most perfect feet. Let a colt run until he is three years 
old, and you not only have imperfect feet, but you have a 
bad colt to shoe where you might have had a lamb for 
gentleness. They should get used to the shop and to having 
their feet handled. I have seen some colts, three and four 
years old, so bad to shoe that it seemed almost impossible 
to do anything- with them. 

Youth is the time when so many colts are spoiled for 
shoeing ever after, for the lesson they learn in the black- 
smith shop when they are young- they never forget. If 
they experience kindness they will not show fear. If the^^ 
meet with abuse, then it is trouble j^ou will get with the 
most of them afterward. I have seen colts, and even old 
horses, all right until they got to the shop, and then they 
were ready for almost anything except what you wanted of 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 31 

them. Don't ever abuse the colt, then you will never have 
to abuse the horse. 

Here is a common incident : John is shoeing a horse, a 
very lively piece of horse flesh. He goes up to him on the 
rush, grabs the leg, and tries to get the foot in a position to 
take the shoe off ; but the first thing he knows he is doubled 
over his box and spraAvling on the floor. The next thing 
he does is to grab a cudgel or his hammer and attempt to 
beat into that horse the idea that he has done something 
wrong, but the horse can't see it in that light. He is all 
ready for fighting now, and every blow John strikes he 
tries to return, but he is tied in such a manner he cannot 
make much return. He jumps from one side to the other 
and thrashes things in general. John thinks he will now 
do just what he tells, him, so he picks up that foot again, 
but the next thing he knows he is trying to stand on his 
head on tlie pile of old shoes. John is very mad now. He 
is going to make that horse stand anyway, if he works all 
day. This time he is a little afraid, so he goes up to that 
horse careful, but the horse doesn't believe in it, and John 
finds that the horse has got the best of him ; he won't be 
coaxed nor petted ; he is mad, too, now, and John gives 
it up, saying, '' He's an ugly beast, and can't be shod." 
Well, that horse must be shod, but John has got all he 
wants of the job. Jack comes along and says: ^^Why 
don't 3'OU rope him, or tie one leg to his jaw?" The horse 
is roped and tied so he cannot kick or plunge without fall- 
ing. The horse stands and the3^ shoe him, but it is hard 
work and takes time and makes men bad-tempered, besides 
spoiling the horse's disposition. 

The next time that horse is shod John isn't around, so 
George takes hold of him. He tries to kick him, but George 
won't let him, but steps up to him and pats him, and tries 
to coax him. The horse says : '^ No, sir; I am all ready to 
fight." But George says: ''I won't fight." So he sends 



32 THE PRACTICAL HOKSESHOER. 

a boy out for a quart of apples, and takes a couple of them 
and gives one to the horse. 

Well, now, that is a surprise party to that beast. He 
doesn't think best to g'ive up yet, so George gets some 
sugar and more apples and gives them to him, and shoes 
Jiim, not without some trouble, but with nothing like what 
John experienced. He says the next time he shoes that 
liorse he wall stand first-rate, and we think he Avill. 

That man is w^orth two like John for work. Customei^s 
that love their horses like to see them used well, and those 
are the men who usually' pay w^ell for having their horses 
shod, and no man ought to have a horse who will abuse it 
himself or allow others to do so in shoeing or an}^ other 
way. 

George was shoeing another horse afterw^ard. He w^ent 
to work and trimmed his feet carefully where the}" needed 
it, and in trimming he found one hmd foot broken and torn 
aw^ay, so he couldn't trim it much. Well, he didn't go to 
work and put on a pair of great heavy shoes which took 
spikes to hold them there, but he got a nice pair of steel 
ones w^hich were lighter and yet stiff and wouldn't bend and 
give way every time the horse started up. Then he fitted 
them up neatl3% and cooled them off when he fitted them to 
the horse's feet, not hot enough to burn anywhere, but just 
to mark for his clip-cutting. Then he filed those shoes, the 
edges especially, so there wouldn't be anything rough to 
cut his legs with. In punching those shoes he did it very 
fine and small, so wiien he got ready to drive them he could 
drive a ver^^ small nail and hold his shoes on until they were 
worn out. He commenced with the toe-nails and Avorked 
back. He didn't work as if he w^ere driving those nails into 
a block of w^ood. He seemed to feel that he could hurt that 
horse if he wasn't careful. When he had them driven on, 
the horse stepped down on that foot as if he liked the shoe 
and knew it w^as put there for his benefit. Then he finished 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 33 

it up, and in filing- under his nails was careful not to Aveaken 
the clinch, but left it just as strong- as he could. In ham- 
mering" the clinches, the nails being small, he didn't have 
to do so much pounding* to get them bedded. He set those 
clinches down with the body of the nail and riveted them, 
not simply bending* them over and hammering* them flat, 
because then the^^ Avould spring* and not bed in the horn, 
and would work loose and show up in a little while, and 
perhaps set the horse to cutting his ankles. Then he filed 
them off smooth, and he had a nice small, strong clinch. 
He didn't use the file or rasp over the whole of that foot, 
but took off the rough horn below the nails, and the place 
where he stepped on his foot with a sharp calk, filing very 
smooth and thin so as to give the foot a chance to grow 
solid and strong* and not keep cracking* all of the time to 
finall}^ end in a seam in the foot half wa}^ round his quarters 
— a bad foot to put nails into. 

Then he got a pair of shoes somewhat wider in the web 
for his forward feet and somewhat heavier. Those shoes 
were concave, so the\^ would not bear on the sole. He fitted 
them hght on the heels. He used about one size larger of 
nails and drove them carefully as with the hind ones, using 
only six nails. He didn't want to tie his foot too tight and 
have the nails too far back on the quarter where it was very 
meaty. He put two clips on these shoes, too, and quarter 
clips which held almost as much as the nails, and kept the 
foot solid, and took the greater part of the strain off the 
nails. 

Great care should be taken to fit shoes level on the feet, 
as it is impossible to keep shoes on tight or long unless they 
are fitted with a bearing all around the wall except the heels. 
A foot may be made to look quite nice hy filing* it all over 
on the outside, but it is not good for the foot. 

Where there is an overgrowth of toe and a very thick wall 
it is always best to thin it down and weaken it^ but it is not 



34 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

SO necessary to do so any farther than up to the hair ; it 
checks the growth of the wall, makes it g-row very thin and 
also very slow. 

Too much cannot be said on the failure of horse owners 
to keep their horses' feet in a growing condition. A foot 
never grows but perishes when allowed to get dry and hard. 
Keep the feet as soft as practicable, and you will keep them 
growing and overcome man3^ difficulties which are not 
thought of in the general line of horseshoeing. — By 
W. B. 

Rules for Horseshoeing. 

There is great diversity of opinion existing among smiths 
with regard to the best method of appl3ang shoes to horses' 
feet. It is my belief that the best s^^stem is that which 
interferes least with the natural functions, position, and ac- 
tion of the feet. I favor a shoe which affords the most pro- 
tection to the foot and yet allows the frog to come in contact 
with the ground. 

No specific rule can be obtained in the general art of shoe- 
ing, for the simple reason that the feet differ very much 
under the conditions of health and disease ; hence a certain 
form of shoe well adapted to meet the requirements of one 
condition might prove positively injurious in another, as is 
often the case. 

It is generally understood that the hoof is sufficiently 
elastic to guard against the jar and concussion which oc- 
cur ever}^ time the horse's feet are planted on the ground. 
This elasticit}', as observed in a healthy and unfettered hoof, 
occurs in downward and backward directions. It is scarcely 
perceptible, yet wisel}^ is it so ordained, for if there was 
much expansibility or lateral motion to the hoof it Avould 
prove ruinous to the foot, and tlie chances of securing a shoe 
to it without positive' injur^'^ Avould be very small. Nature 
has provided this elasticity by leaving the hoof open at the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 35 

heels, between which is interposed a soft, elastic substance 
known as the frog-. 

The parts within the hoof known as the laminae, or leaves, 
articulate with each other, and the extent of their articula- 
tion corresponds Avith the contraction and expansion of the 
hoof, modified, of course, under the influence of partial or 
complete pressure while traveling-. Now, in order to favor 
this ph^'siological action of the foot the nails must not be 
inserted any nearer the heels than the safety of the shoe 
requires ; for should the shoe be nailed all around, as the 
saying is, the hoof, at its solar border, is fettered ; hence 
the action of articulation cannot occur, and the horse soon 
becomes lame. If possible the frog should be allowed to 
come in contact with the ground, for it acts as a pad and 
very much lessens the jar or concussion which otherwise 
must necessarily occur. The nature of the ground over 
which the animal travels determines the form, character, 
and endurance of the frog. Thus in the unshod colt we 
usually, in a healthy foot, find the frog well formed, promi- 
nent, and callous ; this is the result of the stimulating hard 
knocks it receives when traveling. On the other hand, 
should we examine some horses' feet after they have been 
long submitted to the evils of domestication (which include 
faulty shoeing), we shall find that the frog is often imperfect, 
both in function and structure. I would not have any one 
infer from ' these remarks that the blacksmith is always 
blamable for the loss of the frog, etc., for in the winter, 
when the roads are a mass of sleet and ice, calks seem to be 
necessary, and,, under such circumstances, it is almost im- 
possible to bring the frog in contact with the ground ; hence 
it may deteriorate. 

Then, again, there are various diseases of the foot which 
interfere with the integrity of the frog as w^ell as that of 
other parts which enter into the composition of a horse's 
foot. It is the custom of some shoers to cut away the frog*. 



36 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOES. 

There are several reasons why a large portion of the frog 
should not be removed, and I will briefly allude to some of 
them. Ill the healthy frog there is a solid, wedge-like por- 
tion of horn, extending from the cleft to the point of the 
same. It lies directly under that small 3^et ver^^ important 
bone known as the '' navicular." and this bone and its con- 
tiguous tissues often become the seat of a very painful 
disease. This disease often arises in consequence of remov- 
ing the bulbous prolongation termed the anterior point and 
bulb of the frog, the function of which is to protect, to a 
certain extent, this bone and the sensitive parts connected 
with it from the injuries which might otherwise occur Avhen 
the animal is made to travel fast over hard and uneven 
roads. The intelligent shoer is certainly aware that if the 
frog be cut away, so that nothing but the shoe comes in 
contact with the earth, the hody of the animal has little if 
any sole support. Hence arises a strain on the laminae, and 
linall}^ the descent of the sole. 

When preparing the foot in view of applying the shoe, it 
may be proper to remove just about as much of loose and 
rough portions of the frog as the animal might weai* off 
provided he were not shod ; and 3^et, according to the testi- 
mony of eminent authorities, this is not always good policy, 
for these ragged-looking parts usualh^ serve as a protection 
to new formations beneath, and should not be removed until 
the latter are perfected. — By C. A. S. 

Observations on Horseshoeing. 

Is it proper that a horse should be shod ? Ought a man 
to go without shoes because he was born barefooted ? In 
answer to the first question I would say that the labor that 
is imposed upon a horse, and the character of the roadway 
over which he is driven, make it necessarj^ that he should 
be shod for protection to his lioofs. It is a well-ascertained 
fact that on pavement, iron shoe and iron toe, calks are pre- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 37 

ferable, as far as advantage of footing- to the horse are con- 
cerned. The adhesion of iron toe calks is a material advan- 
tage. He is not as liable to slip as when the calks are of 
steel. I speak of roadwa3^s free from ice. The hardened 
nature of steel deprives it of that property of friction which 
soft iron has when coming in contact with stone pavements. 
The slipping of a horse's shoe often strikes sparks upon the 
pavement. Can such sudden slips he favorable to the horse's 
limbs when heavil^^ laden ? Steel is used in the light of 
economy, hut can it he said to he very beneficial to the 
draught horse ? 

The shoeing of a horse, as seen by a casual observer, ap- 
pears to be something or nothing, as the case may be. Let 
us inquire how the smith operates. He appears to be 
sharpening something. Having tried the edge of the knife, 
he is ready to go to work at the horse in waiting. He puts 
his hand upon the horse and pats him, speaking kindly to 
him. Kindness to ahorse is good common-sense on the part 
of either owner or smith. He raises the foot and places it 
between his knees and cuts off seven nails. He appears to 
be looking for something. Now it is found. It was the 
eighth nail he was after. To leave it would have been dan- 
gerous to the foot, consequently' the smith was very eager 
to find it. The shoe is now loosened at the heels and each 
nail is removed separately. He makes a fulcrum bearing 
on the shoe, instead of wrenching it ofi" hy main force by 
putting the pincers under it and pr^ang violentl^^ against 
the sole of the foot. Tliis latter method is very detri- 
mental, especialW to a tender-footed horse. The hind shoes 
are removed, the hoof leveled, and the sole merely cleaned 
oft'. 

The front shoe is next fitted at a low degree of lieat in the 
iron for the sake of convenience, as the metal is tougher 
and also more pliable when slightl}^ warm. As this does 
not burn the hoof, no harm is done. The shoe is clipped in 



38 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

front in order to prevent it from going back. The hoof is cut 
awa}^ in order to let the clip in. Nature has provided for 
the protection of the front of the hoof by locating- a thicker 
crust at that point. The iron clip affords still additional 
protection. 

A corn is observed at the heel of one of the front feet. 
Here is the cause of so much uneasiness in the horse. To 
treat the corn the smith removes the surface as much 
as required, sometimes to a considerable depth, and pours 
spirits of salt on it if bare. In some cases blue-stone, pul- 
verized, is used. Some smiths employ tar, tallow and, cotton 
mixed. Pure pine balsam is a most excellent article for the 
purpose. Relieving the part of pressure where the corn 
appears is the principle aimed at in shoeing. The shoe is 
placed on and the nails are not drawn tight at the side where 
the corn is. 

The peculiarities of horses when brought to be shod are 
observed by the smith. Holding down a horse's tail some- 
times keeps him quiet during the operation. Some require 
a twitch on the upper lip, while others will not stand it 
there, so that it is put on the lower lip. The throwing of a 
bad horse with rings and straps is better than stocking him. 
A horse wlien on the ground lies easily, but in the stocks 
there is a strain that is no ways beneficial to him. 

The paring of the hoof requires some thought. Some 
pare until warned to stop by the sole giving away under the 
knife. This is a gross error. Remove the dead part of the 
sole and no more. An examination of the internal struc- 
ture of the hoof proves most conclusivel.y that the bars are 
for strength for that part that terminates at the heels. 
Open the heels well, not sharp at the extreme part of the 
opening, as if cut with a sharp chisel, bat round at the 
base. Level the crust to that point that experience dic- 
tates. Cut down the toe as much as possible, so as to take 
awa^^ that spreading character that the foot will assume 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 80 

when not properh^ dressed . If the foot is healthy, fit the 
shoe level at all points. If the horse is tender-footed, leave 
the shoe off at the heels a little by bending- it, but not by 
cutting" the heels awa^^ 

Some smiths use a taper piece of iron heated red-hot for 
burning" the hoof at the heels away from the shoe after it is 
in position. This is a most grievous error, and should not 
be countenanced at all. Drive the shoe with the strongest 
nails at the toe and the lightest at the quarter. Cut the 
clinches with sharp pincers. Remove the broken hoof under 
the nails slightly, and clinch with the hammer so as not to 
start the nail back. 

Always use a good-sized clinching iron in preference to 
the large pincers for clinching-. Cut off the projecting- hoof, 
if there be any, with a sharp instrument made for that pur- 
pose. Finish the hoof in a workmanlike manner, with the 
rasp below the clinches, to the size of the shoe. Run the 
corner of the file around the edge of the foot, so as to remove 
the edge. Do not file the clinches too much, as it reduces 
their strength. Finish with the fine-cut side of the rasp, or, 
for fine work, with a fine, hardened file. It is preferable, in 
all cases, to file as little as possible, but there are instances 
where the rasp must be used, and in which the non-filing 
argument is completely set aside. — By C. S. 

A Country Blacksmith on Shoeing. 

Few blacksmiths comprehend what a complicated piece 
of machinery the foot of a horse is. They do not realize 
the fact that one careless blow Avill often stop the working- 
of this machine. Too manj^ smiths when paring the foot 
cut down the heel and give the toe but little attention. I 
can only account for this on the theory that the heel is the 
most convenient part of the foot to work on. This paring- 
of the heel and braces of the foot causes in many instances 



40 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOE]^. 

contracted heels. The heels of a horse should be kept up 
well and the toe should be kept down. By lowering- the 
heel you thrown the entire weight of the horse on the back 
tendons of the legs, and thereby produce lameness from 
over-taxing a very important set of tendons. By keeping 
up the heel you throw the weight upon the wall of the foot, 
and in this position stumbling is generally prevented. 

I say it is wrong to pare the sole of the foot as some 
smiths do. Yery little, if any, paring should be done to 
the sole. The braces should not be pared. All or most of 
the cutting, paring, and smoothing of the fi*og, brace, bars, 
or soles is an injury to the horse, making him less valuable 
to his owner. Nearly all the corns in horses' feet are pro- 
duced by this process of paring. 

The frogs have been placed in the foot by nature to ex- 
pand the wall of the foot, and as soon as 3'ou cut the frog 
the oily substance begins to leak out. The frog dries up 
and becomes hard. The wall gets dry and hard and then 
cracks. I say no man who owns a horse should ever allow 
a bkicksmith to cut the frogs, braces, or soles of his feet. 
I don't think any smith ever saw a contracted foot which 
had a good frog. By throwing the weight upon the frogs 
you force them up between the walls and cause them to 
spread, and I think the only cure for contracted feet is the 
method of assisting nature to gTow a good frog, which in 
turn will act as a wedge, crowding* out the walls, and soon 
contraction will be no more. 

I don't think it right to use a red-hot shoe in fitting ; it 
extracts too much moisture from the hoof. I believe the 
walls of the feet should never be rasped above the clinches, 
and they should be rasped as little below the clinches as 
possible. All rasping and filing on the outside of the foot 
tends to weaken the wall by cutting the fibres of the foot. 

As to how a shoe should be put on, I will just say that in 
all cases you should get the shoe as near the size and shape 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 41 

of the foot as it can be made with the foot and shoe level. 
Always be cai'eful to g'et the foot as sU^aiglit as possible, 
and if it is not perfectl}^ straight be sure and make the out- 
side a little the lowest. Spread the heels as wide as X)0ssib]e, 
set the outside a little under, and keep the toes full. Allow 
me to sa3" also that the foregoing" directions will do in most 
cases, but not in all, there being- a few exceptions even to 
the rules I have given. — By H. S. 



CHAPTER II. 

SPECIAL TOOLS USED BY HORSESHOERS. 

The different devices described and illustrated in this 
chapter have been found useful in many shops and will 
doubtless prove valuable acquisitions to many others. 

Making a Shoeing Hammer. 

In making- the hammer shown in the accompanying- illus- 
trations, I first take a prece of |-inch steel, six inches long^, 



Fig. 5.-Making a Shoeing Hammer by the method of " C . N. S." The Piece of 

Steel used. 

as shown in Fig-. 5, which is then '' stove up," as shown in 
Fig-. 6, then a f-inch hole is drilled in it and worked out with 




Fig. 6.— Showing how the Steel is Shaped. 

an eye punch. I next cut out the slit for the claw and then 
finish with a file. This hammer is better than any that can 
be bought. Fig. 7 represents it completed.—!??/ C. N. S. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



43 



Hoof Pincers. 

I have a pair of hoof pincers that are very hand}'. They 
ure made as shown in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 
8, one side being blunt so that it can rest against the out- 
side of the hoof, and the other side, being made sharp like a 




■Fig. 7.— Showing the Shoeing Hammer Completed. 

knife, so that it will go past the blunt part as in a pair of 
scissors. One of the handles is bent over to prevent the 
fingers being pinched. — By H. R. 




Fig. 8.— A Pair of Hoof Pincers, as made by " H. R." 



Making a Pair of Hoof Trimmers. 

The accompanying illustration. Fig. 9, represents my 
method of making a pair of hoof trimmers or pincers. 

One pair is made thinner than the other, and is beveled 
on one side. The piece A measures 11 inches from the ke^^ 
to the end of the handle. The end of B is turned down so 



44 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



as to prevent the points of the jaws from striking together 
he^^ond the desired joint. The jaws are of good cast steel, 
and are made 1:^ inches wide. The handles are of ^-inch 
iron.— ^// F. X. Z. 

Tool for Clinching Horse Nails. — Rivet Cutter. 

I inclose you a draught of two tools made b}" myself. 
Fig. 10 is for clinching horseshoe nails, and is a very useful 
tool for colts or horses who will not stand hammering on 
their hoofs. I have used it on all horses. The Avhole length 
is 14 inches, and it is all made of iron except at A, which is 
made of iron and steel, and has, at (7, grooves or notches 
filed in it to pull down the clinch, B being under the head 




Fig. 9. — A Pair of Hoof Trimmers, as made bj " F. X. Z." 

of the nail. It should be used in this manner: Prepare the 
nail the same as if you were going to use the hammer and 
iron, then take the tongs and x^ull down the clinch. If 
necessary, you can use the hammer if any of the clinches 
should be a little rough. Then rasp as usual. It is difficult 
to give the exact shape of this tool on paper, but after a 
blacksmith makes one he will soon learn, by trying it on a 
few liorses, the right shape to give it, and would not then 
be willing to do without it. 

Fig. 11 is a tool for cutting rivets and small bolts, the 
ends of which project too far. It is all made of steel. En- 
tire length, 16 inches. A is the cutting edge; ^ is a short 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



45 



lever running' from (7 to Z>, which you will easily" see gives 
power enoug-h to cut off the end of a y^g-inch rivet. The^^ 
can be made any size. This also is a very useful tool. — By 
Rab of the Wynde. 



Bending Horse Nails. — Spring-Pincers. — A Shoeing 

Stand. 
I have been shoeing horses for thirty years and through 





Fig. 10.— Horse Nail Clincher. Fig. 11.— A Rivet Cutter. 

many of these followed the old plan of twisting the nail off 
with the claw-hammer, which always leaves a rough and 
dangerous stub. But about ten ^^ears ago my hammer 
broke and being in a hurr^^ I adopted a new plan with such 
success that I have adhered to it ever since. It is this: As 



46 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

soon as the nail comes through a httle, I pull the point over 
a trifle, then drive the nail up and instead of twisting the 
end I hit it a light blow, wliicli bends it around in the shape 
represented in Fig. 12 of the accompanying illustrations, in 
which the position of the nail is shown before and after 
bending. This leaves it in a safe position to draw down 




Fig. 12.— Bending Horse Nails by the Method of "P. B, G." The Nail Before and 

After Bending. 

and one not dangerous to man or horse. Since I followed 
this plan I have never torn in\^ apron or pants or scratched 
my hands. My customers often wonder why my hands are 
not scarred like those of other smiths. The pincers I use 
are shown in Fig. 13. They have a spring in them which 




Fig. 13.— The Pincers. 



keeps them ahvays open and ready to take hold quicldy. 
Fig. 14 represents a shoeing stand I use. It is a movable 
block with a statt' that has a block of iron at the top to set 
the foot on. This stand makes the job of shoeing easier for 
both man and horse.— By P. B. G. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



47 



Making a Clincher. 

The clincher shown in the accompanying' illustrations is one 
that I have never seen described in an^^ paper. The handles 
are drawn so as to taper both w^ays, because that allows 
them to pass each other easily in drawing* down a clinch. 
The piece B, shown with the fulcrum £' in Fig. 15, is fullered 
so that the nail head can be admitted into the depressions. 




Fig. 14.— The Shoeing Stand. 

There must be a small space left between the keyhole in the 
fulcrum and the jaw, so that B can move up and down. 
Use for the key the point of a nail that has been nipped off 
in shoeing-, bending- it so that it will not come out. If the 
piece A has the proper curve, any clinch can be caught. In 
using the tool it should be pulled up, instead of down, as 
you would the ordinary clinch. 



48 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



Fig*. 15 is a top view of the piece B, Fig\ 16 is a top view 
of C, Fig-. 17 is a top view of A, and Fig. 18 shows the 
clincher completed. — By A. H. H. 



< -;Z—-^ 




Fig. 15.— Making a Clincher by the Method of " A. H. H." Top View of the Piece B. 

Shoeing Box. 
I send herewith a sketch. Fig. 19, of my shoeing box. The 



Den 



ID 



Fig. 16.— Top View of the Piece C 

dimensions are as follows: The height at the hack is 10 
inches ; the length is 18 inches-; the height of the front is 6 



J 



< 3- ^ 



Fig. 17.— Top View of the Piece A. 

inches; the feet are 7 inches ; the width is 10 inches. The 
feet extend the full depth of the box, and the sides and ends 




Fig. 18.— The Clincher Completed. 

are fastened to them by screws. The bail is of half-inch 
iron, fastened by two bolts at each side. A flat piece of 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



49 



iron is nailed around the top to protect the edges of the 
wood. I lay the rasp behind the bail. I like this pattern 
better than any I have ever seen.— By Billy Blacksmith. 




Fig. 19.— Horseslioer's Tool Box. 



Horseshoer's Tool Box. 



The inclosed sketches will, I think, make the construction 
and proportions of two handy shoeing" boxes intelligible. The 




Fig. 20.— One Style of Horseshoer's Tool Box. 

boxes are carried by the hand placed under the till at the 
top. The box shown in Fig. 20 is what may be called a 
double box, while that of Fig. 21 might be termed a single 



50 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



box. Both styles are in request among- slioers, some pre- 
ferring one and some the other. — By K. W. G. 




Fig. 21.— Another Style of Horseshoer's Tool Box. 



Tool Box. 

The inclosed sketches represent a tool box which I have 
used for the past twenty years. I find it very convenient 







Fig. 22.— Perspective View of Horseshoer's Tool Box by " L. H." 



to have the tool receptacle raised from the floor, because it 
bring-s the tools so much nearer the place where they are 
wanted. Fig-. 22 is a perspective view. The dimensions indi- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



51 



cated upon the drawing's, Figs. 23 and 24, show the propor- 
tions I have found most desirable for employment. The 
till at the top of the " deck " is made one inch deep. The 
tool box is made four inches deep. From this brief descrip- 
tion and the accompany h]g sketches I think any one will 
be able to construct such a tool box asw^e countrymen use. 
—By L. H. 

Shoeing Box. 

I send inclosed a sketch of a shoeing box, Fig. 25, which 
has many advantages. The dimensions are as follows : 



r 



-15 inches 



Fig. 23.— Side Elevation of " L. H."s" Tool Box. Scale 1)4 inches to the foot. 



Length, 12 inches ; width, 18 inches, and height 10 inches. 
The small square compartments are for nails, the larger 
space in front of them is for knives, wiiile the other half of 
the upper portion of the box contains ras]3S, hammers, pin- 
cers, etc. The drawer below^, which in the sketch is shown 
partly drawn out, is quite convenient in cases where the 



5^ 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



smith is obliged to go away from his shop to work, as^ for 
instance, to attend to a lame or sick horse. Part of the 
drawer is used for extra sharp knives, and such tools as are 
required upon special occasions, while the other half is used 
for bottles of acids, can of tar, rosin, etc. When the draw- 
er is closed it is held in place by the latch shown in the 
sketch. The feet and strap work on the sides of the box 
are of iron. The handle by which the box is moved is of 



I I 



4 -12-inches-- 




1 



Fig. 24,— End Elevatiou of " L. H/s" Tool Box. Scale V/z inches to foot. 

wood, and is fastened between the irons by two long screws. 
A ferrule is put upon each end of the wooden handle in order 
to prevent its splitting. — Bij Now and Then. 



An Improved Farrier's Box. 

The bottom of a farrier's box should slope up as shown in 
Figs. 2G or 27 in the accompanying illustrations. Then 
tools are within sight and reach, and one is not obliged to 
stoop low nor to feel around for them. Boxes are made too 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



5a 



larg-e. One wants but few tools in them, and these should 
stick out handy to be seen and seized. A square bottom 
causes the accumulation of paring-s and old nails. With 
sloping- sides these can be brushed out without emptying" 
the nail boxes above. — By Will Tod. 

An Improved Rest for a Horse's Foot. 

The accompanying- illustration, Fig. 28, represents a device/ 
for a horse's foot to rest on while the smith draws down the 




Fig. 25.— Horseshoer's Tool Box, contributed by " Now and Then." 

clinches. It is easily made and is a g-reat improvement on 
the old style of foot rests with three legs. To make this 
new rest take first a piece of hardwood plank 28 inches 
long and 12 inches wide. Make a 2x-l: inch hole, three inches 
from the end of the plank, and place in it the upright piece, 
2x4 inches and IS inches long-, as shown in the illustration. 
Make the top of this piece a little rounding*, and run an iron 
brace from the plank to the piece. Make four pins from 
f-inch round iron and drive one of them in each corner of the 



54 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

plank, letting" fcbeni extend out half an inch. These answer 
as legs and prevent the rest from sliding. 

To use the rest put it far enough ahead of the horse to 
make his knee almost straight. The smith stands with one 
foot on the plank and draAvs the clinches on the off side of 
the foot. When the clinches are finished on that side, the 
smith turns to the other side of the foot and completes the 




Fig. 26.— Showing Arrangement of the Bottom of Farrier's Box. 

job. If the horse moves to get his foot awa^^ from the rest 
he must tip it over the long' end, and he cannot do this be- 
cause the smith is standing on this end. The pins prevent 
his sliding the rest along the floor, and the position of his 
foot on the rest is such that he cannot lift it easily, and if 
you bear down his knee, so as to make it remain straight, he 
cannot raise his foot at all— By E. K. W. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



66 



Making a Shoeing Stand. 

1 will try to describe a shoeing* stand, made of wood, 
which is superior to anything- I have ever seen. It will 
save a smith a great many bruises. Fig. 29, of the accom- 
panying illustrations, represents the post with a tenon on 
the bottom 2x2x2 inches. The post at the shoulder is 
3x3 inches and at the top is 2^x2^ inches and 17 inches 
long. The corners may be champfered or not, as thought 
best. Fig. 30 represents the hase, which is 16 inches in 




Fig. 27.— Showing another Form for the Bottom of Farrier's Box. 



diameter, with a mortise in the center 2x2 inches, and four 
grooves in it to receive the braces. The four braces, repre- 
sented by one shown in Fig. 31, are made of l^x^^-inch 
iron bent almost at right angles. Fig. 32 represents the 
stand completed. It requires one dozen ^-inch bolts to 
make it strong, four being 3fx^ inches each, and eight 
2ixj\ inches each. 



56 



ME PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



The woodwork should be made from g*ood seasoned oak 
or other hardwood. The base is made as shown, in order 
that a man can stand on it with both feet. The base is 2 
inches thick b^^ 16 inches in diameter and is grooved to re- 
ceive the brace irons. — By C. E. V. 

A Handy Shoeing Stand. 
I give herewith a drawing, Fig. 33, of a handy shoeing 




Fig. 28.— Improved Foot Rest, made by " E. K. W." 

stand. It is made of three pieces of f-inch square, 2 feet 
long, and spread so that the legs will form an equilateral 
triangle, and be about 16 inches high. The more spread 
the more stable it is. When the horse moves, this stand 
can be kicked about and moved along accordingly. It is 
used for the fore feet only. — By A. H. H. 



ME ' PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



57 



A Tool for Drawing Clips and Sharpening Toe Calks. 

I will endeavor, with the aid of the accompanjing- en- 
gravings, to give 3^our readers an accurate idea of a tool I 
use for sharpening- toe calks and drawing- clips on shoes. 
In making- the tool I first take a piece of 1^-inch square steel 
about 8 inches long-, and draw it out on one end, so that for 
about 3 inches it will fit in the square hole of the anvil. I 



t 



Fig. 29 shows the Post of the Shoeing Stand. 

then hammer it down in the anvil until it is a solid fit, and 
then heat it ag-ain put it in the anvil hole and by ham- 
mering- ag-ainst it bend it square, turning* it to the side of 
the anvil opposite that where I stand. I next take m^^ cutter 
and cut it down, beginning* three-quarters of an inch from the 
side of the anvil, so as to leave a stem about f-inch square 
coming- out from the center of the bottom of the tool. This 
stem is to support the shoe while drawing- on the clip. I 



m 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



then take a half round cutter and cut out a slot at the 
corner of the tool so that the clip can g-o easil}^ in it, and 
the tool is completed. In using- it for drawing clips I weld 




Fig, 30,— The Base of the Shoeing Stand. 

the toe to the shoe, then hold the shoe out on the end of the 
tool, allowing it to rest on the stem, and draw the clip to- 



# 



cjja: 



Fig. 31,— Showing how the Braces for the Stand are made. 

ward me. With this tool I can -draw three good clips in 
the time it usually takes to draw one from the corner of the 
anvil. When the clip is on I stand the shoe endwise on the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



59 



anvil, allowing- the clip to hide in the slot. The shoe being 
backed b^' the tool I place m}^ fuller on the toe and draw it 
down. By following the method I have just described you 
will find it the neatest and easiest way of clipping or 
sharpening. Fig. 34 represents the tool ; A indicates the 
stem, and B is the slot. C is the part made to fit the anvil. 
Fig. 35 shows the method of drawing clips. Fig. 36 illus- 




Fig. 33 —Showing the Shoeing Stand Completed. 

trates how the shoe should be placed when the calks are to 
be sharpened. — By J. J. C. 

Sharpening Calks. 

I will describe my plan for sharpening horseshoes : 
I first take an old axle two inches square, cut it in two in 
the center, and then upset one of the pieces at the end where 



60 



THE PRACTICi\L HORSESHOER. 



it was cut off, so that it is about 3 inches by If inches on 
the end. Then I lay a piece of horseshoe rasp on the end, as 
shown at A in Fig. 37 of the accompanying engravings, and 




Fig. 33.— A Shoeing St£^nd, made by "A. H. H." 

after drawing it to the required shape, as shown at A, Figs. 
37 and 38, 1 bend the piece, as shown in Fig. 37 at B, punch a 
f-inch hole through it at C and D, heat the end where the 




Fig. 34.— Side View of the Tool used for Drawing Clips and Sharpening Toe Calks. 



steel was laid on and harden it so that it will not fly when 
struck with the hammer, which completes this part of the 
job, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



61 




Fig. 35.— Showing the Method of Drawing Clips. 

I then take a piece of iron 1| inches square and about 3 feet 
long", jump a piece of the same size across the end of it as 




Fig. 36.— Showing the Tool as Used for Sharpening Callus. 



62 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



shown at S, Fig-. 39, and upset it to the same length as the 
width of Fig. 38 at ^, which is three inches or an^^ width 
you wish to make it. I then bend it into shape as shown 
at E, Fig. 37, and weld a piece of iron at F, making two lugs 
in the ends of which I punch two g-inch holes ; I fit the lugs to 
the first piece so that the two holes correspond with the hole 
C', then I let the bottom end extend to the ground, as shown 




Fig. 37.— Machine for Sharpening Calks. 

at R, Fig. 37. I next provide myself with a cast-iron wheel 
six inches in diameter by two across the face, and taking a 
piece of iron about four feet long, 2xf inch, bend it edge- 
ways as shown at Fig. 40, and twist the ends as shown in 
Fig. 41, leaving them wide enough apart to go each side of 
the wheel, I then drill a hole in each end as shown at J, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



63 



Fig. 41, and two at iT, Fig\ 41, being careful to place the 
holes at K far enough from the wheel to make that end 
heavy enough to fall at all times. I then put one end on each 
side of Fig. 40 insert the bolt as shown at D, Fig. 39, and 
put a bolt through the wheel and the ends as shown at Fig. 37. 
I next take a block of wood about two feet long and one foot 



f 



u 



Fig. 39. 



Fig. 38. 



\J 



Fig. 40, 

<Hlii 



IK 



Fig. 41 



Fig. 38.— Side View of One of the Parts. Fig. 39.— Side View of the Opposite Part. 
Fig. 40.— Showing the Piece Bent for Attachment to the Wheel. Fig. 41.— Showing 
the Piece ready for Attachment to the Wheel and to the Piece shown in Fig. 39. 



in diameter, and bore a hole in one end of it large enough 
to let the axle end into it and drive it into the block as tight- 
ly as possible. I then dig a hole in the floor of the shop, 
put the block into it and fill it up as solid as possible, 
which completes the job. This arrangement enables me to 
sharpen toes and calkings in half the time required to do it 



64 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



on the anvil. It is also handy as a vise for bending- iron 
in, as it is always ready; all you have to do is to put your 
iron or shoe in the machine and your foot on the lever, aud 
your work is fast until you take your foot off, when the 




Fig. 42.— A Tool for sharpening Toe Calks. 

wheel drops and the jaws open, releasing the work immedi- 
ately.—^?/ A. S. 

A Tool for Sharpening Toe Calks. 

I send a sketch, Fig. 42, of a handy tool for sharpening toe 
calks. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 65 

A represents a piece of round shafting- with steel face at 
top. B represents a block of wood, into which the shaft A 
is let. (7 passes thro ug-h A, at the slot F. The foot piece 




Fig. 43.— Device to Prevent Horseshoes from Slipping on the Anvil. 

is bolted or riveted to C. The steel face is 3J- inches wide 
and slanted, as shown in the drawing. — By Will. 

A Device to Prevent Horsehoes Slipping on the Anvil. 

The following is a good plan to prevent horseshoes from 
slipping on the anvil. I have been bothered in this way for 
years, but last w^inter I took an old anvil and cut three 
creases in it near the hardy hole, as shown in the engraving, 
Fig. 43. This ended all my trouble. It works like a 
charm.— ^i/ S. C. R. 

Getting the Angle for a Horse's Foot. 

The accompanying illustration. Fig. 44, represents the tool 
I use in getting the angle of a horse's foot. The bar or 
pointer is eight inches long-, and one- eighth inch thick. A 



6Q 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



small thumbscrew secures it to the other piece, which is 
made from iron one inch wide and one-quarter inch thick. 
In making it I take a piece twelve inches long-, and then 
another piece, bending the latter into a half circle as in the 




Fig. 44.— Tool used by " A. W. M." for getting the Angle of a Horse's Foot. 



illustration, and then welding together the four ends of the 
two pieces. The method of using the tool is clearl3^ shown 
in the illustration.— jg?/ A. W. M. 



CHAPTER III. 

VARIOUS DEVICES FOR SHOEING UGLY 

HORSES. 

Such a variety of plans for shoeing- unruly horses and 
mules with the least possible risk to the shoer, is presented 
herewith, that a selection may be made, probably, to fit al- 
most all cases. 

Shoeing Vicious Horses. 

I will give my Avay of handling- bad kicking horses in 
shoeing. When I get a horse supposed to be vicious I ap- 
proach him as quietly as possible and notice the eyes and 
the ears, which show as plainly as words, whether he is 
really vicious or onl}' nervous. If vicious, I give him a 
taste of the war bridle, and if that does not work then I 
give him some rope along with the bridle, which is sufficient 
in all cases I ever met yet. I use Prof. Rockwell's war 
bridle sometimes and sometimes Prof. Magner's rope bridle. 
Fig. 45; either will answer. The rope I use is a |-inch one, 
from 21 to 24 feet long. I take a piece of good harness 
leather, 1^-inch wide and 9 inches long, take two y^g-inch 
rings and some copper rivets, and fasten the nngs to each 
end of the strap. I then tie a loop in one end of the ro]3e so 
that it will not slip, and put it around the neck. I put the 
other end of the rope through one ring, then pass the strap 
around the pastern and the rope through the other ring, 
then forward through the loop on the neck, pull the foot 
forward, and I have him — for the hind foot. The front foot 



68 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

he is apt to use in rearing and plunging, so I strap the foot 
up to his arm and then let him plunge till he is ready to 
stand. Then I am ready to go to shoeing. If he is only 
nervous I approach him quietly and cooll}^ ; never under 
an}" circumstances, when I am excited or nervous, as the 
horse knows as soon as you approach him whether you are 
excited or not. Do not talk crossly to him. It is better to 
whistle than to scold him. 

Always be cool, quiet, and firm, never getting angr3\ 
Control yourself and you can control the horse. I have 




Fig. 45— Showing the Device of " J. C. L." for Shoeing a Kicking Horse. 

never had any occasion to use stocks, and in fact never saw 
a horse in them. 

I have been a practical sheer for twentj^-three years and 
have shod some of the wor'st horses in this section of the 
country, but have never failed to shoe one that was brought 
to me, and the^^ have brought them from quite a distance, 
sometimes from as much as ten miles, passing two or three 
other shops on the wa^'. — By J. C L. 

[Note. — In the accompanying illustration our artist has 
drawn the knot loosely so as to show exactl^^ how it is tied. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 69 

Of course in practical use the lower knot is to be drawn up 
tight. The j)roportions in this illustration have been ex- 
aggerated a little so as to make the loops and knots clearer 
to the reader. — Ed.] 

How to Shoe Kicking Horses and Mules. 

I have shod man}' kicking horses in the following wa^^ : 
The horse must have a switch tail — the longer the better — 
to carr}^ out ni}^ plan. I place a stick about a foot long in 
the tail, close to the end of the dock, at B in the illustra. 
tion. Fig. 46, double back the hair upon it, and confine it 




Fig. 46.—" A. C's " Method of Shoeing Kicking Horses. 

with a piece of twine. Then take a long rope and tie it to 
the stick in the tail, winding it round and round till it is 
firm. Then buckle a strap with a ring in it round the 
ankle, just under the fetlock at A. Let jouv assistant pass 
the end of the rope through the ring, and, after going to a 
respectable distance, pull up the foot as is shown in the 
sketch. The horse cannot luirt himself. If he throws him- 
self, slacken up the rope till he gets up, and immediately 
draw his foot up again. He cannot hurt the shoer or lie on 
him. Some one may say, How will you get the rope on the 



70 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

tail or the strap round the ankle ? I have always contrived 
some way to do it, ^"eiierall^^ b}^ holding* up one of the fore 
feet. I once shod a horse in this way, that had been all 
round the county to be shod, and it had been g-iven up as 
impossible to do in an^^ other Avay except to cast him. He 
did not hinder my man more than fifteen minutes, and he 
always shod well afterwards. — Bij A. C. 

[As it would be impossible to shoe a kicking horse having 
a short tail b^^ the method described by "A. C," the 
following is suggested : 

With a long rope form a sort of collar, as at A in the en- 




Fig. 47.— Another Plan for Shoeing Kicking Horses. 

graving, Fig. 47, then let the rope pass between the fore 
legs at C, and stopping at B, pass over and around the 
body, and tie at B. Join another rope at E, with braces on 
each rump, as shown in the illustration*. A similar strap 
to the one used by *^ A. C." could be buckled around the 
ankle at D, and the rope leading from E, passed through 
the ring in the same manner as suggested b}^ ^'A. C." 
Afterwards proceed as ^' A. C." has described above. — Ed.] 

To Shoe Unruly Horses and Mules. 

I give, for the benefit of others, my plan of shoeing 
wild horses, after nearl}^ eighteen years' experience on 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



11 



the Pacific Coast. We emplo^^ various methods, but the 
one I am about to describe answers the purpose very 
well. 

To shoe an unruh^ horse, take a leather strap three feet 
long", made like a hame strap, with a loop on the inside; 
pass it around the fetlock; put the end of the strap throug-li 
the loop and draw it up close around the fetlock, as shown 
in the sketch. Fig-. 48, at 1. Take up the foot b}^ the strap 
and buckle the strap around the fore-arm, as at 2. The 
horse is now compelled to stand on three legs. Drive on the 




Fig. 48.— Plan for Controlling Vicious Horses. 

shoe and clinch it in this position, unless b}^ this process he 
has become gentle enough to allow you to unbuckle the 
strap and take his foot and clinch it up in front. When 
done change the strap to the other side and shoe the other 
foot. To shoe the hind foot, take a rope (3^our own judg- 
ment will suggest the length and thickness), tie a knot on 
the end and another knot far enough from the end to pass 
around his neck. Pass the knot on the end through the 
other knot and tighten up the latter so that the end knot 



T2 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOEtl. 



cannot slip out. Take the other end of the rope and go 
behind j^our horse and make him step over the rope with 
his hind foot. Carry the rope around to his neck and pass 
the end through the rope at 3 ; draw up his foot by the 
rope till it nearly leaves the ground ; fasten it by taking a 
half hitch around both the ropes at 3. Now tie a string- 
around both ropes, to keep them together, and slide it dowm 
close to his fetlock. Next fasten a ring on a hame strap 




Fig. 49.— Device for Shoeing Ugly Horses. 



and buckle the strap around the fetlock, under the rope ; 
tie a rope in the tail, pass it through the ring alluded to, 
and pull on the rope at 4. This will raise his foot in a posi- 
tion to shoe it without danger to either the horse or the 
smith, as the man who holds the rope can set down the foot 
and take it up at pleasure. When the shoe is driven on, 
either clinch it pulled back or loosen the rope at the neck 
and draw it up till the foot comes in a position to clinch it 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



Ti 



in the usual way. The horse can^t kick you. A little prac- 
tice will enable the shoer to shoe bad horses or mules with- 
out danger. — By Old Roper. 

How to Shoe Kicking Horses and Mules. 

I have always found the following' to be a safe and easy 
wa3^ to shoe unruly" horses or mules. Take a rope 1:^ inches 
thick, and splice a loop on one end of it large enough to 
allow the other end of the rope to pass through and work 




^■^. 



Fig. 50. — Shoeing a Kicking Mule. 

in it with ease. When you have a kicking horse to shoe, 
lay this rope on the floor, and open out the noose so as to 
take in the foot which 3^ou want to shoe. Then draw the 
noose up tight around the fetlock at A, as shown in the ac- 
companying illustration. Fig. 49. Pass the rope between 
the fore legs at B, and up and over the neck at C. Now 
let some man who will not drop the rope every time the 
horse moves, hold it at the end D, and if the shoer gets 
hurt it will be his own fault, for there is no necessity of 



Y4 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER 

holding- the foot more than to keep it steady after it is 
drawn up from the floor with the rope. Tliis is my plan, 
but there may be other better ones. In shoeing- the fore 
feet, the shoer must hold and manage the animal the best 
way he knows how. — By Southern Yankee. 

Shoeing a Kicking Horse or Mule. 

I have had considerable experience in shoeing- kicking 
mules and horses, and accordingly inclose a sketch. Fig. 50, 
to illustrate my method in such cases. I take two pieces of 
spring- steel If inches wide, and long enough to make a good- 
sized pair of hames, bend them to lit a collar and punch holes 
in the top to let a strap pass through to fit different sizes of 
collars. I then take a piece of iTV-incli iron or steel, 6 inches 
long, rivet it on the flat side of the hame, bend in a circle 
to clear the collar, and shut a D ring in the ends, one on 
each hame — as shown in the engraving annexed. Tie in 
the ring a strong |-inch rope on the side opposite to where 
you are to work; pass this rope around the fetlock to the 
other ring, and tie to suit yourself. Hook an open link on 
the ropes so the animal cannot get his other foot through 
them, and you have him. When you raise the foot to drive, 
the rope will be tightened, and he cannot kick you either 
in driving or clinching. — By W. W. K. 

Device for Shoeing Vicious Horses. 

I will describe ni}^ patented device for shoeing vicious 
horses, as shown in the accompanjung illustration. Fig. 51. 
The sheave net under the tail has a latching wedge which 
clutches the rope at any place Avhere it is desired to do so. 
The leg can be taken backward or forward at the will of 
the shoer, and the horse is held secui'el^^, for no amount of 
struggling and kicking can enable him to get his foot down. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



T5 



The foreleg's are held b^^ a strap and snap which snaps into 
a ring- on the foot. The hindfoot is raised by standing be- 
hind the horse and pulling the rope. The wedge is con- 
trolled b}^ a small rope running- parallel with the other and 
attached to the wedge. — By A. F. Trask. 

Shoeing a Kicking Horse. 
In managing kicking horses I use a rope about twenty 




Fig. 51.— Device of A. P. Trask for Shoeing Kicking Horses. 

feet long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and 
having at one end a loop which I put around the horses' 
neck like a collar but loosel3^ Holding- the other end I get 
behind him, let him step over it, then bring the end up to 
the loop and take a turn or two around it so that it will 
slip easil3% and I can then draw the hind leg off the ground 
as shown in Fig. 52. When I begin to handle his foot I 
draw the rope quite tightly and if he plunges around too 
much I let it down a little. 



^6 



THE PRACTiaAL HORSESHOER. 



I have followed this plan for thirty years, have never 
failed to succeed in shoeing- a horse, and have never re- 
ceived a scratch in doing- the job. — By J. B. G. 

Shoeing a Vicious Horse. 

The accompan^^ing engraving, Fig. 53, represents a yqyj 
good method of shoeing a vicious horse. If followed the 
plan will enable the smith to shoe any horse without putting 
him in the stocks. The method is as follows : 




Fig. 5:2.— Shoeing a Kicking Horse. 

Get a leather strap, two inches wide and four feet in 
length, with a good buckle on one end. Try it first on a 
gentle horse. The cut shows how it is put around the fet- 
lock. Put the strap around the fetlock before raising his 
foot. You then raise his foot, and have some one draw the 
strap through the buckle as far as possible. Now buckle it 
and let his foot down. You must repeat this operation on 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



77 



a gentle horse until you know just how it is used. Be sure 
you have the strap the right way around the fetlock before 
raising his foot. 

When you come to try it on a vicious horse, first take off 
the harness, and put a rope around his neck in such a way 




Fig. 53.— Shoeing a Vicious Horse by the Method of " E. K. W." 

that it will not choke him. Talk kindlj^ to him, and avoid 
all excitement around the shop. Rub and pat his hind legs 
down to his feet. Try and raise his foot, bub don't hold 
him, let him down. Repeat the same until he allows you to 
keep his foot up a few minutes. Always shoe a bad horse 



78 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

first on his hind feet. Now put the strap around his fet- 
lock. Be very careful not to g"et him excited. Put the end 
through the buckle before raising his foot. Now 3^ou g-en- 
tly raise his foot up, and have your man at the same time 
draw^ the strap through the buckle as tig'htly as possible. 
Now buckle it and put the end of the strap under the leather 
loop. Now let him down — don't be uneasy about him get 
ting hurt. Let him fight until he will let 3^ou handle his 
foot. Now put the shoe on and complete the job before let- 
ting his foot down. If he will not allow you handle his feet, 
walk him around in the shop on three legs. He will get so 
tired that he will stand better than any gentle horse will. 
On the other foot you will not have so much trouble, and 
after 3^ou get used to it you can put the strap on alone in 
two minutes. Use it only on bad horses and on those that 
try to jerk away from jon, for it will not hurt them, and it 
will not take so much time to do the job. And best of all, 
you will not endanger your life by being jerked all over the 
shop.— 5^ E. K. W. 

Stocks or Swings for Shoeing Kicking Horses and Mules. 

We have a swing Avhich we made for shoeing kicking 
mules and horses, and it works to perfection. It can be 
kept in any shop, and when not wanted will not be in the 
wa3^ We keep ours over the shoeing floor. The swing has 
no frame against which a horse might strike and be bruised. 
The cost of this swing is not more than ten or tw^elve dollars. 
The belts or aprons are made of heavy canvas, and it is 
better to double the canvas. 

Fig. 54, of the accompanying engravings, represents the 
breast belt, A. It is 10 inches Avide and 4 feet long, with a 
ring fastening each end, the chain in each ring being 12 
inches long. On one side of this belt, about four inches 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



T9 



from the center, is riveted a strap 1| irjcli wide and 3 feet 
long", and about four inches from it on the same side there 
is riveted a buckle larg-e enoug-h to receive the strap. This 
strap g'oes around the neck of the horse like a collar. On 
the other side of the belt and in the center another buckle 




Fig. 54.— A Swing for Shoeing Kicking Horses. The Breast Belt. 

is riveted, which is larg"e enough to receive a strap 2 inches 
wide. The belt B, shown in Fig. 55, is 22 inches wide and 
4 feet long, and the four chains riveted to each corner are 12 
inches long. Two straps are liveted on this belt in the center, 
one on each side. The straps are each 2 inches wide and 18 



80 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



inches long-. One of them goes between the front leg's and 
hackles in a huckle on belt A, and the other goes between 
the hind legs and buckles on belt C, shown in Fig. 56. This 
belt is 6 inches wide and 4 feet long, and has rings and 
chains like those on belt A. It has also a buckle in the 
center. 




Fig. 55.— The Belly Belt. 

In Fig. 57 the swing is shown in position on a horse. L 
in the engraving denotes a pulle^^ wheel about 4 feet in di- 
ameter, with a groove in it large enough to allow a f-inch 
rope to be wound around it five or six times. K is a shaft 
about 6 inches in diameter and 5 feet long. The wheel L is 
fastened to this shaft with a gudgeon of 1^-inch iron. H, H^ 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



81 



are |-inch ropes which pass around the shaft. The length 
of these ropes depends upon the height of the smitli's shop. 
G, Gy G, G, are four rings, to which are attached eight 
small and very short hooks. These rings are to be fastened 
to the ropes H, H. M is the rope which turns the wheel L. 



Fig. 56.— The Buttock Belt. 

This rope should have a guide so that it will not run off the 
wheel. 

The belt B has also two small f-inch ropes attached to it. 

To use the swing, first blindfold your horse, then tie him 

SO he cannot break loose. Next lay the belt B on the back 




Fig. 57— Showing the Swing in Position and Ready for Use 9 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. SS 

of the horse, pass the small ropes on this belt under the 
horse and fasten them to the rings on the other end of the 
belt, t^ing- them so that they will allow the belt to slip 
around to the place shown in the engraving. Then i^ut on the 
belt A, buckling one strap between the forelegs, adjusting 
the chains as shown in the illustration. Sometimes another 
strap is attached to this belt and then passed around the 
animal's neck. The chains on belt A pass through the front 
rings on belt B. Belt C is j)laced on the animal as shown. 
One end of this belt is tied with a small rope to the back 
ring in belt B. On the other side of C have a rope about 
8 feet long and draw this rope through the back ring in 
belt B, and then slip the belt down. This rope should 
be long enough to prevent the horse from kicking you. 
When he tries to kick it must be pulled tight. The next 
thing to do is to pass the chains through the back rings 
on belt A, but 3^ou need not hook the chains on belt B to 
the hooks on G, G, unless the horse is a very large one. 
If possible buckle the strap behind the hind legs before 
swinging the horse. 

In shoeing the front feet I use a knee strap. In working 
on tlie hind feet I tie a rope to the tail and buckle a strap 
around the fetlock. This trap has a ring through which I 
pass the rope N. Your man can hold this rope, or you can 
tie it to anything that is convenient. With this rope you 
can hold the foot so that 3^ou can work on it with ease. 
Sometimes I put one end of a rope around the fetlock of the 
other hind leg, bring the other end of the rope up around 
the neck and tie it. This will prevent kicking. It will raise 
2,000 pounds if well built.— 5^ D. & K. 

Stocks for Kicking Horses. 

My method of making stocks for shoeing kicking horses 
is illustrated in the accompanying engraving, Fig. 58, in 



84 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOES. 



which B B represents the sills, 8x8 inches and 10 feet long*; 
A A are the ties, 4x4 inches and 10 feet long-; C C C C are the 
posts, 6xQ inches and 9 feet long. The crossties connecting 
C C C Care 4x6 inches and 3 feet long. The platform E fits 
loosely in the frame. F F are the belts on which the horse 
is hung ; G G are cranks by which the platform is raised 
and lowered ; H H are ropes which connect the roller and 
the platform. The frame is made of solid wood. One of 
the cranks is fastened solidly and the other is made so that 




Fig. 58.— Stocks for Shoeing Kicking Horses. 

I can take it out to let the horse in. When I get the horse 
in I tie him with two straps so that he cannot move his 
head from one side to the other. I then raise the platform, 
carrying him with it, of course, as high as I desire ; the 
straps F are then hooked over the pins shown in the en- 
g-ravings. These pins are placed to suit any convenience. 
I take two belts, put a ring in each end of each belt, and 
add four or five links to the end as indicated in the engrav- 
ing, and when the horse is high enough, I hook the links of 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



85 



the pins and let the platform drop. The horse can then he shod 
with ease. In this way I have shod horses that could not 
be handled by any other plan. To make the belts I take 
two, each eig'ht inches wide, which makes the belt 16 inches 
wide, and it is to be remembered that the wider the belt is 
the better.— Bij N. P. S. 

Stocks for Shoeing Ugly Mules and Horses. 

This stock consists of lig'ht wood posts put well dow^n in 
the ground. These posts are 12 feet long, 8 feet high, and 




Fig. 59.— Stock for Shoeing Ugly Mules. 



are set about 2^ feet apart and secured by plates at top, as 
shown in illustration, Fig. 59. To the cross piece, 1, is at- 
tached the belly -piece, or band, 5. No. 2 is the roller, to 
which is attached the belly-band. Nos. 3 and 4 are the levers 
for winding up the roller. When wound to the required 
height it is held in place by permitting one end of the lever 
to strike against the plate, as shown. Two holes should be 



S6 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

mortised through the roller, at rig-lit angles to each other, 
for the accommodation of the levers. Nos. 6 and 7 are 
movable pieces, which are only in use while the mule or 
horse is being secured. Then they are detached and laid 
aside, to give the w^orkman free access to the feet 
of the animal. At No. 8 two ropes are represented 
which hold the hind feet while the shoes are being fitted 
and nailed to the forefoot. If not fastened back the animal 
is apt to strike forward w^ith his hind feet in his desperate 
efforts to free himself, and perhaps endanger the shoer. 
At No. 9 is showm a rope which encircles the neck and is 
made fast to a cross-piece, as shown in the cut, and its ob- 
ject is to keep the animal from rearing up. No. 10 is a 
breast strap which keeps the animal from jumping forward. 
No. 11 is a rope which goes over a roller and down to 
another roller, to which it is made fast. This latter roller is 
provided with a crank b}^ Avhich your mule can be drawn 
into the stocks if he objects to going. This rope serves to 
hold his head up out of the waj^, and defeat any sinister 
purpose the animal may have of using his teeth on the 
shoer. When I get them into this stock they are safe. I 
can shoe the w^orst mule or horse that can be produced in 
perfect safety. I have been engaged in shoeing horses and 
mules for 25 years, and have never failed to shoe anything 
that came to me. Of late, however, I don't fancy being 
jerked about by ugly mules. In my young days I didn't 
want any better fun than .to g-et hold of a wild horse or 
mule.— By T. J. Palin. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 8Y 



CHAPTER IV. 

PREPARING THE FOOT. HOT OR COLD 
FITTING, WHICH? 

The advocates of each S3^stem of fitting- are numerous, 
but the weig'ht of evidence seems to be in favor of cold fit- 
ting*, in theor^^, and more or less hot, in practice. The 
writer has seen shoers who were, so to speak, warm de- 
fenders of the cold method, employ in actual practice, heat 
enough to mark the surface of the foot so as to indicate 
where tlie high spots were. They would permit the shoe to 
touch the foot only for an instant and the heat in the iron 
w^ould only be sufficient to slightly discolor the hoof. 

Preparing the Horse's Foot for the Shoe. 

I desire to make a few remarks on the pi'oper methods of 
preparing the horse's foot for the shoe. I have had con- 
siderable experience — fifteen j^ears as farrier-major in the 
British Army, and about thirty years in New York City 
and State — and should, therefore, know whereof I speak. 

There are many who think differently from me on the 
points I shall touch upon, but m3^ long and varied experi- 
ence has proven my views to be correct — to my own satis- 
action. 

In the first place, a horseshoer must understand a little 
of the anatomy of the horse's foot ; he must understand 
the position and composition of those parts of the foot with 



88 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



which he has to deal ; he must know how far the sensitive 
membrane of the frog" and sole extends, so as to be able to 
judge when and where to cut, and where to drive the nails 
in adjusting the shoe. It is not necessary that he should 
have a thorough scientific knowledge, but just enough to en- 
able him to understand the ^^ art of horseshoeing." It is 
for want of even a little of this knowledge that so many 
horses are crippled and rendered useless. 
A great many horseshoers think nothing of these points. 




Fig. 60.— Sectional View of the Foot. 



but undertake to shoe horses imagining that they have 
only a hard block of horn to cut at, burn away and destroy 
without inflicting an^^ injury to the foot, and that nothing is 
necessary but to make the foot look as " fanciful " as pos- 
sible (to the great injury of the foof ) — anyway, as long as 
th(^ horse is shod and no fault found. 

Now, this we know (or, at least, ought to know), is not 
right. We cannot shoe properly unless we have at least a 
little knowledge of the nature of the foot. 

I introduce here a cut. Fig. 60. showing a sectional view 
of the foot in its natural condition ; A is the wall of the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOEK. SO 

hoof, B is the horny frog", C is the sensitive membrane of 
the frog-, D is the sensitive membrane of the sole, E is the 
sensitive laminae,^ -.nd F is the plantar cushion (or sensitive 
frog). 

It can been seen by a g-lance at the cut where so many 
mistakes are made in shoeing- horses, either by driving- a 
nail into the part mai^ked E, when it becomes inflamed and 
causes g-reat pain, and will often cause the horse to g'o 
lame, or b}^ cutting- away at the frog- until they strike the 
sensitive part marked F, when the frog- will soon waste 
away and smell bad, causing- navicular disease. 

Now, my idea of preparing- a foot for a shoe is not to cut 
away the sole ; merel^^ leveling- it off with the rasp, and re- 
moving- any splinters or loose pieces, and shortening- the 
toe ; and not cutting- away any of the frog-, but merely re- 
moving- any rough or string-y pieces. 

Do not cut the sole away until you can spring- it with your 
thumbs, for if you do you will take away the only protec- 
tion the foot has ag-ainst rough roads and inclement 
weather. You will wonder why the horse is lame and rest- 
less on his feet (even in the stable). It is because you have 
cut too much of the sole away. This is a g-reat mistake 
man}^ horseshoers make, who, imagining they cannot hurt 
the foot by trying to make it look nice and clean, sometimes 
cut untilthe blood comes. This is wrong ; as the sole is the 
natural protection for that part of the foot, it must be left 
as near its natural condition as possible, thereb}^ saving the 
foot from contraction ; for it is quite rensonable, if a^ou cut 
out the sole you weaken the sides, causing- them to draw 
in. 

Do not cut away the frog until you have struck the quick 
or sensitive frog — you might as well cut the skin from the 
sole of your own feet and tr^^ to walk on rough roads, or 
wear rough shoes without stockings. Let it remain in its 



90 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



natural condition, let it touch the ground; do not tvy to 
make it loolv neat \>y cutting awa^^ a most valuable sup- 
porter of the foot and leg, causing the hoof to lose its 
proper shape at the heels. 1 contend that the frog must 
touch the ground in order to fulfill its dut}^ to support the 
foot and prevent contraction, for while it does there can 
be no contraction, and it is the only remed}^ for contrac- 
tion. 

Do not open up the heel, as it is Avorse than cutting away 
the frog — it is a support for the heel, and if cut out it causes 
a weakness of the walls of the hoof and will cause contrac- 
tion of the heel. Merely shorten the toe and level the foot 
and proceed with fitting the shoe. — By J. R. 

Dressing the Foot. 

One of the great and most important features of horse- 
shoeing is the dressing of the foot. In performing this 




Fig, 61.— Showing Foot ready for fhe Shoe. 






operation it is first very important that the tools emploj^ed 
in paring be in good condition. It is hardly necessarA^ to 
say that judgment is required, as some feet grow more rap- 
idly at the toe and others at the heel. Remove the dead 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



91 



hoof from the sole of the foot, being" very particular to let 
the frog" bars staiid on either side ; then remove the horn of 
the foot, and rasp down level. Do not pare the frog', for if 
3^ou do the tendei' parts will be exposed, and it will soon be- 
come very hard and unhealth}^ and cause the foot to con- 
tract. In Fig. 611 have endeavored to show a foot read}' 
to receive the shoe. 

Another important matter is the fitting*. The shoe should 
in every instance be fitted to the foot and not the foot 1 o the 
shoe. Heat the shoe so that in apphing it will mark the un- 




Fig. 63.— Showing Best Position for Nails. 



even surface (if any there be), which should then be removed. 
Do not heat it red-hot and burn the foot down level, as that 
renders the horn very brittle. Having the shoe fitted, it is 
now ready to be nailed on. The nails should be given a 
good hold in the sound hoof. The heel nail on the front foot 
should be driven the lowest ; the second a little higher ; the 
third and the fourth also a little higher than the preceding 
ones, as indicated in Fig\ 62. 

The shoe being driven on, the next important point is to 
draw the nails tightly to prevent the clinches from raising 
above the foot and the shoe getting loose. After this has 



92 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

been done, the foot is ready to receive the finishing- touches, 
which should be performed in a neat manner by filing" the 
clinch thin and turning doAvn, care being taken not to file 
a gutter under the clinches. I have often seen a foot that 
deex3 gutters have been filed in crack open and shell off. 
After the clinches have been turned down, rasp off the 
superfluous hoof even with the shoe, but be careful not to 
rasp above the nail. — By Toe Knife. 

Preparing- the Foot for Shoeing — Interfering — Forging — 
Hot and Cold Fitting — Split Hoofs. 

I am a practical horseshoer and not a writer. What I 
have to offer is from experience. 

In an article like this I cannot enter into the anatomy of 
the horse's foot, even if I had a profound knowledge of it, 
w^hich I confess I have not. 

On a fooT; that is about to be shod it is necessary to re- 
move the horn to a level with the sole at its outer margin 
at the toe, and at the heels low^ enough to obtain the de- 
sired angle, Avhich varies considerably^ in different horses. 
It should be kept as near the natural condition as ijossible. 
The sole should not be touched with knife or rasp as a 
general practice, and it may be made to support a part of 
the horse's weight by having the shoe rest on a portion of 
the sole equal to the thickness of the wall. The frog should 
never be touched with a knife, except to remove pieces that 
may have become partly detached b^^ exfoliation and remain 
flapping on the foot. In such cases, it is better to remove 
these loose pieces, as the foot is very sensitive to the- 
touch. 

A shoe adapted to the foot should be selected, and it 
must be fitted as accurately as possible, and not, as is often 
practised by shoers, fitted by making the shoe a little small- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 93 

er, and rasping the foot to fit the shoe. This is one of the 
worst habits of shoers, and is undouhtedl}^ the cause of nine- 
tenths of the hard, brittle feet we meet with. 

The reason for this is plain. The hoof is covered with 
an epidermis or cuticle of silicious material which, when 
destroj^ed, enables the moisture naturally contained in the 
hoof to evaporate too rapidl}^, causing* the hoof to become 
hard, dr3^ and brittle, and with a little help from a faulty 
shoe, such a foot is eventually likely to enter that state of 
wide-spread deformit^^ styled contraction. 

The shoe should be attached with as small nails as prac- 
ticable, and as few as will be sufficient to retain it, never 
nailing far back on the inside quarter, so as to allow the 
heels to expand. Some shoers are in favor of punching the 
holes in such a position that the nails may be driven through 
the middle of the wall, but I obtain a firmer hold, with less 
liability to fracture the wall, by starting the nail at the 
inside of the wall, and driving it obliquely upward and 
outward. 

The nail should be of the best material, should fit snug 
in the shoe, and the clinches should be short and well ham- 
mered down. 

Interference is a ver3^ common anno3^ance,but easily pre- 
vented if the cause is properl^^ understood. Intei^fering 
may almost always be prevented by removing the portion 
of the shoe which does the injur3\ This may be ascertain- 
ed b3^ applying a boot covered with paint, and trotting the 
horse until a part of the paint becomes attached to the op- 
posite shoe, which will show the exact spot which does the 
mischief. Some horses have malformation of the legs, 
which predispose them to interfere. I have cured some 
such horses by rasping the outside quarter back to the heel 
quite thin, but never resort to this plan when I can substi- 
tute another^ as it is apt to weaken the quarter and alter the 



94: THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

gait of the horse. One side of the foot should never be 
raised higher than the other, on account of the undue strain 
which will be brought to bear upon the ligaments, and the 
natural pressure upon the blood vessels and secretor^^ ap- 
paratus upon the highest side prevents them from perform- 
ing their natural functions, and another evil may be devel- 
oped as bad as interfering. 

Forging is a very annoying habit which may be prevent- 
ed by making the web of the front shoe narrow and sloping 
the edge of the toe off, tlie hind shoe backward when calk- 
ings are not employed. Forging is caused by the edge of 
the hind shoe striking against the inner edge of the front 
shoe as the hind foot is descending to its place, and when 
the front foot is raised and about to be carried forward. 
The method indicated will allow the front part of the hind 
shoe to strike the sole or frog of the front foot and obviate 
the noise or chck. It may also be prevented by using 
w^eighted shoes. Calkins are a benefit to the shoe but are 
objectionable for the foot. They cause the shoe to w^ear 
longer, and will secure a surer footing for a draft horse on 
some kinds of ground, but their recommendation ends there. 
The greatest objections I have to calkins is the distance 
which they remove the frog from the ground. The frog in 
its natural condition is almost on a level with the lower 
edge of the wall, and helps to sustain the weight of the horse, 
which would otherwise be borne by the laminae which con- 
nects the coffin bone to the wall. With calkins the laminae 
can sustain the weight, but the frog cannot perform its 
functions. When the frog can come in contact Avith the 
ground it acts like a spring, preventing concussion, and 
when pressed hard it expands the foot. Calkins further- 
more increase the leverage and impose unnecessary strain 
on the nails, and should not be employed when they can be 
dispensed with. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 95 

Hot and cold fitting's both have tlieir advocates. I am 
entirely" in favor of hot fitting" ; red hot, and not a black 
hot. After the shoe is fitted, lieat it red hot and press it to 
the foot and remove it instantly ; if there are any inequal- 
ities they appear, and should be removed ^Yith a rasp, and 
the shoe ag-ain pressed to the foot as before, until a perfect- 
ly level bearing- is obtained. A hot shoe apj)lied for two or 
three seconds to the foot cannot injure it, as it only affects 
the part presented for wear and tear, and that in a ver}^ 
beneficial manner b3^ hardening* it, and rendering it less 
liable to the action of moisture. A more accurate bear- 
ing- can be obtained by hot fitting- than b}^ an^^ other 
method. A small, narrow clip, judiciousl}^ placed, is desir- 
able for roadsters. 

The manner in which I treat split hoof with the best suc- 
cess is as follows : I make a shoe rather wider in the web 
than usual. Then draw" up a solid clip inside of the extreme 
ends of the branches so as to fit on the inside of the bars ; 
punch a nail hole in the end of each branch, then weaken 
the shoe directly under the split. If the split be at the toe, 
a clip may be placed on each side of the toe. Clean out the 
split with some small instrument, and nail on with strong- 
nails, not driven too tight at the heels. Then spread the 
shoe until the crack is nearly closed. It will not require 
much spreading, as the shoe will bend directly under the 
split. No cutting or burning should be done, but some stim- 
ulating ointment that would keep the skin soft, applied to 
the coronet would be beneficial. 

Shoes of all horses cannot be the same, and it is hard to 
recommend any certain form of shoe to be used generally. 
A shoe should be as light as the nature of the horse's labor 
will admit. A heavier shoe cannot possiblj^ benefit the foot, 
and it imposes a vast amount of unnecessar}" labor upon the 
animal; far more, indeed, than we are apt to suppose, 



96 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

until we observe how often a horse raises his feet in a g-iv'en 
time. Then by multiplying- that by the weight of the shoe, 
one can see what an enormous weight is raised b^^ a horse 
in a few hours' travelir.g and that, too, in a very disadvan- 
tageous manner, it being raised as with a lever, with the 
weight on the long end. — By J. C. Buck. 

The True Way to Shoe Horses. 

While there have been great improvements in almost 
everything else during the past quarter of a century, I have 
noticed little, if an^^ improvement in horseshoeing. 

I started to learn the blacksmith's trade in 1858, and have 
never done anything else. I claim to be expert at all kinds 
of carriage-work and horseshoeing. Some people sa3^ that 
a carriage-ironer cannot know how to shoe a horse. I can 
give 3^ou the names of hundreds of our best citizens who 
will testify to my capacity as a liorseshoer, and after you 
have read about my method you can judge for yourself. 

For the past eighteen years I have been constantly shoe- 
ing horses, and have learned the Avays of several States and 
Canada, and I assert positivel,y that there is only one way 
to shoe a horse so that he Avill travel eas}^ and at the same 
time keep the hoof sound. Some may sa}^ that all horses 
cannot be shod in the same wa3% but I claim they can. 
Allow me to describe the method I use, and I believe 3^ou 
will agree with me in the statement just made. If the fol- 
lowing instructions are carefull^^ followed the result will be 
satisfactory in every case. 

First, I take a good sixteen-inch rasp and rasp down the 
foot level, watching that the heels are not cut down too 
low. After the foot is trimmed to the proper shape, I use a 
knife to smooth it, and never cut the braces of the foot, for 
they are the strength of it ; and nevex^ use the knife on the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 97 

frog, for it is the heart of the foot. Tlie frog- sheds off once 
in two or three months, when tlie foot is in a health^^ con- 
dition. The frog- is intended for a cushion, and the larger 
it is the better. When a horse trots he alwa^^s strikes the 
heels to the ground first, and if he has a large frog exposed 
to strike first it will naturall^^ lessen the jar to the leg, and 
operate to keep the heels weU spread. On the other hand, 
if the frog is cut out, what is left becomes dry, so dr}^ that 
it cannot be cut with a knife, and the heels shrink to- 
gether. 

After having trimmed the feet, as I have stated, to the 
proper size, I select a shoe just large enough to cover tho 
foot, and then shape it to tit. Applying it to the hoof, I 
watch that the hoof is scorched onl}^ just enough to show 
the unevenness of the foot, and then with a rasp or knife 
smooth true. In this way I never fail to fit a shoe propei'ly. 
If the shoe is fitted correctly, the heels are alwaj'S well 
spread out. If^ the shoes are too long the heels will be 
drawn together, and the foot, being thus pinched, becomes 
contracted, and results in a lame horse. 

Next, the shoes should always be concaved on the fore 
feet. Never put hind shoes on the fore feet. The shoe 
should bear only on the outer rim of the hoof, and watch 
that it bears equally all around, and not simpl^^ on the toe 
and heel. If these directions are followed, the horse will 
never be troubled with lameness in the feet, caused by im- 
proper shoeing. If the shoe is not left on more than sixty 
days, bruises or corns cannot form in the hoof. 

Now a word about driving nails, and I have done. Nails 
should never be driven high, and then in six or eight weeks 
the foot will have grown sufficiently to enable the shoer to 
cut out the old nail-holes, leaving sound hoofs. If the nails, 
however, are driven high, at the next shoeing, the hoof will 
jiot have grown enough to cut down to the old nail-holes. 



98 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

and the water and mud will soak into these old holes and. 
cause the hoof to become rotten and brittle. 

I will guarantee satisfaction in all cases, and I further- 
more saj' that deformed feet can be remodeled and cured 
under my treatment. — By A. Larock. 

Shoeing for Sound Feet. 

Horseshoeing" should be done in such a manner as to 
keep health3% sound feet in their natural condition, and to 
make unhealthj^ ones as near sound as possible. I have 
been especially intei-ested in the theories bought forward 
on the question of '^ Hot vs. Cold Fitting." Some make it 
ver}^ plain that if hot fitting is practised it is sure to ruin 
the horse. Others again show clearly- that cold fitting is 
almost as injurious, and entails the extra drawback of 
waste of time. 

It seems to me that a combination of the two methods 
would bring better results than either would alone. I ad- 
vocate hot fitting and cold practice ; that is, fit the shoe 
hot, and scarcely touch the foot with it, and when the foot 
is sore or diseased don't even touch it, but bring the shoe 
close enough to it to enable you to shape it to the foot, in- 
stead of fitting the foot to the shoe. Of course in diseased 
feet we cannot always fit the shoe to the foot, but we can 
fit the shoe as nearly as possible to where the foot ought to 
be, using the frog for a center guide. 

Horseshoeing is a trade that needs good judgment and 
a large amount of practical common sense, as each horse is 
different from all others, and we might say that each foot 
on the same horse is different from the other three. Each 
individual foot must be shod according to its peculiarities 
or disease. Hence the impossibility of making an^^ one rule 
that will answer for all horses. Even those afflicted with 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 00 

the same trouble will of I en require different treatment. 
**' One man's meat is another man's poison/' is a saying 
that applies to horses as well as to men. 

In paring the foot cut onl}^ the dead horn away, and on 
no condition pare the sole, but with your knife scrape out 
the loose and. dead, layers, if there are an3\ Our object 
should be to assist nature against the unnatural wear to 
which the foot is subjected and. not to try to improve on a 
healthy foot. 

Fit the foot true and let it stand squarely on the floor. 
If the horse interferes do not cut one side of the foot more, 
cant the foot, twist the ankle and throw the whole limb out 
of balance, but keep it true and in balance and fit the shoe 
to stop the interfering. Tliere are but few cases of inter- 
fering that cannot be cured w'ith proper feed, care, and 
driving in connection with shoeing. If the shoe and foot 
are fitted true, as they should be, there will be a true, even 
bearing all around the Avail. Bring the heels of the shoe 
in, so that the point of the wall where it joins the bar will 
rest on the shoe. Do not spread the heels wide to avoid 
pinching or contraction of the foot. The vnde heels and 
high calks — ^as far as shoeing is responsible for contracted 
feet — cause more of them than all other methods put to- 
gether. The wide heels and high calks leave a point of 
horn to come down between the heels of the shoe and pre- 
vent the natural action of the foot. In shoeing contracted 
feet make the inside of the shoe heels the highest, or level 
them out, so that ever}^ time the horse steps it tends to 
spread the foot. Use as few and as small nails as j)ossible, 
and secure the shoe firmly in its place. In winter use as 
light calkins as are consistent with the use of the horse, 
and in summer put none at all on driving horses at least, 
and if a common sense shoe like the " Juniata" is used, flat 
on the top and concave on the bottom, many team horses 



100 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOEU. 

can haul heavier loads and do it easier than they can on 
calkins. 

In shoeing- a spavined horse keep the toe low, and use a 
very long- shoe with hig-h heels on the spavined leg-, as the 
horse has partly or entirelj^ lost the use of the hock joint. 
The method will make the horse travel much easier and 
g-reatly relieve the lameness. 

I do not believe in the so-called spring- heels ; I regard 
them as a positive injury to the foot. To illustrate : A 
few days ago a horse came to m.y shop with one front shoe 
bent nearly an inch. The horse had been driven about 
thirtj^ miles since he stepped on the shoe. After taking 
the shoe off I found the foot twisted about three-fourths 
of an inch. Now^, if in traveling- thirty miles one-quarter 
of the foot can be driven jjast the other three-fourths of an 
inch, so as to rest on a twisted shoe, why will not the foot, 
instead of the shoe, do the spring-ing- when the so-called 
spring- heels are used ? The shoe being- nailed at the toe, 
when the horse puts his foot down it makes a lever pur- 
chase, and the heaviest pressure comes on the weakest part 
of the foot, the heel quarter, where the wall is the thinnest, 
and receives the least support. — By Yankee Black- 
smith. 

For Hot Fitting. 

I believe it was about the year 1840, that a certain Mr. 
Riquet, a veterinary surg-eon, introduced what was termed 
a '^ podometrical " method of shoeing*. From the time the 
method of fitting" shoes to the hoof was introduced, a few 
inexperienced and professional men imagined that injury 
was done to the horse's foot. In rare cases this w^as the 
fact, for the custom was to pare the hoof down almost to 
the quick. So that we cannot wonder that a few careless 
workmen would press. the hot shoe so long upon the hoof 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 101 

as to permit the border of the sensitive sole to suffer from 
the hig'li temperature. Tliese accidents appear, liowever, 
to have been infrequent, as we read of very few cases of this 
kind. 

The idea prevails to some extent, that hot fitting is hurt- 
ful, and it was to guard ag-ainst this that the '' podometer '' 
was invented. This instrument was devised for the purpose 
of taking" the dimensions of the foot. It was ingenious, 
but deficient, as it took the exact size, but not the shape of 
the foot. The size of tlie foot was then entered in a reg-ister, 
and sent to the forg-e, where the shoes w^ere forg'ed accord- 
ing- to the measure of the foot after it had been pared down. 
Now, it seems as thoug"h anyone could drive the shoe on, 
when the horse was in the stable or on the highway; cer- 
tainly^ such shoes could not fit as though the impression 
had been made by a heated shoe. The trouble is that when 
the hoof is pared down and the cold shoe placed thereon, 
more or less cavities will remain between the hoof and shoe, 
so that the hoof does not rest equally on the shoe. By hot 
fitting, of course, a perfect fit can be secured. When the 
shoe is applied hot, the action of the heat on the hoof has a 
tendency to soften the hoof, so that when the nail is driven 
in, it can be driven more easily and accurately ; and as the 
hoof cools, it contracts about the nails and holds them firmly 
in their places, as shown by the following : 

^^ At the Cavalry School of Saumui*, in an experiment cov- 
ering an interval of over three 3'ears, from September 22, 
1841, to October 5, 1811, all the near-sided horses of the 
school were shod by the cold, and the off-sided ones by the 
hot method. In that space of time, out of 22,579 horses 
that w^ere fitted in the cold state, 386 shoes were lost, de. 
tached or broken, and only 123 out of the same number were 
lost, that were fitted while hot. That is, in the first case one 
shoe in 58 was detached, while in the second case one shoe 



102 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

out of 103 was lost. This great difference would, have been 
still greater if the hot method had been practised in the or- 
dinary manner. But the school was then laboring under an 
impression developed by the Podometric S^^stem, that there 
was danger of burning the sole, and an order was given to 
the farriers to apply the hot shoes ver}^ lightly, and to re- 
move that part of the hoof which had been in contact with 
the shoe. This was almost a return to the cold method of 
fitting. 

Colonel Ambert, also of the Saumur School, observed that, 
out of 600 horses, from 55 to 60 lost their shoes ever}^ month 
during the emplo^anent of cold fitting, or in other w^ords, 
the regiment lost a shoe every hour they marched, while 
with the system of hot fittmg the regiment lost onl}^ one 
shoo in eight daj^s. 

After careful observation and many experiments, I have 
come to the conclusion that hot fitting is not attended with 
any danger when properly practised, and that hot shoeing, 
as practised at that time, allows the workmen to make the 
shoe to fit the foot, an advantage that the cold shoeing does 
not possess. In fact, all the most distinguished veterinary 
professors or practitioners who have studied the subject, 
have unhesitatingl^T^ given the preference to hot fitting. — 
By Frank I. Gilbert. 

Favors Hot Fitting for Oxen. 

A person who has practised cold fitting all his life, of 
course tliinks no other system is right, and is apt to regard 
the advocates of hot fitting as being greatly in the dark. 
He feels quite sure that the animals subjected to such bar- 
barous and cruel treatment will be certainly ruined. 

Now, what is the object in fitting a shoe hot ? I answer, 
to get a perfect and solid bearing- Avhich can be obtained 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESKOER. 103 

in no other wd.y, as every smith well knows. Again I 
inquire. Why is so perfect a fit desirable ? The only an- 
swer that can he g-iven is, because the shoe will then stay 
upon the foot much long'er than it otherwise would. But 
is it a fact that shoes hot fitted will stay on much long-er 
than those cold fitted ? We claim that such is the case. 
This matter has been thoroug'hl3^ tested, with the most sat- 
isfactory results in favor of hot fitting'. Some thiiik hot 
fitting- rots the hoof and makes it brittle, and tell us that 
some horses have had their feet so injured by hot fitting that 
their shoes could not be kept on a week. I don't doubt 
this statement, for I know very well that there are many 
bunglers connected with the trade that never ought to be 
allowed to meddle with a horse's foot ; and I unhesitat- 
ingly affirm that nine-tenths of the evils supposed to be 
the result of hot fitting can be traced directl}^ or indirect- 
ly to the incompetency or carelessness of the shoer. That 
there are dangers attending the hot-fitting S3^stem, which 
should be carefully guarded against, I frankl}^ admit. 
Horses and oxen are often lamed through gross careless- 
ness on the part of the shoer. A smith w^ho will pare 
the foot down so near the quick that it will readilj^ yield 
under the pressure of the thumb and then press the hot 
shoe upon it, and hold it there until it is imbedded into 
the foot the whole thickness of the shoe, causiilg the animal 
to spring' and cringe, deserves the severest censure and 
ought to leave the business. I will now give 1113^ waj^ of hot 
fitting in shoeing cattle. For horses I seldom fit the shoes hot, 
it not being necessary, as they stay on quite long enough 
if put on cold, but Avith oxen it is diff'erent. 

In preparing the foot I use neither butteris nor knife, but 
instead a sharp rasp. I rasp the foot down level, but not so 
much that it will give under thumb-pressure. In applying the 
hot shoe I am careful to see tiiat it does not remain on the 



104 THE PRACTICAL ttORSESHOER. 

foot over two seconds at a time. It should be raised a 
little two or three times during- the operation, in order that 
the cold air ma^^ keep the heat from penetrating- to the 
quick. As soon as an impression is obtained I remove the 
shoe. I also burn in the clinches. This has been my method 
of shoeing- cattle for many years, and I have gained a reputa- 
tion for making shoes ^' hang on " better than any cold fit- 
ter can claim in my vicinity. Furthermore, I have seen no 
rotten or brittle hoofs. Another advantage gained in hot 
fitting is that the heat has a tendency to soften the hoof, and 
this allows nails to be driven more easily and accurately in 
cold w^eather. To sum the matter up, I believe that no bad 
effect can result from hot fitting if the work is properly 
done.— By W. H. B. 

Favors Hot Fitting. 

The reasons given for cold fitting are about as follow^s : 

1. ^' That burning the hoof seems unnatural, closing its 
pores, tending to keep the hoof dry," etc., and that "hot 
fitting" is adopted because it is a quicker method. 

2. ' ' Hot fitting stops the pores ; it kills the nerves and 
fibre ; the foot is made brittle ; the shoe will get loose 
sooner ; the sole of the foot will separate from the inner 
hoof about once a year ; the foot is made tender and the 
horse lamed for life ;" all of w^hich, if true, would certainly 
furnish sufficient reasons for abandoning the practice for- 
ever. 

Now, from these opinions, backed up as I know they are 
by many writers upon the subject, both ancient and mod- 
ern, I, with all due respect, must beg leave to dissent. The 
position I take is this, that ''hot fitting" is not only the 
quickest but that it is the best method. By ** hot fitting " 
I do not mean to burn away for several minutes to save 



THfi PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 105 

cutting-, but after the foot is properly prepared to appl}^ the 
hot shoe for a moment, then remove and use the knife to 
remove the inequaUties. Then appl^^ the shoe until the 
whole surface has been seared, and this takes but an instant's 
application of the hot shoe. If the foot has been properly- 
prepared, and the shoe is of the rig-ht size and shape, we 
shall have that most desirable thing- — a perfect fit, but more 
important than even that, we shall by the hot iron have 
closed the pores of the horn and thus prevented the escape 
of the moisture which nature provides for this living- struc- 
ture. I want to emphasize this fact that the hoof is a living- 
structure, nourished and supplied with ail that is necessary 
for its growth and health from the inside ; that is, in a 
healthy foot. In the case of the animal runnmg- m the field 
without shoes, the hoof is worn or bruised off, keeping- the 
pores closed, upon the same plan upon wiiicli the ecraseur 
operates in severing- blood vessels ; but in cutting- the hoof 
Ave leave these pores exposed, and the nearer we cut to the 
sensitive parts the g-reater number we expose, the more 
moisture will escape, and the g-i'eater injury we shall in- 
flict. 

Now just here the best reason for "hot fitting:" comes in. 
By touching' fig"htly the cut surface we seal up the avenues 
by which moisture escapes, and thus prevent the drying- of 
the horn. This theory can be easily tested. Let anyone 
take the knife and rasp and pare the foot in the ordinary 
way and fit the shoe cold, and then take another foot of the 
same animal and pare and fit the shoe hot, and after the 
lapse of a few hours remove the shoes. The burned hoof 
will have a hard, thin crust upon it, and just under this it 
will be as moist as when cut, but the other one will be found 
hard and drj^ for a considerable depth. 

This burning counteracts the evil of the unnatural process 
of cutting- the hoof. 



106 THE PRACTICAL HORsESHOER. 

How anyone who has given the subject thought can be- 
lieve that it is injurious to touch the hot shoe to the super- 
fluous horn upon the bottom of the hoof, hoi-n which has 
served its purpose and would be entirely worn away were 
the animal to go barefooted for a short time, considering, 
too, the fact that horn is a non-conductor of heat, passes 
my comprehension. 

I am satisfied tiiat the evils attributed to "hot fitting" 
are due to other causes which only the most thorough 
knowledge of the physiolog}^ and anatomy of the parts, and 
a long experience will reveal. 

The business of shoeing and managing horses^ feet so as 
to preserve soundness and restore those which have become 
ill-shapen and diseased, is one whose nnportance can scarce- 
1}^ be overestimated. — By E. A. McLellan. 

Against Hot Fitting. 

I cannot see wlw anyone is in favor of hot fitting, unless 
it is easier done. It sui'ely is not because a hot shoe is 
beneficial to the hoof. Do you think that you can take 
a hot shoe and burn a bearing without injur\^ to the 
hoof ? 

Heat is one of the worst enemies of the health and tough- 
ness of a horse's hoof. I never saw a hoof that had been 
subjected to hot fitting for an}^ length of time that w^as not 
greatl}" damaged, being hard, dry and brittle. You cannot 
apply a hot shoe to a horse's hoof without mjury. If the foot 
is flat or thin it will stand ver}' little heat, and at any rate 
you are working on dangerous ground. A foot dressed 
with nippers, knife and rasp to a level bearing, and shoe 
properly fitted and nailed, has none of the above objections. 
—Bij R. T. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 107 

Against Hot Fitting. 

Hot fitting- is a barbarous practice ; it draws the oil and 
moisture from the foot and leaves it crisp and brittle. I 
have seen smiths hold a red-hot shoe on a foot until it has 
been fried like a steak. 

Why is this done ? 

Because the^^ are too lazy to use the knife arrcl rasp. A 
smith is justified in heating a shoe hot enough to make an 
impression on the foot, but no hotter, and a smith who can- 
not fit a shoe in this way ought to leave the business. I do 
not think that any rules from books can be of much use to 
shoers, because a st3'le of shoeing that will answer well for 
one horse ma^^ not do at all for the next. I think horse- 
shoeing requires more study than any other part of the 
smith's trade. — By U. B. 

Cold Fitting Best. 

I notice that a few smiths are not yet alive to the absurd- 
ity of hot fitting". I regard the practice as unworthy of 
civilized men. My wa^^ is to keep on hand shoes of every 
shape and size likely to be called for, and by doing this I 
avoid the necessity for heating while shoeing. Keep a sharp 
butteris for trimming feet, and get a nice fit without burn- 
ing. 

Time and coal are lost in reheating, and, moreover, the 
shoe must be made quite hot, so that it may burn the out- 
side quickly without heating the foot more than is necessar\' . 
But when the shoe has cooled it will not fit the impression 
in the hoof, because the ii^on has, of course, shrunk. So 
that, after all, burning will not make a shoe level. I can 
put a shoe on by the time a man who burns is ready to drive 
the first nail. 

Perhaps some men are fond of burning because they have 



108 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

no skill in using' the butteris or knife. It requires a good 
deal of practice to use these tools properly, but an^^ boy or 
clumsy old fanner can burn a foot. 

I don't know liow this idea of hot fitting' orig'inated, but it 
is about on a par with the practice of Indians in burning- 
away the surplus wood in shaving- tools and implements. 
Tliere was a time, too, when farmers burned log's instead of 
sawing- them ; but that was long- ag-o. Farmers don^'t burn 
logs now. Yet it is just as sensible to do so as to appl^^ 
a red-hot shoe to a horse's hoof. Let the man who believes 
in putting' a hot shoe on within three-eig'hths of an inch of 
live flesh and blood try the experiment of placing' a hot 
horse-nail head on his big' toe nail, and allowing- it to remain 
there until its shape is well defined on the nail. I think he 
Avould then discover that hot fitting' was not such a brilliant 
idea as he had imagined. 

Another objection to burning a hoof is that it causes an 
offensive smell and smoke, and makes the horse jerk and 
twist so that it is a wonder some smiths don't g-et kicked to 
death.— ^^ F. B. 

Against Hot Fitting. 

It is well known to all horseshoers that many horses' 
feet, particularly the front ones, and especially in summer 
time, are ver}^ hard and brittle, and about as difficult to cut 
as a cow's horn. Now, if a red-hot shoe is held to a horse's 
hoof for a few seconds the hoof can be immediatel}^ cut as 
easih' as a piece of mellow cheese. Mind what I say, the 
foot is always cut instantly after the burning-, or there is 
nothing gained b^' the operation. This alone is the reason 
why hot fitters follow the practice, and anything' else that 
is said about it is merely a waste of words, intended to mis- 
lead. The word cold fitting- is a misnomer, for there is no 
such thing. All shoes are fitted to the horses' feet while the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 109 

shoes are hot. As the shoe is worked on the anvil, so it is 
fitted or formed to the foot. It is impossible to fit a shoe 
to a horse's foot without scorching' tliefoot a Uttle, or if pos- 
sible, no man would take the trouble with a cold shoe for 
the very g'ood reason " That the devil g*ets the smith that 
hammers cold iron." 

But to do as some smiths do, hold a red-hot shoe to a 
horse's foot until iJlie sjnoke of the burning- hoof actuall;^ 
hides the smith, is barbarous in the extreme. Doubtless 
there are some honest, well-meaning:, but very hard- worked 
horseshoers chat quiet their consciences by the thought that 
burning the hoofs does the horse little or no harm, and ena- 
bles them to do more and easier work. With all due defer- 
ence to these men, I say most emphatically, the practice is 
one of the most injurious to which a horse can be subjected. 

It is all nonsense to say that horseshoes cannot be made 
to sta^^ on and wear as well by cold fitting as b}^ hot fitting. 
I have seen horses shod by cold fitting, and the shoes have 
remained on over three months and done well all that time, 
and the horses were working ever3^ day, Sundays excepted. 
I do not advocate an^- such thing, however, for in my opin- 
ion six weeks is a long enough time for shoes to sta}^ on any 
horse's feet. 

In conclusion I will say, if all horse owners would insist 
that there must be no more burning of their horses' feet 
when shod (even if something more must be paid for the 
work), the practice would cease but not till then. — By M. 
D. D. 



CHAPTER V. 

CONTRACTED FEET. 

Contraction probably g'ives shoers more trouble than any 
other one thing connected with shoeing*. In greater or less 
degree contraction is present in a large percentage of feet. 
The good shoer is constantly employed in an effort to 
guard against it, and if horse owners were as mtelligent as 
the^^ ought to be, and careful to exercise that intelligence, he 
would, more frequently than he does, succeed in reducing 
the difficulty to a minimum. The different methods em- 
ployed by shoers to overcome this trouble are presented in 
this chapter. 

Causes of Contraction. 

Perhaps there is no more prolific source of lameness in 
the horse than contraction, which simply means a gradual 
loosening of the entire hoof, chiefly in the heel, and for 
some reason or other, generally of the fore feet. It is com- 
monly called by horsemen " widening of the hoof," and 
pressing unduly upon the sensitive laminee of the hoof, pro- 
duces that peculiar lameness which so much puzzles the 
uninitiated, being to them an invisible cause. Even the 
so-called horse-doctors are generall}^ completelj^ puzzled by 
this disease when looking for the cause of lameness. There 
is no possible criteiion for fixing the appearance accurately 
of any peculiarity^ of lameness consequent upon contrac- 
tion — sometimes the lameness being very slight, while at 
other times it is very acute, so much so as to render the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. Ill 

horse for the time quite useless, being- g'enerall3" pronounced 
foundered b^^ those who think they know whereof they 
sperJv. 

Its causes are numerous and various ; but, in ni}^ opinion, 
which is founded upon practical observation, the cliief 
cause is in fault^^ shoeing-. Sufficient attention is not paid 
to the nature of the hoof to be sliod ; a thin shell hoof re- 
quires a hght shoe ; the nails should be small, and not too 
tightly clinclied. This last point is very important indeed, 
in all shoeing, yet a horse with a strong, thick hoof, may 
take a much heavier shoe and larger nails, and they may 
be a little more tightly clinched. 

Another ver^^ important point for which the blacksmith 
is not answerable, is that some persons, farmers especially, 
allow the shoes to be worn just as long as they will stay on, 
often letting a poor horse do hard work with three, two, or 
even one shoe on. By this means horses are quite apt to 
have one hoof larger than the other, from the fact that the 
bare foot, or feet, wear down, while the ones shod retain 
all the hoof, hence the cause for the remark so common, 
^'3^our horse has odd feet.'' It is a good plan to allow 
horses to go barefoot a few da^^s occasionally ; by so doing- 
the hoof expands, and so far is a preventive of contraction. 
Foul, dirty stables, or other manure heaps, occasion the dis- 
ease by the action of ammonia upon the horny portion of 
the feet. 

Standing constantly upon a hard, dr^^ floor is another 
source of this evil also. Such horses should have woolen 
pads or cloths of several thicknesses tied loosely around, just 
above and overhanging the hoof, Avhich are to be kept con- 
stanth^ wet with water. Finall}^ if the feet are very bad, 
take off all the shoes, open the heels on each side of the 
cleft of the frog, pare until you can see the quick, and, if 
grass time, turn him out in a damp pasture ; if not grass 



112 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

time, turn him in the next similar and best place you can 
for a few weeks, and you will be more lil^ely to effect a 
cure. When he is taken up, care must be taken not to sub- 
ject him to the same causes. If the horse should be still 
lame after the paring-, as he will be, do not be afraid, he 
will soon g-et over it, and be all the more sound for the 
paring- as recommended. — Wm. Horne, V. S., in Dixie 
Farmer. 

Shoeing Contracted Feet 

In shoeing" for contraction I take a spreader, made of 
:|-inch round iron, sharpen it at both ends, bend the points 
back about one-quarter of an mch to a square band, and 
then bend it into the shape of a clevis with both points 
straig"ht out. I next pare the hoof down well, and if there 
is any inflammation in it, I pour some turpentine on the bot- 
tom, set fire to it and let it burn, but not long- enough to 
allow the hoof to become dr^^ anywhere. I then exting-uish 
the fire with a rag", and bend the spreader so as to fit in be- 
tween the heels of the hoof, but leaving* it wider than the 
heels by as much as I wish to spread the hoof. I then put 
one end of the spreader on one heel and pry the other end 
down with a punch or piece of iron. Next I nail on the 
shoe and mix up a lotion composed of one ounce of corrosive 
sublimate, finel}^ pulverized, and one pint of turpentine. This 
should be put in a strong bottle and applied to the foot at 
intervals until the inflammation has disappeared. Then the 
shoe should be removed, and a piece of leather, on which pine 
tar has been spread, should be placed on the bottom of the 
hoof. The shoe must then be nailed on again carefull}^ 
and the spreader applied to it. Next I take one j^art of 
soft soap made of potash, one of lard and one of turpentine; 
stir well together and use for softening the hoof ajid stimu- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 113 

latiiig its growth. This plan has never failed with me yet. 

Shoeing Contracted Feet. 

To, shoe for contracted feet I pare the toe down all I dare, 
leaving- the heel as high as I can ; then, in fitting the shoe, 




Fig. 63— Showing a Shoe made by a Common but Faulty Method. 

instead of turning the heel in as a good many smiths do, I 
turn it out and nail the shoe on in the ordinarj^ way. But 




Fig. 64— Proper form of Shoe for Contracted Feet. 

when this is done, I take a pair of tongs, and, placing them 
between the heels, spread the heels just a little. This will 



114 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

spread the foot if it is repeated each time the horse is shod. 
The reason I turn the heels out is that when turned in, as 
in Fig. 63 of the annexed engravings, the bearing is brought 
so close together that the weight pressing outside of the 
bearings draws the shoe together. But if you turn the 
heels out, as in Fig. 64, j^ou get a broad bearing that 
will not draw together. I turn the heels out on all the 
shoes I put on, and find that the plan always gives satis- 
faction.— 5?/ C. S. E. 

Proper Shoeing for Contracted Feet. 

Contracted feet are more commonly the consequence of 
lameness in horses than the cause. Any diseased condition 
inside the hoof giving rise to an unusual degree of heat 
leads to a more rapid evaporation from the surface of the 
horn, to dr3dng and shrinking of the hoof, and to absorp- 
tion of the soft parts within. The shrinkage or narrowing 
takes place especially at the heel, where the foot has not a 
long, but onl}^ an elastic, cartilaginous internal support, 
which fields easily to any pressure from without. 

A second condition, which alwa3^s coincides with this dry- 
ing due to disease, is the disease of the heel caused by the 
animal standing on its toe, or removing the weight from 
tlie entire foot. When the foot is planted on the ground 
and the weight thrown upon it, the soft parts descending 
Avithin the hoof tend to press it outward, and as a matter of 
fact the hoof does actualh^ expand at the upper part, 
next the hair, and thus the natural tendency of the unused 
elastic hoi-n to contract is to a great extent counteracted. 
Disease is, therefore, a more common cause of contraction, 
and in all cases of contracted feet it is well first to look for 
some existing disease, such as corns, bruises, pricks, and 
other wounds, graveling-, thrush, inflammation from uneven 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 115 

bearing of the shoe, from the nails being" drawn up too 
tight, from navicular disease, from ringbone affecting the 
second or third phalanx, and so on. 

Apart from any disease sufficient to cause lameness, con- 
traction of the feet sometimes goes on to an extreme degree, 
until, indeed, one heel may meet the other ; yet lameness is 
not induced. Yet, if contraction takes place with rapidity, 
as under the influence of a long" period of rainless weather 
following a wet spring, the compression of the soft parts b^^ 
the dryiug and shrinking horn will cause inflammation and 
lameness. Contraction caused in this way may be counter- 
acted and corrected bj^ measures calculated to soften and 
expand the horn, followed by such as will retain its natural 
moisture and give proper bearing on the shoe. To soften 
the contracted foot, keep the unshod animal standing every 
day for sixteen hours in a stream of water coming up to 
the hair around the top of the hoof, or in a soft muck of 
clay puddle, closing in around the foot to the same level. 
In frosty weather a warm poultice, placed in a strong bag" 
drawn over the foot, is preferable, the more so that it can 
be kept applied night and day. At the end of a fortnight 
the foot will usually be found to have expanded to its nat- 
ural dimensions. 

If there is much lameness, it will be desirable to apply a 
blister on the fi-ont and sides of the pastern during the 
period of poulticing. This may be repeated and the poultic- 
ing continued, if lameness remains at the end of a fort- 
night. As a blister, the following may be rubbed into the 
skin on the front and sides of the pastern : Powdered can- 
tharides, one-half drachm ; oil of lavender, ten drops ; olive 
oil one ounce. It may be repeated the second day if heat 
and tenderness have not been induced by the first apphca- 
tion and also so soon as the effects of the first application 
have passed off and the resulting scabs have dropped off. 



116 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



When lameness has disappeared, and the foot has been 
sufficient!}^ expended, it should he dressed carefull}^, g'oing" 
the same height to the wall at all corresponding* points on 
the inner and outer sides, and paring* heel and toe in proper 
ratio with each other, the sole heing'left as far as possible 
to come to the heel with the hoof wall at all points, and 
furnish with it a surface of bearing for the shoe. 

The shoe should be perfectly loose and smooth, and when 
applied should press evenly at all points. It should be 
drawn only moderately tight, and on giving its final dress- 




Fig. 65 — Proper Way of Driving Nails. 



ing the use of the file should be as far as i)ossible avoided. 
The horn is formed of a series of pus tubes with an inter- 
tubular cellular structure, and when the rasp or file is used 
so as to expose the open ends of these tubules the contained 
moisture exhales, the horn withers, and the soft parts may 
be injuriously pressed upon. For this reason the use of 
the file on the front of the hoof is to be severely deprecated. 
It should onl}' be used on the lower edge of the hoof wall, 
where it projects over the shoe, and when the sharp edges 
might otherwise split up. For a similar reason the sole 



^flfi PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. llT" 

should never be pared down into the tough, elastic horn, 
thoug'h all scaly masses on the surface may be safely re- 
moved. After shaving", the use of hoof ointment will serve 
to prevent evaporation and drying', and is absolutel^^ need- 
ful after the foot has been softened bj^ poulticing*. A mix- 
ture of equal parts of wood tar and sweet oil will answer 
admirably. This brushed daily over the entire surface of 
the horn — wall, sole and frog- — will usually preserve a suf- 




Fjg. 66— A Faulty Method of Driving Nails. 

ficiency of moisture and the natural elasticity and tough- 
ness of the horn. — Prof. Law in Farmer's Gazette. 



Shoeing Contracted Feet. 

My method of shoeing- for contracted feet, is as follows : 
I make a shoe to fit the foot nicely all around and trim the 
foot as much as it will bear, taking- care to keep it as level 
as possible and not to disturb the frog* or interfere with the 
bridge. I then put the shoe on the foot and drive in all the 
nails, bending" them up against the foot instead of breaking 



118 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

them off or bending them down as some men do. After 
these nails are all driven I draw them out again, spread the 
shoe all around one-eighth of an inch and drive the nails 
back in the same holes. This g'entl^^ draws the hoof apart 
and eases the pressure on the pedal bones. The nails being- 
driven inward tend to spread the foot. Every time the 
horse steps on a shoe made on my plan, and shov>-n in Fig. 
65 of the engravings annexed, the foot will be drawn apart, 
but a shoe made and put on in the manner illustrated in 
Fig. 66 will draw the foot together. In following m^^ method 
it is necessary to remove the shoe from the horse every ten 
or fourteen days and let him stand on a dampened dirt floor. 
Under this treatment he will soon be cured.— By R. J. G. 



Contracted Feet, Corns, and Chest Founder. 

Relative to shoeing chest-foundered horses, and in regard 
to contracted feet and corns, I will say that the three, al- 
though called by different names,belong to the same family, 
and all are in the foot, chest founder not excepted. And I 
still insist upon it as logical. Now, who will undertake to sa}^ 
that a horse's breast has become shrunken. from its natural 
make up, in any respect, except from the loss of. flesh, or by 
being poor ; the bone or brisket is all there ; none of it has 
been taken out ; just set the feet back under the horse, and 
he will have just as full a breast as he ever had, excepting 
he may be poorer in flesh. Now, what is the fact about a 
contracted foot or any other foot ? As a rule, the frog is 
not only the cushion on which the horse stands, but is the 
width of heel, also. Now, if the frog is small, unnaturally 
hard or diseased from any cause, usually you will find the 
shell of heel and bars narrowing in, and, it is said, true 
enough, that the foot is contracted ; the angle of the heel 
hooks into the frog, and needs separating ; the shell of the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. HO 

foot sets on to the Aviiig- of the paddle bone, and we get 
corns here, and the result is, in either case, a sore foot, like 
the result of a tight, stiff boot full of wrinkles, pegs and 
nails, and the feet are set out in front to rest and ease 
the pressure of av eight, the shoulders set forward, and the 
breast looks as if it had been driven in, and is improperly 
called chest founder. 

Now, to pull the heel open is to pull the bars away from 
the frog ; if it is spread enough to do any good, it hurts, 
whether done with nailing tongs, screws or a stump puller; 
and what fills this cavity made b3' pulling the heel open, 
except the frog, and of course you must wait for the 
frog- to grow to accomplish it, and the horse must endure 
this torture to accommodate fault^^ practices. Now just 
let the horse have a ground bearing on the frog, and 
keep the frog and hoof soft and cool with water, so that 
it won't Irurt the horse to stand on the frog, so that it 
may have its natural growth, and 3'Ou will notice that 
the frog will enlarge and resume its healthy and thriving- 
condition, and crowd or pull the heel open to better advan- 
tage than any artificial theory for making horses' feet. — By 
S. Stone. 

Against Spreading for Contraction. 

Many writers advise the spreading of the foot at the time 
of shoeing. 

This is a very old custom, but I have discarded it for 
nine years past, except in extreme cases. A foot can be 
spread very quickly by putting on a shoe and then opening- 
it at the heels with the tongs, but this process generall^^ 
gives i)ain to the horse, and this pain is constant night and 
day, for the animal cannot take off his shoes at night as a 
man can, when a pair of boots hurt his feet. 



ISO THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

My method will not spread a foot as quickly as the old 
plan, but it is more effective in the end and does not entail 
the possibility of a permanent injury to the horse. It is as 
follows : 

A shoe is made in summer without calks ; in winter with 
very low ones, just sufficient to prevent slipping-. The 
heel is cut down quiet low so as to get all the frog- press- 
ure, and the foot is concaved a little at the heel, or from the 
heel nails hack. The shoe should have the nail holes well 
toward the toe, and must fit the foot perfectly as far around 
as the lieel nails, hut from this point to the heels should 
project outside the shell. At the heels the shoe must be at 
each side from three-eig-hths to half an inch wider than the 
foot and convex from the heels as far forward as the last 
nails. In had cases I do not drive more than six nails. 

The shoe should he removed quite often, and must not he 
too convex or the foot will be spread too fast. 

In this way of shoeing-, when the horse is standing- the 
feet will spread, and a circulation will be created inside the 
hoof, which will lead to the filling* up of the cavity in the 
natural way, or in other words, to a permanent cure. 

I have followed this plan for nine years and it never 
failed. Flat feet do not easily contract.— ^2/ H. Y. D. 

Shoeing Contracted Feet. 

It is a fact known to all shoers who have made the 
anatom}^ of the horse's foot a study, that you cannot use a 
bar shoe in all cases of contraction. To illustrate : Let us 
take two different cases. First, we will take a foot that has 
a normal toe and outside quarter and heel, hut the inside 
quarter and heel are contracted. No\v, how can we use, in 
such a case, a bar shoe with a frog pressure ? I will g-ive 
you my way of treating- such a patient. First put the foot 



THE PRACTICAL KORSESHOER. l2i 

in an oil-meal poultice so that the poultice will come on the 
inside more than on anj^ other part of the foot, for from 
twelve to thirty-six hours. After the foot has become soft 
use a shoe like that shown in Fig". 67. Fit the shoe to the 
foot. After the shoe is nailed on take a spreader (I use a 




Fig. 67— The Shoe used when the inside Quarter and Heel are contracted. 

spreader in many cases of quarter crack and contraction), 
insert the spreader at the heels of the shoe and thus throw 
out the inside weh of the shoe, for you will see that the 
shoe is w^eakened at the inside toe and will not give at any 
other point. It is unsafe to spread more than a little at a 



122 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

time. I have shod a great number of feet in this condition 
and always with the best results, w^hile a bai' shoe could not 
have been used to advantage. 

Now let us take another foot with both heels contracted. 
To look at it hastil^^ it would suggest a bar shoe at once, 




Fig. 68— Shoe used when both Heels are contracted. 

but on more careful examination we find the foot hard and 
the frog as hard as a chip and almost crowded out of 
existence. Now let us see if a bar shoe would be the best 
for tliis foot. We think not, for, if we apply the bar shoe 
and get a direct frog pressure, the pressure on the internal 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 123 

or sensitive frog", will in most cases be too severe and cause 
more inflammation than existed before, and we will have 
aggravated the trouble instead of curing- it. In this case 
my treatment would be similar to the first case in man^^ 
I'espects. 

I first level the foot, but lower the toe as much as I can 
with safet3\ Then I' take a small saw and saw the foot 
open at both heels till I get through and start the blood, 1 
then put on the shoe showai in Fig. 68, and spread as 
before. 

Shoeing in this way, as your patients are 'driven up to 
your shop, you can take 3^our compasses and spreader, slip 
out and expand the foot by spreading the shoe without re- 
moving it from the foot. — By H. M. S. 

Contracted and Hoof-bound Feet. 

Contraction of the feet is a disease more frequent among 
horses than an}" other to which they are subject, and it af- 
fects road and draught horses alike. It results from the 
hoof losing its moisture and thus becoming hard and fever- 
ish. Horses raised on farms aUvaj^s suffer from this disease. 
The causes are hard, dry floors and a lack of frog pressure. 
Its distinguishing features are a long, narrow foot, as 
shown in Fig. 69 of the accompanying engravings, and a 
large, high coronet as seen in Fig 70. 

If contracted at the quarters there is a strong wall at 
the heel and toe, as illustrated in Fig. 69, but if contracted 
at the heels the wall is strong everywhere excepting at the 
heels. 

The best remedy is the bar shoe, with nail holes around 
the toe. The wall should be raised, especiall}" at the heels, 
until a frog pressure is obtained. The sole should be pared 
but slightly, because a thick sole acts as a brace and pre- 



12.1: 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



vents the foot from shriDking". The shoe must bear on the 
frog" and the feet should be soaked in water every night. 
There are other methods of shoeing that might be adopt- 




Fig. 69— Showing a Foot Contracted at the Quarters as described by " F. G." 

ed in cases where there is no lameness. For instance : 
The foot can be pared as in the first method and then shod 
with plain shoes drawn down at the heel or with a tip 




Fig. 70 — Showing the prominence of the Coronet in a Contracted Foot. 



around the toe. This tip requires about six nails, and al- 
lows the tip to bear on the ground. The horse should 
stand on a dirt floor and wet cloths must be wrapped around 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 125 

the foot every nig'ht for at least a month. The shoeing- 
should be repeated every fourth week. It will be observed 
that in the center of the frog" is a point called the V, which 
in a contracted foot is very hard and sharj). Now when the 
frog' is pressed on the ground this V penetrates the foot 
and forces it open just as a wedge would. The country 
horse has broad, flat heels and hardl^^ any V to enter the 
frog-. In some cases the horse may be lame for some time 
after shoeing, but by keeping' the feet moist a cure will be 
affected. 

It must be remembered that the Avail is the weakest near- 




Fig. 71 — Showing a Hoof -Bound Foot. 

est the heel, and at the frog nearest the coronet. Contract- 
ed feet have, of course, hard, long and narrow frogs, 
which are generally afl'ected with a disease called thrush 
or frog-rot. This is, however, easily cured by appl^iug 
salt and turpentine every two or three days or a week or 
so — unless it breaks out above the hair, and then it is a case 
for the veterinarv sure-eon. 

Hoof-bound feet are distinguished b}^ a ridge running 
completely around the hoof, as shown in Fig. 71. The dis- 
ease resembles contraction, except that the coronet is not 



126 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



enlarged. It is first perceived at the hair and gTows down- 
ward, being- at its Avorst Avhen about one-third of the way 
down. It is found only on front feet and generally only on 
those of horses raised on hard soils. It completely cripples 
the horse, making him unfit for any use for at least a 
month, or until the wall of the foot becomes soft and pli- 
able. 

In shoeing in such cases the sole should be pared until it 
responds to the pressure of the thumb, and the outside of 
the wall must be rasped away considerably. But, of course, 




Fig. 7a— Showing a Foot shod with Tip, and with the Frog bearing on the ground. 

judgment must be emplo^^ed according to the circumstances 
attending each case. Put on a plain bar shoe that bears 
equally on the frog, toe, heel and quarters — in other words 
a perfect level bearing. The rest depends on the hostler. 
The feet shoLdd be soaked every evening in blood- warm water 
for about twent}" minutes, and then wrapped in wet cloths 
for the night. The animal must stand only on a clay floor. 
It Is necessary for the ridge to grow out as the foot grows 
downwaixlj and for this six to eight montjis are required, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 12Y 

I have seen cases of this disease in horses fresh from the 
country and in animals which have never been shod. The 
treatment that I have advised will insure a noticeable im- 
provement in from four to six weeks. Fig*. 72 represents a 
foot shod with a tip, and with quarter, heel and frog" bear- 
ing- on the g"round. — By F. G. 



Favors Spreading for Contraction. 

My method of treating- tender or contracted feet is as 
follows : As soon as the frost is out of the g-round re- 
move the winter shoe and pare the foot all it will bear, espe- 
cially at the heel. Scrape and cut the horn from the 
sole around the frog', and press on the sole with the thumb 
until it gives under the pressure. The braces must never be 
cut very much, and the frog should not be cut at all. A 
flat shoe with a very low toe calk and no heel calks is 
then put on and the insides of the heels are clipped 
nearly to a point. Make the shoe to cover the foot well, 
never use a short shoe and have the nail holes slant 
inw^ards. 

Don't hew the foot down to fit the shoe, but always 
make the shoe to suit the foot. At the heel the shoe should 
be I of an inch wider than the foot. From the point of the 
frog" to the heel (inside) the shoe should have an advantag-e 
of ^ of an inch in height. To measure this correctly 
apply a straightedge or square to the bottom of the 
shoe. Then, Avith the aid of a pair of tongs and a helper, 
spread the foot out to the full width of the shoe at the 
heel and keep it there until the nails are in at the heel. 
Use small nails and do not draw too tight. The object 
is to bring the frog on the ground. With superflu- 
ous horn, etc., all removed and a shoe fitted concave, 



128 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

as I have described, the frog" will flatten and the foot ex- 
pand rapidly. 

For draft horses use a very low heel calk, and when 
the ground is frozen use the common shoe with clips. 
Do not employ a rasp to file under clinches, because this 
cuts across the grain of the hoof and injures it. I use a 
very small gouge, the width of a nail, and take out 
a little under the nail. This will give a good clinch every 
time. For light driving horses the nails should be driven 
hard and well clinched and clipped close with the clinch- 
cutter, then filed down and smoothed. — By S. C. C. 

Contracted Feet. 

I will give my mode of spreading a contracted foot. The 
tool I use for the purpose is illustrated in the engraving 
Fig". 73. It is about 8 inches long, the jaws are tV or ^ inch 
thick, and the screw is about 3^ inches long. It is put on 
the foot with the short side hooks (which are about ^ inch 




Fig. 73— Tool used for Spreading Contracted Feet, 

long) in the heel. You can spread the heel just as much 
as it will bear. Fit the shoe considerably' wider than the 
foot was before the heel was spread, level the shoe from 
the last nail hole out so that it will tend to give outward 
instead of inward as the weight comes on it. A little 
practice will teach the smith how much the foot will stand, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



129 



and how large the shoe should be, then lay the spreader 
flat on the foot, with the side hooks in the heel, and turn 
the screAv. The larger the thread is on the screw the 
easier it will he to spread the foot. A good smith can tell 
whether the heel or toe is too long by looking at the foot. — 
By B. B. 

Shoe for Contracted Feet. 

Contraction is caused by the feet becoming hard from neg- 
lect in not being taken care of. The shoer drives the shoe 
on without properly preparing the foot. The quarters 
turn in and draw together at the heel, and the horse, as a 
consequence, becomes lame and cannot travel. What is the 
remedy for this defect ? Some farriers claim that the horse 




Fig. 74— Shoe for Contracted Feet. 

should be turned out in marsh}^ ground until the hoof be- 
comes softened, when the difficulty will disappear. This 
plan is generally impracticable, as the owner of the horse 
wants to use him. 

Others say the shoe should be made wide and nailed on 
while the hoof is spread with a pair of tongs. Still others 
use wide shoes and pretend to believe that contractions can 



130 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

be cured by them. Manj^ other methods have come under 
my observation, and none of them are of much if any 
value. 

My plan is to make a shoe expressly for contracted feet 
and the sketch, Fig\ 74, will illustrate m}- idea. The dotted 
line. A, represents a joint made by simply cutting- a com- 
mon shoe throug"h the center of the toe with a half round 
chisel. Holes, as shown, are then punched in each part of 
the severed shoe near the proposed joint, and countersunk 
on the inner surface. The toe calk, B, is then made, holes 
being" punched in it and countersunk to correspond with the 
holes in the shoe. The parts are then riveted together as 
shown in the cut. The concavity of one part of the shoe 
fitting the convexity of the other, a perfect hing-e is formed 
which can play beneath the toe plate or calk B. Care 
should be taken not to have the two surfaces fit too tightly. 
They must be loose enough to move easily upon each other. 
Then the heels of the shoe are turned up, not too high, but 
so as to bring them on a level with the toe and drawn out- 
ward so as to stand well apart. The^^ should round out- 
ward, so that when the horse's weight comes upon them 
the}" will spring slightly apart. Small clips should be 
turned up on the inner edge of the shoe just in front of the 
heels, as shown at D, D, to catch inside of the quarter and 
hold tlie foot apart while it is being spread by the animal's 
w^eight upon the shoe. If the shoe is made as described 
you will have no difficulty in spreading the foot and curing 
the worst case of contraction. — By A. S. 

Contracted Feet — Against Hot Fitting. 

Permit me to say a few words in regard to shoeing con- 
tracted feet. It is cruel for a man to nail iron to the foot of 
a horse and then spread it with tongs or anything else. A 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 131 

good shoer can spread the hoof enough by driving the nails, 
by leaving the shoes full wide and setting the nail close 
against the inside of the nail-hole of the shoe each time he 
puts one on. The best way to use a contracted foot is not 
to shoe it at all. No man ever saw a contracted foot on a 
horse that was never shod, nor ever will he. 

The frog of the foot of the horse should never have a 
knife or anything touch it in shoeing, nor should a shoe 
that takes the frog off of the ground ever be nailed on afoot. 
The frog is the life of the foot, and it is the wedge that holds 
the heels apart and causes the hoof to expand. 

The injudicious method of paring away the frog and sole 
prevents the bars from touching the ground. The sensible 
plan is, first, to let the frog and sole acquire their natural 
thickness. Second, lead the horse to a gravel meadow, 
stuff the hollow of the foot with cow-dung or tar ointment, 
and leave him in the meadow, renewing the dung or oint- 
ment every day. 

Applications of oils and brutal spreading of the feet with 
tong's never cured a contracted foot. 

I will also say that a smith who is unable to fit a shoe to 
a foot without burning it level should be driven out of the 
trade. Burning a foot makes the hoof so hard that a knife 
cannot cut it when it gets cold, and the foot must necessa- 
rily be ruined sooner or later. — By M. T. 



Contracted Feet. 

My plan for treating a hoof -bound foot is to first pare the 
toe close but leave all I can across the quarters, and then 
fit the shoe nicely and put it on, driving the nails in the best 
part of the foot. Six nails will do. I then take the rasp 
and file off the front of the foot round but flat for a space of 



13^ THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOEli. 

3 to 3J inches wide, and extending" about two-thirds of the 
way up the foot. The center of this space should be filed 
the most. The object of this is to take away the strength 
from the front of the foot, for it is the pressure coming* 
from the front which cramps or contracts the heel. — 
By J. H. 

Quarter Cracks and Contracted Feet. 

On the subject of quarter cracks and contracted feet, I 
will say that I use Prof. Mag-ner's expansive shoe or a com- 
mon, thin-heeled shoe or tip, which allows the heel and frog* 
to come in contact with the g-round. Either of these shoes 
will cure a quarter crack where a bar shoe fails to do so, 
and they are also the best shoes for contracted feet. I 




Fig. 75— Showing the Shoe used by " Vulcan " for Contracted Feet. 

would also advise, at the same time, the application of a 
mild blister around the coronet, not to draw a blister but 
simply to stimulate and cause growth. Use also veterinary 
vaseline or any other hoof ointment. Pare the foot as 3^ou 
would any common foot. If Mag'uer's shoe is used the 
spreader should be employed three times a Aveek and each 
time the shoe should be spread about -^^ of an inch. The 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



133 



shoe and spreaders ai^e shown in the illustration herewith. 
Fig^ 75 represents the shoe, Fig. 76 the spreaders, and Fig". 
77 shows the spreader C and B applied to the shoe A. 

To make the shoe, select and ordinary hand-made shoe, 
then take a piece of Norw^ay iron fXf, chamfer the end, 
then weld on the inside edge of the shoe, cut it off and 
chamfer to an edge. It should project below the hearing 
surface of the shoe from | to | of an inch. Then drill a f 




Fig. 76— Showing the Spreaders. 

hole in each side between the second and third nail holes 
and file into them to weaken the shoe so that it will spread 
easily. When fitted, the spurs on the wheels should fit into 
the commissures between the frog and bars. After the 
shoe is fitted, if the ends of the spurs press on the sole, file 
them olf a little. 

For a quarter crack there need be but one spur and one 
hole drilled. They must be on the same side as the quarter 



134 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



crack and that is generally the inside. M}^ theory is that 
quarter crack is caused by the shell growing- too small for 




Fig. 77- Showing the Spreader applied to the Shoe. 

the bones within it. When j^ou remove the pressure you 
cure the quarter crack. — By Vulcan. 

Contracted Feet and Quarter Crack. 

Almost every horseshoer has his own ideas with regard 
to doing certain kinds of work, and very often different 
shoers will accomplish the same end by very dissimilar 
means. For instance, in cutting down a hoof some cut the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



135 



toe well down and take notliing from the heel, while others 
cut down both. For contracted feet some shoers use a shoe 
ver}^ wide at the heel, reasoning- that the hoof will follow 
the shoe, while others believe that such a shoe has a tend- 
ency to contract the feet. 

I think there are general principles that ought to govern 
all shoers. I do not claim to have gone to the bottom of 
the matter, but I can give a few points that will at least be 
useful to beginners. In treating a case of contracted foot, 
I first remove the old shoe by carefully cutting all the 
clinches, and if possible remove each nail separatelj^ I 




Fig. 78— Bottom View of a Horse's Foot. Showing the Seat of Corns. 



then pare the hoof down to as near the natural form as 
possible. A hoof is never pared enough if any dead matter 
is left inside. 

One of the most important points in shoeing is to never 
allow a shoe to remain on the foot too long. While a shoe 
is on, the foot is prevented from wearing, the waste matter 
remains and in time will spoil the foot by rotting some of 
the essential parts, frog, braces, etc., and corns will be 
caused by the direct pressure from the bottom or by 
the side pressure from the spoiling of the braces or bars. 



186 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

Be sure that you never cut the braces lower than the outer 
horn, and always make the seat of a corn loAver than either. 

If the heel is contracted, and you have left the braces 
full, then make the shoe somewhat convex at the heel 
and let it curve directly under the heel of the foot 
— not outside, for that has a tendency to push the 
heel in. Leave it so that when it is nailed on, the 
hoof and shoe do not meet at the heel. There must be a 
space of one-eig-hth to three-sixteenths of an inch left 
there. Be careful not to burn the hoof, for that is very 
injurious, and be sure to make the shoe fit the horn of 
the hoof nicely. The outside hard part I call horn is what 
nature intended the horse to travel on, with perhaps some 
assistance from the frog. The shoe should bear evenly, 
and the nails used should not be too large. 

The cure for interfering is to make the inside of the shoe 
the highest. For extreme cases, behind, I make the in- 
side of my shoe nearly straight and very short ; the toe calh 
is about one-third the distance around the shoe from the 
inside heel, the outside of the shoe follows the horn well 
round, and the toe calk is ver^^ short. Where there is only 
a slight tendency to interfere, it will only be necessary to 
keep the toe a little around toward the inside, and perhaps 
a little the highest on the inside ; it is not a good plan to 
turn the inside heel in too much, for horses do not strike 
with it. Shoe in the same way for fore feet except in 
making the inside web much heavier than the outside. I 
see most shoers take particular pains to make the outside 
of the hoof look very smooth and nice regardless of the 
harm so done. They rasp off nature's covering wxll up to 
the hair, which is a great injury to the hoof. 

Some have called the outside the skin of the hoof, which 
I think is very proper. I advise being very careful not to 
disturb the outside more than is strictly necessary. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 137 

I generally put on over the crack a thin plate of iron 
held to place with about six screws, \vhich enter the horn 
about one-fourth of an inch. I weld on a calk in front of 
the crack, do not let the shoe bear back of it, and generally 
cover over with tar to keep out the dirt. A crack extending 
up the toe of the hoof clear through the horn and up to the 
hair is rather a serious matter, and requires careful treat- 
ment by a man who understands his business. 

Let me say again, do not cut away the frog. It is a 
cushion formed to g;Lve the horse ease on hard roads, 
and perhaps it also supphes the hoof with moisture. 
In the engraving annexed, Fig. 78, may be seen the 
various parts of the foot to which I have alluded : 1 
is the horn ; 2, the frog ; 3, the seat of corns, and 4 4 are 
the braces. 

Contraction — Interfering. 

I Avill give you in brief my experience in shoeing con- 
tracted feet. I shall not lay down any particular theory 
by which to shoe all horses, for I do not believe that all 
horses can be shod alike with good success. Flat feet do 
not generallj^ contract, but the reverse. 

Now, with regard to shoeing, the smith must use good 
judgment in preparing the foot to be shod. Some feet 
naturally want more paring than others. My method is 
to fit the feet as nearly natural as possible. Make the 
shoe level nearly two-thirds the way round, and convex 
the heels, commencing at or near the back nail hole of 
the common shoe, but do not punch the nail holes so far 
back as the common shoe, and only drive six nails in a 
shoe. The shoes should be removed once in three or four 
wrecks, according as the hoof spreads. Do not convex the 
shoe too much or you ma^^ cause quarter cracks. Let the 
shoe bear all around on the shell, but lightly on the heels, 



138 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER, 

and fit the shoe quite wide for a foundation to spread 
upon. I have practised this way for the last eight or ten 
3^ears, and have never known a case to fail if the owners 
followed my instructions in taking- care of the horses. — 
By H. V. Dudley. 

Contracted Feet — Poulticing. 

In my practice as horseshoer I have found that in many 
cases, if not a raajority^^contraction is the cause of stumbling, 
overreaching, interfering, etc. We can shoe and help 
matters, hut if we will at the same time soften and expand 
the foot we can effect a permanent cure, for when the foot 
is contracted, no treatment will cure the muscles that 
move the leg, because contraction of the foot is nearly 
always accompanied by wasting of the muscles of the breast, 
arm and shoulder, thereby bringing about an unnatural 
action. 

Stand in front of the horse, and notice the c^uarters of the 
hoof ; if they incline downward and inward, the hoof is con- 
tracted. The natural warmth of the hoof is the same as the 
air, and if the foot is warmer, it is not healthy. If the 
horse is lame, you will find the foot hard ; pull oft' the shoe 
and let the owner soak the animal's feet in flaxseed meal, 
made with boiling water like mush. Put in this poultice a 
little sal soda and let the feet remain poulticed twenty-four 
hours. If the horse must be shod first, before the poultice 
is applied, pull off the shoes, examine the feet to see if there 
are any corns ; if there are none and there is a large amount 
of hoof, remove some of it, so that the slope of the hoof is 
like the slope of the fetlock. Should the heels be low do 
not make them any lower ; open them up, but not enough 
to bring the blood, Aveaken the hoof a little between the 
bars and the point of the frog, and open deeply backward 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 139 

into the fissures of the frog- ; open the central frog»fissure a 
little, from base to point, the object being* to cause expan- 
sion to take place through the center of the hoof. 

Now for the shoe ; the best is a common convex shoe, 
with even bearing- alike on wall and sole, extending- one- 
half over the hoof. The outside of the shoe should extend 
no farther out than the wall. Bevel the heels of the slioe 
next to the wall outward from the heel nail hole out. Don't 
have a short shoe, but let it be long-, and remember that 
most stable floors slant backward, and an elevation of the 
heels will make the horse stand more at ease. When the 
shoe is ready nail it on the foot with as small nails as pos- 
sible. Don't draw up very tight, nor pare the sole. Use 
the poultice nig-ht and day if possible, and if in a short 
time the horse is not better, take off the shoe and examine 
to see where the trouble lies. Don't permit the owner of the 
horse to keep the shoes on more than four weeks, and a less 
time would be better. 

This is the way I treat contracted feet, and I have good 
success. Try it and you will find it makes a vast difference 
in the travel of the horse. — By Rab. 

Contracted Feet Should be Kept Moist. 

I will now give you my plan for shoeing- a horse w^ith con- 
tracted feet. If the feet are badly contracted I pare the 
soles very thin to make the feet spread easil^^ and fit the 
shoes beveled toward the outside edge from the last, nail 
hole to the end of the heel. Before the shoe is nailed on, a 
small sponge is placed on the sole and covered with a piece 
of leather, w^hich is nailed on with the shoe. Several small 
holes may be made in the leather for the admission of moist- 
ure. 

It is of great importance to keep the feet moist, so that 



1-iO 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



the frog will keep out the heels when they spread . If the 
feet are hut slig'htly contracted the soles need, not he pared, 
and the leather and sponge may he omitted. I do not like 
the idea of standing a horse in water that reaches to his 
ankles, for excessive moisture makes the hoof hrittle. All 
that is necessarj^ is to keep the sole and frog cool and soft, 
and this object can he attained with a packing of sponges, 
moss or felt.— ^^ Highland. 

Clipped Shoe for Contracted Feet. 

Concerning the shoeing of contracted feet, I think the 
shoe should he clipped on the inside of the heel in order to 




Fig. 79— Shoeing Contracted Feet, as done by C. W. Kohler. 

weaken it hack of the last nail as shown in the accompany- 
ing illustration, Fig. 79. The spreader is intended to spread 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 141 

the heel only and not to tear the wall of the foot from the 
sole. The main point is to keep the foot as short as pos- 
sible. 

I have shod horses in this way and secured a good open 
heel in about three months. In one of these cases tlie 
horse had been shod with the Roberge spring without be- 
ing benefited at all. 

Where one heel only is contracted I use Prof. Rich's half- 
bar shoe* and find it very efficacious, for there is generally 
some of the frog left in such afoot.— ^z/ Chas. W. Kohler. 



Form of Shoe for Contracted Feet. 

My way of shoeing contracted feet is as follows : 
Pare the sole of the foot so that it can be sprung with the 
thumb, then fit on a medium weight shoe, without calks, 
and make a clip as shown in the accompanying illustration, 




Fig. 80— Showing " F. E. B.'sl" Method of Shoeing Contracted Feet. 

FigTSO, on the inside of each heel, to set inside of the bars 
on each side of the frog ; then set the shoe and spread the 
heel a little at a time. The foot must spread and the clip 
takes the strain off the nails and spreads the foot at the 
heels, where it should be spread.— 5?/ F. E. B. 



* See "Artistic Horseshoeing " by Prof. Geo. E. Rich, published by 
M. T. Richardson^ New York. 



142 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



Improved Shoe for Contracted Feet. 

Various ideas are set forth as a preventive and a remedy 
for contraction. Nearly every one who thinks that he 
knows anytliing- about the disease at all has some peculiar 
notion of his own as to how and in what manner it should 
be treated. 

I will not} enter upon the subject to a very great ex- 




^^3. 



Fig. 81— Shoe used by Isaac A. Cavanagh for Contracted Feet. 

tent, nor touch upon the many theories that are advanced 
for the relief or permanent cure of the trouble. Neither 
will I consider the causes that bring- on the disease, nor 
prescribe an3^ new expedient for a permanent cure. I 
will simply set forth a mode of proceeding that in every 
ordinary case will be sure to give satisfactory results. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 143 

Suppose, then, that a horse havrng* a contracted foot is 
broug-ht to a shop to he shod. Say that he is a work horse. 
The owner, we will sa^^ is a poor man, who wants to work 
him if he can walk at all. He cannot afford to have his 
horse laid off for three or four weeks or more, and undergo 
a regular course of veterinary treatment. Under these 
circumstances, then, I would advise the following treat- 
ment : 

Examine the foot well, and if the heels have grown high 
and present a squeezed, tight-looking appearance, with the 
entire surface of the sole and frog extremely hard and hone- 
like, the first thing you should do is to rasp or pare down 
the heels and soles, so as to relieve the foot from this un- 
natural iron- clad compressure, if I may use the expression. 
Do not pare the sole too thin ; pare so that it will yield 
under strong pressure from 3^ our thumbs. Open out the 
heels iu good shape, hut do not pare between the frog and 
the bars ; keep that part solid and strong, but loosen every 
other part of the foot as much as you can without injury to 
the sole. 

The practical shoer will understand the sort of paring I 
mean better than any words of mine can convey to him. 
Now, having the foot ready, you can prepare the shoe some- 
what as follows : 

Any ordinary shoe will do, providing it has a moderately 
wide Aveb ; keep the nails well forward in the shoe, so that 
the foot will have every chance to spread. If it be a factory 
shoe, probably you need not put any nails in the back holes, 
particularly if the foot be short, which is seldom the case in 
contraction. Bevel the shoe on the outside of both webs, 
on the foot surface, commencing at a point about two inches 
from the center of the toe, and gradually beveling off to the 
ends of the heels. Towards the heels the shoe should have 
a good sloping bevel. The accompanying illustration, 



144 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



Fig". 81, shows how the foot surface of the shoe should look, 
and also the shape of the heels. 

Fit the shoe well to the foot, making- sure that it has an 
even and level bearing all around. If the job be well and 
neatly done, you will find that in the first shoeing the foot 
has improved. Use this kind of a shoe for two or three 



-A-- 




SECTION AT A B. 

Fig. 83— Shoe made by "M. J. S. N." for Contracted Feet, 



shoeings, in the meantime using some good foot ointment 
or preparation to soften and stimulate the growth of the 
foot. If you do this, take my word for it, all will go w^ell, 
and the owner will not lose money b}^ being obliged to lay 
the horse off for treatment.~J5?/ Isaac A, Cavanagh, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



145 



A Shoe for Contracted Feet. 

The accompanying' illustration, Fig-. 82, represents a 
horseshoe used by some smiths for spreading the heels 
of hoof-bound or contracted feet. The outside is beveled 
off so that when the weight comes on the foot it will tend 
to spread the hoof. The nail holes are made well forward, 
so as to allow the back or heel more room to expand. It 
will readily be seen that with a shoe so formed the pressure 
on the hoof will be considerable every time the horse makes 
a step.— 5i/ M. J. S. N. 



Shoeing a Mule's Contracted Foot. 

A man came to my shop once with a lame mule. The 
animal's feet were so contracted that he could hardly walk. 
A German veterinary surgeon came with the owner of the 




Fig . 83— Showing the Piece welded on the under side of the Heel for Contraction. 

mule and under this surgeon's instructions I did the shoe- 
ing as follows : 
I first made a shoe, using for the job a Burden's No. 2 




Fig. 84— Showing the Piece welded on the Inside. 

hind-shoe, and next welded a piece about 2 inches long on 
the under side of the heel on each side, as shown at Aj 



14G THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

in Fig". 83 of the accompanying engravings ; then a hole 
was drilled through each side, 3»^-inch in diameter, and a 
piece welded upon the inside and allowed to stick up half an 
inch from the top of the shoe as shown in Fig. 84, at B. I 
next made a f-inch round rod, long enough to reach across 
the shoe, and drew out each end small enough to enter the 



Fig, 85— Bottom View of the Shoe. 

holes drilled. A shoulder was left for the shoe to rest 
against. One of the ends was made long enough for an 
extra nut, as shown in Fig. 85. Then after cutting a thread 
upon the longest end up to the sholder, I opened or spread 
the shoe and screwed a nut down to the shoulder. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 147 

I next put one end of the little cross-bar into the shoe and 
then inserted the other end, and narrowed up the shoe, 
bringing it up tight to the shoulders. I leveled the foot, 
then took a ^-inch Avood chisel and cut just inside of the 
heel braces to allow the entrance of the pieces marked By 
in Fig. 84. 

When ever}^ thing was fitted nicely I nailed the shoes on 
the two front feet (which were the contracted ones), and 
then took a little wrench and spread the hoofs by screwing 
up the nut upon the spreading-bar.- The piece B took the 
strain from the nails : with an ordinary shoe, nails could 
not have been driven far enough back to spread the heels 
as did the piece B. 

The owner was told to give the bar a quarter turn around 
every day. The threads cut upon the cross-bar were 20 to 
the inch. In Fig. 85, a bottom view of the shoe is given. 
The mule had not been able to work for two years, but he is 
now cured. The surgeon gave the following prescription 
for a dressing — this was applied every day by pressing it 
into and around the frog and top of the hoof — Kosmalein, 4 
ounces ; ammonia, 2 ounces ; carbolic acid, 20 drops; new 
linseed oil, 1 pint.— ^?y ^' ^- Lyon. 

White Pine Pitch for Contracted Feet. 

I had a horse that had contracted feet very badl3^ I used 
white pine pitch on them, and was surprised to see what a 
good effect it had. It softened the hoof and it began to grow, 
and I believe if I had kept it on all the spring he would 
have had a foot as big as an elephant. I covered the foot 
all over, with the pitch melted so as to stick well. — By H. 
A. S. 



CHAPTER VI. 

CORNS AND HOW TO TREAT THEM. 

This difficulty though a prolific cause of trouble to all 
horseshoers has, for some reason or other, received less 
attention than its merits would seem to deserve. Such 
articles as have been contributed to the columns of the 
Blacksmith and Wheelwright, are presented in this chap- 
ter for the consideration of the reader. 

Shoeing to Prevent Corns. 

There have been many writers who have appeared to 
settle the question of the cause, prevention, and cure of 
corns, their theories being" all based upon the assumption 
that vertical pressure causes the corn. Respectfully I ask 
that such writers go a little deeper into the subject and see 
if the facts do not point to transverse pressure as the 
cause, and to vertical pressure, rightly applied, as the pre- 
ventive and cure, where cure is possible. Will the writer 
who advises paring out the sole and concaving the shoe so 
that the entire hoof contact shall be with the shell only, 
explain wh}^ it is necessary to prevent the sole from taking 
an^^ part of the pressure as far as possible ? Of course, the 
answer may be : 

" Because sole pressure makes the corns, and removing 
sole pressure will cure them." 

But, some of us don't accept this. We believe that all 
parts of the foot have functions to perform, and that 
removing vertical pressure by digging out the sole, concav- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 149 

ing the shoe to the extent advocated by some, cutting" away 
the hoof at the quarters, orsprhiging the shoe off, instead of 
being curative is injurious, in that it aggravates the real 
difficulty — i.e., transverse pressure caused by contraction. 
Nature's own cure for which is vertical pressure in a proper 
way with every step the horse takes, tending to expand the 
foot. 

It is possible, of course, that there may be some hidden 
meaning, some mysterious knowledge not vouchsafed to 
ordinary mortals back of the statement of the smith who, as 
he fits the shoe to a slightly contracted hoof, the inner 
quarter slightly wired in, sa^^s : ^^ I want to give all the 
room I can on that inner quarter." 

What does he do ? Spreads the heels of the shoe apart. 
Puts the narrowed, pinched heel between rather than 
squarely on top of the heels of the shoe, and the chances 
are that the top surface of the shoe at the heels upon which 
this slight bearing is made Avill be beveled inward. Per- 
haps there is a reason why a foot shod this way, '*with a 
good, broad, open heel," as it is called, should find relief; 
but there are those who don't see it, and such contend that 
the hoof should rest upon a level surface, and that the heels 
of the shoes should be kept in where all of the back part of 
the hoof which would bear upon a level surface sliall be, on 
the shoe, never between to hold the foot from expanding at 
every step, as it inevitably would if it rested upon a level 
surface. There are those who advocate beveling the top of 
the shoe at the quarters and heels outward to increase the 
tendency to expand from vertical pressure. In modei'ation 
this may be, for some feet, a good thing, but to bevel them 
inward, as hundreds of them are, inust put the horse to 
excruciating torment at every step. I have in mind a pair 
of forward shoes which were taken from a lame horse and 
replaced with a pair the top surfaces of which were made 



150 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

strictly level, or plain, by a straigl^tedge, the result being 
that inside of a Aveek the horse went perfectly sound and 
the shoer was looked upon b,y its owner as a most wonder- 
ful man. The old shoes have been kept, and it is m^^ belief 
that the inside of the web at the heels is fully one-eig-hth of 
an inch lower than at the outside ! On such a shoe the foot 
was practically in a dish, to be pinched as b}^ a vise at each 
step.— ^2/ S. W. Goodyear. 

Corns in Horses' Feet. 

What is a corn in a horse's foot, and what are the 
causes of it ? In attempting* to answer this question I 
would say, in the first place, that misplaced blood pro- 
duces the corn appearance, on the same principle as a 
bruise. The blood settles under the nail of a jammed 
fing-er. It is similar in a horse's foot. When the hoof 
grows down and the bottom of the foot has been cut off 
times enough to show the corn or i^ed appearance, every 
one with common consent says the horse has corns. It 
is blood out of place which gives the corn or red color. 
The horse might have been lame months before the corn 
made its appearance on the bottom, in the angle between 
the crust^ hoof and bar. 

It is said that the cause of corns is bad shoeing, shoes 
badly fitted, short shoes, overmuch cutting aAvaj^ of the 
heel, etc., etc. Usuall^^, I think, these hurts are the 
results of letting shoes stay on a longer time than the3^ 
ought at one setting. The shoe goes forward with the 
growth of the foot, and the heel of the shoe drops off into 
the angle between the crust and the bar. 

Fever in the foot for any cause, such as improper 
watering, feeding-, sudden chills, an unusual drive, with 
improper care when released or stabled, in fact, from 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESKOER. 151 

anything that interferes with the natural circulation of 
the blood in the foot or that cuts off the circulation in 
tlie vicinit}^ of the gerin of the corn, which is at the 
wing- or widest point of the paddle bone, may be a cause 
of this difficulty. Thus, when the hoof has contracted 
for any cause, so that the shell of the foot rests on the 
bone, and has cut off the circulation, the result is similar 
to a bruise. It is misplaced blood, or a dead spot or a 
spot destitute of circulation, consequently^ it becomes 
sore and inflamed, and the hoof ceases to grow naturally. 
The red or corn appearance sometimes shows itself over 
various parts of the entire sole of the foot for similar 
reasons. — By S. S. 

Cause and Treatment of Corns. 

I think the owners of horses are, in a measure, to 
blame, but there may be cases where the shoer is at 
fault. Owners will not have shoes removed at the prop- 
er time, and the shoe, as a consequence, becomes bedded 
in the quarter or root of the corn. In such cases the 
shoer cannot be wholh^ to blame. I think the shoe should 
follow the shell of the foot, but not encroach upon the 
frog, nor bear more than equally on the heel. If left 
wide at the heel, contraction is apt to result. 

In treating corns I have had good results by using 
butter of antimony — five drops at an application. Two 
applications will generally effect a cure in bad cases. — By 
G. H. Del. 

Shoeing to Cure Corns. 

A YQvy good way to shoe a horse that has corns is as 
follows : Weld a toe calk lengthwise on the heel of the 



152 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

shoe/ set the toe on the inside of the shoe, or on the 
inside edges, and cutting- out of a rubber boot leg a piece 
the same size as the shoe, put it under the shoe. — By A. 
C. A. 

Shoeing for Corns. 

My way of curing horses that have corns, or are hoof- 
bound as we conjmonl^^ call it, is as follows : 

I use a common factory-made shoe that is not too 
light, the weight being made to depend upon the weight 
of the horse. The shoe has a toe and heel that are the 
same as those on the ordinary shoe, but I am careful 
not to have the toe too high, and I spring the heel away 
from the hoof behind at least one-fourth of an inch just 
behind the last nail, which should not be too close to the 
heel. That will expand the hoof half an inch or more in 
less than a year and the corn will disappear. When a 
quick cure is needed I cut the corn out well and burn black 
with a hot iron. — By A. B. 



CHAPTER VII.. 

INTERFERING AND OVER-REACHING. 

It will be observed by a careful perusal of this chapter 
that the methods of different slioers differ considerably. 
As in each case recited, the shoer has presumably met 
with more or less success Avith the plan sug-gested, it 
seems the dut}^ of the editor to present the various meth- 
ods described, and permit shoers to select such as seem 
to fit the particular case they may have to treat. 

How to Shoe Interfering Horses. 

The subject of interfering- eng-rosses the attention of 
horse-shoers and those who use horses, to a greater 
extent than anyone unacquainted witli the subject would 
suppose. 

This defect in a valuable horse is of serious moment to 
those who value speed or require it in their business. 
It is said by many that the real cause of interfering is 
weakness in the limbs. There are cases Avhere this cause 
is probably the correct one, and many others where it 
cannot be entertained at all. Interfering- is a great mis- 
fortune to a horse, and to be remedied, requires strict 
observation and a practical understanding of the move- 
ments of horses' limbs. Horses that interfere front and 
behind, and also forge, require from the smith the exer- 
cise of considerable patience and judgment in the choice 



154 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



of a method of shoeing", which will give the most satisfac- 
tory results. 

In \ shoeing- the hind feet some weight the shoe, the 
outer half being wider than the inner. Others cut away 
the outside of the hoof, thus causing the foot to lean out 
and throwing the fetlock joint into an angular position, 
the shoe being level. This device produces an unnatural 
gait, and is a continual punishment to the animal as 
long as the angularit^\^ lasts. 

Bare-footed horses seldom interfere, and when they do 
so, it is caused by carelessness on the part of those who 




Fig. 86— A Half Bar Shoe for Interfering. 



care for fhem, in not having the superfluous hoof 
removed by the rasp. A horse that has his hoofs pared 
level and the shoe also level, with the inner part of the 
shoe having a slightly greater radius than the outer 
part, with two nails just inside the toe, or none at all in 
severe cases, the shoe to be set under well and a clip put 
on the outside between the toe and quarter, will often give 
good results. 

Projecting nails cause cutting in nine cases where the 
shoe does in one. For a horse that is almost incurable 
in striking, a half -bar shoe, made as shown in accompa- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 1-55 

iiying illustration, Fi^. 86, will be found very serviceable. 
A half-bar shoe is one with a plate extending" from the 
inner half of the shoe resting- on the frog. This allows 
more area for the Aveight to rest on, and removes it from 
the sole of the foot. Some horses never strike below a 
six-mile gait, but between that and eleven-mile gait there 
is often some fearful striking. 

Speed horses should never be shod heavy behind. A 
horse can pick his limbs up better when not burdened 
with metal. The cords of the legs can be controlled bet- 
tei* when taxed to give momentum to a Aveight of iron 
not required. 

The setting in of the shoe can also be observed when 
the horse strikes Avith the front feet. Reduce tlie size of 
the foot by cutting aAvay the toe as much as possible. 
Let the angularity commence at the heel, and relieve the 
toe of as much hoof as the circumstances alloAA\ This is 
an adA^antage, as the hoof is reduced in size and brought 
outside the line of danger in traA^eling. And this is all 
that is required. 

When a shoe begins to bend it has passed its point of 
usefulness, and should be remoA^ed at the earliest oppor- 
tunity. A Avarping shoe is most injurious to a horse's 
foot. Many horsemen never think of tracing the ail- 
ments of their horses' feet to Avarping shoes ; but they 
are an incessant source of danger. It often takes Aveeks' 
time and loss of service to eradicate evils AAiiich they 
produce.—-^!/ C. S. 

t 

Bad Case of Interfering Cured. 

An othePAvise valuable horse Avas an incorrigible inter- 
ferer forAvard. He struck all the aa ay from the ankle to 
the knees, according- to the speed at Avhich he Avas driA-en, 



156 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

and had to be booted anew often, for he literally wore his 
boots out in a short time. All the smiths in town who be- 
lieved they could stop him had tried and failed. 

A shoer from out of town having- heard of the horse 
Avhile on a visit, said he would like to shoe him, and Avas in- 
vited b}^ a local shoer to use his shop and tools for the pur- 
pose. Turning a pair of shoes, removing the old ones, 
paring the feet, doing all the worl^: of setting and finishing 
off the feet himself, in a self-reliant and handy way, in a 
strange shop, showed the man to be a Avorkman. 

The shoes were made with the web on the outside very 
much heavier and wider than on the inside. They were an 
exageration of the shape used by some of the best drivers 
of trotters to make a horse travel wider both forward and 
behind. A long, high side-calk was put on the inside web. 
There were no heel calks or toes put on. It seemed, to 
look at the awkward things, as though it would be a clear 
case of cruelty to animals to make horses wear them. The 
side-calk was more than an inch high.' 

*^ Won't it break his legs, or lame him to cant the feet 
over so much ?'^ I asked. The answer was : 

^^ If this horse is ever made to go without hitting, its g-ot 
to be done by busting his gait. I think I can bust his gait 
with these shoes." 

When the job Avas done, the horse was driven half a doz- 
en miles or more. The roads were muddy, so that had he 
hit there would have been marks. Not a mark could be 
seen. Said the driver, ^^I have driven him up and down 
hill, and on level ground, from a walk to a 2:50 clip. It is 
the most wonderful thing I ever kncAv ! If jo\x had driven 
him the distance of a block before he would have hit a doz- 
en times." 

Said the shoer who had wroug-ht the change, *' I would 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 157 

use a lower calk next time, and when his g-ait is thoroughly 
'busted,' when he g-ives up his old way of going* for good, 
he can be let down level." 

This was one case; may there not be others like it ? If 
among our score or more of shops this horse found no cure 
of his knocking until by chance an outsider took up the 
case, wh}' is it not reasonable to suppose that there may be 
other places in which this wrinkle has been untried, but 
would be just the thing ? Only for extreme cases would I 
advocate this plan.— ^2/ S- W* GtOODYEAR. 

Shoeing Interfering Horses. 

I will give my plan for shoeing horses for interfering in 
front feet. 

In the first place pare the foot perfectly level, then have 
your shoe the same thickness on both sides, but have the 
web of the outside of the shoe a little wider than the inside 
in order to have it some heavier on the outside. Then if 
the horse strikes 'with the inside quarter or between the 
quarter and toe of the foot, as is generally the case, begin 
straightening the shoe a little forward of the place that 
does the cutting. Make the inside of the shoe almost 
straight, leaving the inside heel as far away from the frog- 
as possible, and have the inside of the shoe a little longer 
than the outside. Chamber the shoe where it does the cut- 
ting from the upper and inner edge to the nail heads, and 
have the shoe fit in close enough at that point to let the 
hoof extend over the shoe about one-eighth of an inch and 
the round sharp edge with the rasp. After you have the shoe 
fitted be careful to set the toe directl}^ opposite the point of the 
frog. I have had good success with several bad cases in 
this way,— ^?/ C, J. T, 



158 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

The Cause of Interfering and its Remedy. 

With reg-ard to interfering horses my experience is that 
when the hoof is even, as in the case of a colt that has 
never been shod, there is never any interfering-. By an 
even hoof 1 mean one on which, taking- the frog- from the 
center of the foot, I find about as mucli hoof inside the frog- 
as outside of it. This perfectly level bearing* of the feet in- 
side and outside prevents all twisting- or sidewise motions 
of the limbs while they are in motion. On the other hand, 
I find that in nine cases out of ten where two-thirds of the 
hoof is outside the frog the horses are knee-knockers and 
interferers. I think interfering' is chiefly due to bad shoe- 
ing-, that is bj^ the smith taking a little more off the inside 
every time the horse is shod. This destroys the equal bear- 
ing and then the horse begins to interfere. To remedy it 
the hoof must be brought out on the inside and taken off on 
the outside. — By L. K. 

Interfering. 

With reference to interfering between horses' hind feet, I 
have employed the following method for over ten years, 
and it has given good satisfaction. I pare the outside of 
the foot the lowest and leave the inside the highest. I 
make my shoes the thickest on the inside and draw them as 
narrow as I can conveniently^ I make the outside the 
thinnest, and of ordinary width. I fit the shoes as narrow 
from the toe to the heel of the inside as possible, so as not 
to get the nails too deep in the foot. I fit the outside the 
same as an^^ other shoe. 

My idea is to have the foot the highest on the inside, 
which throws the pastern joint out from the other foot when 
it is set on the ground and while the opposite foot passes it 
in making the step. I fit the shoe a little narrow on the in- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



159 



side and take care not to rasp the foot quite to the shoe, so 
that the shoe itself will not be apt to strike. Considerable 
judg-ment is necessaiy to be exercised upon the part of the 
smith to be successful in cases of this kind. Nothing short 
of experience will take him through. It should be remem- 
bered that sometimes a horse cuts with the heel ; other 
times it is with the toe, hence it is not alwa^^s necessary to 
fit the shoe narrow at both toe and heel. It is well, how- 
ever, to do so on the first trial. — By G. W, D. 

A Cure for Interfering — A Calk Swage. 

A few words on the subject of interfering- may be of inter- 
est for the reason that it is a matter on wiiich no two shoers 




Fig. 87— A Shoe for Interfering Horses. 

agree. What will cure one horse will often cause another 
to interfere. In ordinary cases paring the foot perfectly 



160 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



level, fitting the shoe veiy close and leavrng" out the heel 
nail on the inside, ^vill elt'ect a cure. The clinch from the 
heel nail working' up often causes interfering-. In bad cases 
I use a shoe like that shown in Fig*. 87 of the accompanying 
illustrations. This shoe should be forg-ed of the same thick- 
ness all around. I usualh^ make the inside about one-half 
inch and the outside one inch in width, with a gradual taper in 
the toe. If this shoe is properly fitted to the foot it will stop 
the worst case of interfering. I am opposed to rocking, ^ e., 
paring all on one side, as that is a direct cause of crooked 
and weak ankles. I admit that it will often prevent inter- 




Fig. 88 -A Swage for Calks. 



fering, but the " remedy is worse than the disease." The 
useful little tool shown in Fig. 88 is a calk swage that I 
often find convenient in upsetting and squaring sharp calks 
and also in welding toe calks that have been partially loos- 
ened by sharpening. I think any explanation in regard 
to it unnecessary, as its construction is clearly shown in the 
cnt—Bij C. H. H. 



A Shoe for Interfering Horses. 

I will describe my wa^^ of shoeing interfering horses. 
Most smiths in shoeing an interfering horse, pare the foot 
on one side, a quarter or half an inch lowei' than on the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



161 



other. Sometimes the paring' is done on the inside and 
sometimes on the outside. Now, I was taught to pare 
the foot lower on the outside, taking* out one-quarter of 
an inch so as to make the horse wide between the ankles. 




Fig. 89— A Shoe made by "J. J." for Interfering Horses. 



I was told to make the shoe with about the same differ- 
ence in heig'ht, the outside being* about a quarter of an 
inch the lower. It is clear that by this method the 
horse's leg's are strained all the time, ^nd the bearing- is 
all on the inside of the shoe, consequently the shoe will 
not remain on the foot long. My present method of shoe- 
ing is shown in the accompan3ang illustration, Fig. 89. 
The shoe is made wide on one side and of the same thick- 
ness, consequently when the horse stands upright on his 
feet there will be no strain, but when he puts up his foot 



162 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

to move, the wide or heavy side of the shoe, being- on the 
inside, has a tendenc^^ to throw his feet or ankles apart. — 
By J. J. 

Fitting Shoes, Curing Overreaching and hiterfering. 

I took two premiums in Indiana for horseshoeing', and 
therefore 3'our readers may be interested in my methods 
of doing such work. 

I first pare the hoof level, then fit the shoe to the hoof 
cold. If the horse is one that loses shoes easily, I drive the 
nails wedge shape, turning the points of the two toe 
nails toward tlie heel and the points of the heel nails to 
the toe. This makes a very strong job. If the horse 
interferes I rasp the outside of the hoof a very little low- 
er than the inside and never turn the inside calk under 
the hoof as man}" smiths do to stop interfering. 

For overreaching I pare the heel of the front hoof the 
lowest, and make the heel of the shoes thin and the toe thick. 
The hind shoe should have a thin toe and a thick heel, leav- 
ing the hoof high at the heel and turning the toe all it will 
bear. This will cure the worst cases. I think good nails 
are very essential to good shoeing. The main object of the 
smith should be to get the shoe fitted level and flat on 
the foot before the nails are driven. It Avill not answer 
to depend on the nails drawing the shoe to the hoof. — By 
J. CD. 

Shoeing to Prevent Interfering. 

The majority of horses strike with the edge of the 
shoe or clinches, usually between the toe and heel nail. 
They do not strike witli the heel calk, as a great many 
shoers think. It is onl}' occasionally that a horse is 
found that strikes with the heel calk. Veiy few horses 
have a natural tendency to strike. The habit is usually 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 163 

broug-ht on by careless driving. Over-driving-, causing' the 
horse to become leg" weary, is a common cause of the diffi- 
culty. Allowing- the shoes to remain on too long- until the 
clinches work out, or the animal becomes smooth in the 
winter, or on ic\" roads, is also a cause. Some horses 
strike v.iien they become poor or thin in flesh. 

By attention to the sore ankles thus caused without 
chang-ing- the shoeing-, they g-et entireh^ over the habit 
W'hen they are ag-ain in g-ood condition. The first thing-, 
therefore, necessary to be done is to find out wiiat- partic- 
ular part of the shoe the horse strikes with. My plan is 
to straig"hten out that part and clinch down smooth, 
rasping- away the shell. If the horse is poor, I prescribe 
more feed and careful attention to the sore ankles. If 
he strikes from over-driving-, I straig-hten a little and 
prescribe more careful handling-. In the w^orst cases in win- 
ter time, I turn the outside heel calk, not the inside one, as 
some shoers recommend, in order to keep the foot from 
working- in after it is placed on the g-round. I shoe often 
enoug-h to keep the horse from slipping-. I think if these 
rules are intellig-ently followed by any shoer, he will have 
no difficulty with cases of this kind. It often requires two, 
and sometimes three, trials, especially if the horse has sore 
ankles, before a cure is effected. Some owners think that 
the smith should stop the worst cases and heal up the sore 
ankles b}^ the first shoeing-. This is unreasonable, as manj^ 
readers will doubtless ag-ree. — By F. H. S. 

Interfering. 

Tliere are many w^ays to lessen, to some extent, the in- 
terfering- of a horse, but what is applicable to one is not al- 
w^ays g'ood for another, and the more methods we are ac- 
quainted w'ith the more likely we are to select one which 
w ill prove serviceat)le. 



164 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



The following- may be of ad vantag-e to some shoers : 
Pi-epare the shoe as shown in Fig\ 90, having no heel on 




Fig. 90— Design for an Interfering Shoe with Side Calk. 

the inside. Lret the heig-ht of the iron answer for a heel, 
the same as the ordinary style of interfering- shoe. Have a 




Fig. 91— Front View, Showing Calk on the Inside at A and the Angle of the Foot. 

heel on the outside of the shoe. Weld a calk about one and 
a quarter inches long- back of the inside nail holes (as per 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



165 



sketch at A) on the inside of the shoe. Bevel the toe calk 
off on the outside. Have the outside heel calk lower than 
the inside of the shoe. When done place the shoe on a 




level surface and see that all the bearings touch. Heat and 
hot file the inside from the toe back as far as is required to 
an under level, and to within a little of the nail holes so as 
to remove all unnecessary projecting* metal (for this pur- 




Fig. 93— Inside View of Hind Foot, Showing the Calk A and Toe Calk. 

pose draw down the ends of a rasp, not fit for the floor, put 
two handles on it and you then have the best of double- 
handed files, with temper enough left in its center for all 



166 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

practical purposes). Leave the inside of the shoe^, for some 
length, nearly straig-ht if the horse is strong* limbed, and 
leave the heels as wide as possible. This increases the area 
of bearing', but if the backing- strap in going- down hill 
draws his feet tog-ether it is essential that the inside heel 
should be quite thin and carried out of the line of danger, 
circumstances control Img ni this point as in man^^ others. 
Harden the inside of the toe calk and not the outside, thus 
retaining the level of the shoe as long as possible. Horse- 
shoeing allows of no set method. — By G. S. 

Interfering. 

My method is, in the first place, to find what part of the 
hoof or the shoe comes in contact with the ankle. If the 
hoof does not show an^^ mark, take a piece of chalk or a 
little tar and i^ub it on the ankle and start the horse. Let 
the horse be examined carefully until the smith has assured 
himself just what part of the hoof or shoe comes in contact 
with the ankle.. If a horse strikes with the toe at the first 
or second nail, straighten the shoe at that point and raise 
the inside calk a little so as to throw the ankle outward. 
If he strikes with the heel of the foot, straighten the shoe 
from the second toe nail back to the heel and take off the 
hoof at that point. 

Some horses do not come in contact with the shoe ; it is 
the hoof that strikes. If a horse strikes with the heel calk 
turn it under a little. Apply the same methods with chalk 
or tar Avith the fore foot. If the horse interferes with the 
toe straighten that part of the shoe. If with the toe of the 
hoof at about the first or second nail where they are 
clinched, rasp the hoof away as much as it will bear, and 
lay in the clinches so as to be sure they will not work out, and 
raise the inside heel calks as much as may be deemed best. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 167 

If a horse's ankle stands in, or if his hoof appears as though 
the toe of the hoof was turned outward, raise the outside 
three-eighths of an inch higher than the opposite side. If 
in winter time let the inside calk be blunt and sharpen the 
outside. If the horse is heavy and ivell spread, weight the 
outside web twice as much as the inside. 

If a horse strikes his knee, or is what we call a knee- 
knocker, the remedy to be applied is as follows : Fit up a 
common shoe letting the inside of the toe calk project over 
the slioe one-fourth or three-eighths of an inch. Let the 
outside of the calk be a little short so that the toe will wear 
on the outer corner. If the horse strikes below the knee 
the smith ca,n take a heavier shoe and straighten it a little 
more than usual at the inside, back of the toe. — By J. I. 



Interfering — Overreaching — Hot and Cold Fitting. 

Probably there is no one thing there are so many theories 
about as the matter of horseshoeing. Now I want to say 
to all 3^oung men and new beginners, don't ever get a pet 
theory upon any subject. If you do, you will just as cer- 
tainly fail as did the quack doctor who doctored an English- 
man and cured him, and afterward doctored a Fj'enchman 
who had the same disease, and gave him the same treatment 
and he died. The doctor set it down in his memorandum 
book that what would cure an Englishman would kill a 
Frenchman. Now you may take two horses that interfere 
and shoe them just alike ; and you may cure the one and make 
the other worse, aud the same is true of overreaching 
horses. 

What is the cause ? It is this : N(. two horses are 
exactly alike iu an^'^ particular ; neither do they travel alike, 
or even stand still alike. In the matter of interfering the 
shoer must look his horse over and see him travel in order 



168 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

to arrive at anything' like a correct idea of what is needed 
in his case. 

For instance, a horse that hits forward, if he is a thick- 
breasted, well spread animal, generally needs a different 
kind of shoe from the thin horse, with both legs close 
together. If the shoer, or any one else, will stand in front 
or behind the thick, well-spread horse, when he is travel- 
ing-, if he interferes, he will observe that when he lifts his 
feet it is done with a roll or swing inwards. That horse 
wants to be shod with a shoe of equal thickness all round 
but twice as wide on the outside, to weight the outside of 
the foot and make it balance. 

If, however, your horse is thin, and his legs are close 
together, and he travels close, you want to make the shoe 
the thickest on the inside and straighten it a little in the 
spot where he hits. With the hind feet I have but little 
trouble. You should take particular notice how the horse 
stands and travels. If he carries his feet straight, pare the 
foot a little, the lowest on the outside, and set the shoe in a 
little on the inside, but if j^our horse toes out, as a great 
manj^ do, set your shoe well round upon the inside toe and out 
at the heel, and trim off the outside toe, so as to make him 
travel square. These are general directions, and with me 
the treatment described has been successful in cases of 
interfering. 

I have always found overreaching more difficult to over- 
come, but here again do not get ?ii\y pet theory in your 
head. If I do not succeed the first time, I trj^ some other 
method. Were I to shoe a horse that I had never seen 
before and knew nothing about, I should put heavj^ shoes in 
front and light ones behind ; if this did not help the matter 
I would put on light ones all round ; or I would set the toe 
calk well back on the hind shoe and set the shoe nearly 
flush with the rim of the foot (no half-inch back for me); put 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 169 

the heel calks of the front shoe one-half or three-quarters 
of an inch from the heel, and bevel the heel from the ground 
side to nearl}^ a point. Horses g*enerally outg-i^ow this dis- 
agreeable habit as they g'row older. I observe that one 
shoer recommends using nothing but hind shoes. Now I 
think that all wrong, for this reason : There are many 
horses that have a very Avide, flat foot ; if you use narrow 
shoes there is nothing to protect the bottom of the foot, 
and it is growing worse all the time ; but if you use a shoe 
with a wide web it will take an equal part of the pressure 
and keep the foot from sagging down. 

I wish to say a few Avords about the much-talked-of sub- 
ject, '"' Hot and Cold Fittings." I am for hot fitting in the- 
orj^ and cold in practice. But some one will sa3" that is 
inconsistent. M3'' reason is, that while I do not believe a 
shoe can be fitted to a horse's foot so nicely in any other 
way as when hot, I usually fit cold to please my customers, 
who know no more about a horse's foot than the^^ do about 
the intei'nal arrangement of the kingdom of Heaven. 
There seems to be considerable talk about what is hot and 
cold fitting. I do not believe in heating a shoe Avhite hot, 
and burning the foot doAvn Avithout using the butteris or 
knife, but I do believe in having the shoe moderately red. 
Then place it on the foot and burn a little and pare a little 
until you get the foot to the proper size and shape. Do not 
have your shoe too cold, for if you do you may keep it on 
so long as to heat the foot through and injure it. — By 
Granite State. 

Interfering, How to Prevent it. 

In regard to interfering, I have had the best success Avith 
horses that interfere by paring the foot as small as it will 
do. HaA^e the foot perfectly level, then fit the shoe to the 



ITO 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



foot, not tlie foot to the shoe. Do not fit the inside of the 
slioe under the foot, and the outside full, but keep tlie 
inside of the shoe fall and instead of putting' a clip on the 
outside of the shoe put it on the inside of the shoe, about 
one- third the leng'th of the shoe from the heel. I have 
found that this plan will stop the .worst kind of cases of 
interfering" if the ankles are. not too badly swollen. — By 
G. F. J. 

Curing an Interfering Horse. 

Some time ago a young man came into my shop with a 
fine black filh^ that^ was interfering badly, and asked me if 
I could cure her. Looking at the animal's legs I remarked 




Fig. 04 — A Shoe for Interfering Horses. 

it was asking a good deal of a man to cure her in the condi- 
tion she then was in. I believe I would be safe in saying 
that a circle of an inch and a half would not have covered the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. iTi 

space on her legs that was raw and bleeding'. But I m- 
fornied him I would do the best I could, and I cured that 
mare. As ni}^ manner of treating such cases maj^ be of 
benefit to some of my brother mechanics, I will describe it. 
I do not use a regular interfering shoe, for I find it will not 
work in a bad case of interference. Of course, I prepare 
the foot carefully, leaving the inside a little the higher, if 
possible. I then take any shoe and raising the heel calk 
on the inside, put my toe calk considerably past the center 
on the inside, leaving the outside calk plain, in other words 
without any calk, as shown in the illustration, Fig. 94. I 
have never known this mode of shoeing to fail in the very 
worst case. — By C. E. C. 

Corns — Interfering — Overreaching — Welding Toe-Calks 

• — Cold Fitting. 

Nine persons out of ten will sa^^ that corns in horses' feet 
are caused by bad shoeing. My experience will justify me 
in saying that nine-tenths of the corns are caused by the 
owners of horses neglecting to get them shod as often as 
they ought. We are nearly all agreed that horses should 
be shod as often as once in every four to seven ^-^-eeks, ac- 
cording to circumstances. Now, a great many horse own- 
ers, particularly^ farmers, will get a team shod, and, unless 
the horse becomes lame, will permit the i^hoes to remain on 
until they groiv off. 

If the horse has a round foot and the shoe was fitted 
close all around, in four or five weeks the shoe will have 
been carried forward by the growth of hoof, so that one or 
both of the heels Avill be off the wall, and in a short time 
corns will be produced. Now, if the owner would take his 
horse to the shop on some fixed date ever\^ month, instead 
of leaving the shoes on from seven to twenty weeks, horses 



1T2 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

would have fewer corns. In shoeing- 1 prefer a wide heel 
and mule the heels of the forward shoes whether they have 
corns or not, ou horses that have flat feet. 

For interfering', level the foot and fit the shoe all around 
close. Then mule the inside heel slightly. In winter it is 
a good plan to turn the outside heel-calk, as it keeps the 
fcot out of the trough of the road. 

For overreaching I have the best success shoeing with 
long shoes all around. Let the heels of the forward shoes 
stick out an inch and the hind shoes three-quarters of an 
inch. As the forward foot raises the long shoe will raise 
enough so the hind foot Avill pass under, while with a short 
one the shoe will raise just enough for the hind shoe to hit 
the heels, causing a disagreeable clicking. I can do better 
and quicker work with knife and rasp than Avith butteris. 

If the foot is grown out very long I take the cutting pli- 
ers and nip the hoof off from quarters to toe. This insures 
the removal of the stubs of nails, and with a sharp knife 
and rasp, the foot is soon ready. I practice cold fitting-, 
although I clo not think a thick shelled foot is injured by 
touching it with a red hot shoe that was previously fitted. 

A thin-shelled foot I never press with a hot shoe. I was 
taught to weld toe-calks on shoes first and heel up after- 
wards, but I practice heeling shoes first and put on the toe- 
calk when ready to use the shoe. If you toe last there will 
be heat enough in the shoe after welding the calk to fit the 
shoe. I let the heels, which are nearly cold, drop on the 
wall of the foot and hold the toe, which is red hot, an inch 
awaj' from the foot while fitting. After the shoe is fitted and 
level, harden the toe and nail on. I know a great man^' 
advocate lieating a shoe red hot after the foot is prepared 
and the shoe fitted and press the foot for an instant with 
the hot shoe. But all the advantage tliey claim is an equal 
bearing" and that the shoe will be less liable to come off. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



173 



ISTow I can with knife and rasp get as good a bearing, and 
with a good nail fasten the shoe so that it will stay longer 
than it ought.— By J. W. Nichols. 

Shoeing for Interfering. 

My way of shoeing a horse that interferes in front at the 
toe, is shown in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 95. I 
take a piece f-inch steel and make a pair of shoes to fit the 
feet, making the outer side the heaviest in the web, but 




Fig. 95— A Shoe for Interfering Horses, as Made by " C. H. M." 

allowing the shoe to be no heavier on the inner side. I use 
two nails on the inner side, two at the toe, and four on the 
outer side, and I take care to fit the toe nicel3^ — By C. H. M. 

Shoeing to Prevent Interfering. 

M}^ experience is that all horses that interfere are not 
cu^*ed by the same shoeing. Turning the ankle in or out, 
as most smiths are in the habit of doing, has different 



74: 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



effects upon different horses. The result depends entirely 
upon the action of the animal and the manner of striking-. 
My method in most cases is to pare the foot to the shape 
given it by nature as nearlj^ as possible. Then 1 fit the 
shoes, rig-hts and lefts, leaving- the inside of the shoe 
straig'hter than the wall of the foot. 
If the season of tlie year is such that the g-round is icy, 




Fig, 96— A Shoe Made by " R A. M." for Interfering Horses. 

1 turn the outside instead of the inside calks, as the snow 
path is always deepest in the middle. For this reason the 
outside calks strike first and so stop the tendenc\^ to slide 
and thus strike the other ankle. Another advantag-e in 
turning' the outside instead of the inside calk is that the 
horse is less liable to injure himself by calking'. I nail the 
shoe to fit the outside and toe, and fit both heels the same 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 175 

as in shoeing", unless the horse toes out. In that case I 
turn the inside calk under more. I take good care to drive 
the nails on the inside of the foot high and clinch smooth. 
The hoof is then rasped smooth and left a little flush on the 
shoe. This remedy, I find, very rarely fails to cure. — By 
C. H. W. 



Toe-Tips — A Shoe for Interfering Horses. 

My way of shoeing- a horse that interferes is as folloAvs : 
I take a very wide webbed shoe, as shoAvn in the illustra- 
tion, Fig. 9^, and cut it the length I want it. I then split 
the inside bar of the shoe from about the corner of the toe 
to the heel, taking off about one-third the weight of the 
inside of the shoe, which, when properl^^ put on, makes the 
horse travel wider. I never knew this shoe to fail in any 
case.— 5?/ R. A. M. 



To Shoe an Overreaching Horse. 

The horses that overreach are our best travelers, if 
properl^^ shod and trained. If a horse overreaches badl^^, 
I put on each front foot from a 1| to a 2-pound shoe and a 
|-pound shoe behind, and set them out full in front at the 
toe. The shoes should all be made good length and wide 
at the heel. I never use au}^ front shoes on any horse, but 
hind shoes for both hind and front feet, and I make a great 
many shoes. 

When it comes to horses . that overreach I make the 
shoes narrow and thick in order to get the weight in them. 

This is my reason for using the heav^^ shoe. It is simply 
to make the horse cany the fore feet out of the way of the 
hind ones. — By D. J. Q, 



176 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



Shoeing Forging or Overreaching Horses. 

In slioeing a hoi'se to prevent forging- or overreaching", 
I use for the front feet a toe-weig'ht shoe made as shown in 
Fig-. 97 of the accompan3ang' illustration for Winter Avear, 
and a flat shoe for Summer. I get the weight chiefly in 
front of the point of the frog", and draw out the quarters 
and heels to about the size of an ordinary medium hind 




Fig 97— Temple's Method of Shoeing Forging or Overreaching Horses. A Shoe for 

a Front Foot. 

shoe. 1 next weld on a good-sized toe calk, then take two 
of the next smaller size calks, heat, cut off one-half the 
length, weld them on slanting about an inch from the 
point of the heel, and round off the heels ; this removes all 
the sharp corners. In fitting I don't cut the heels short, 
but allow them to project beyond the foot w^ell, for these 
shoes will tend to throw the feet far ahead, thus prevent- 
ing the horse from clicking and pulling them off. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 177 

In order to open the gait behind I make a side-weight 
shoe as for a front foot that interferes, but make it of 
lighter iron and extend it well back, making- the heels quite 




Fig. 9»— A Shoe for the Hind Foot. 

stiff as shown in Fig. 9§. I put but three nails on the 
inside, starting the crease well back of the toe so that the 




Fig. 9^— Showing the Old Way of Welding Toes on Second hand Shoes. 

third nail-hole will come opposite the fourth of the out- 
side. This makes the shoe less liable to break near the 
weld of the toe calk. — By Temple, 



CHAPTER Vlll. 

Quarter Cracks and Split Hoofs. 

A crack in the hoof is alwaA'-s a difficult trouble for the 
shoer to contend with unless he has had considerable expe- 
rience in this direction. In this chapter is presented a va- 
riety of methods of treatment both for quarter cracks and 
split hoofs. 

To Cure Quarter Cracks. 

Quarter cracks are longitudinal fissures in the hoof near 
the heel. They are g-enerall}^ caused b^^ improper shoeing- 
or negiect of the foot, or b3^ allowing the horse to stand on 
hard floors for a length of time, or by the overgrowth of the 
crust, or when by the paring away of the frog, sole and bars, 
the heel has been weakened, or by the burning of the feet 
in shoeing, or the springing of the shoe at the heels which 
then throws the weight of the horse on the wings or quar- 
ter of the coffin bone and causes the hoof to become dry and 
brittle. 

All these things produce a disposition in the hoof to con- 
tract and when this occurs at a time when it is dry and in- 
flexible it results in lesion or splitting. 

In speedy horses where the heels are allowed to grow too 
high, the crust loses its elastic toughness and becomes 
hard and thickened and there is a liability that the repeat- 
ed shock of alighting on the heel while in violent action will 
burst the quarters — the break occurring where the stress 
falls heaviest, back of the heel or at one or both sides. 

In paring a foot of this kind reduce the crust, especially 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESttOEIl. lY^ 

at the heel, as much as it can be without injuring the foot. 
The contracting tendencj^ in the hoof must be removed by 
rasping at the quai^ters until serum appears, after which 
the crack should be openeri on both sides with a drawing 
knife or farrier's knife, so uhat friction of the fractured 
parts maybe avoided. Then rasp or cut out the bottom 
of the quarter that is cracked so that no part of it may bear 



Fig. 94— Showing the Shoe to be Used when the Crack is on One Side Only. 

upon the shoes. After the wall has been lowered, should 
the frog project below the bottom of the foot, pare it fiat. 
By so doing the frog will be aided in growing wider and 
will assist the foot in expanding. 

When the crack occurs well back at the heels I some- 
times find it necessary to protect the weak part from con- 
cussion by applying the bar shoe. Commence thinning the 
shoe at the center of the quarters carrying it off both to- 



1§0 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

ward the heel and toward the toe, making" the shoe hg-ht 
and the bar wide so as to obtain a strong frog pressure. 

When cracks occur opposite the wings of the coffin-bone, 
level the foot and shorten the toe as much as it can be con- 
veniently. If the crack occurs on one side only use the 
shoe shown in Fig. 94, of the accompany; ing illustrations. 




Fig. 95— Showing the Shoe Used when the Toe and Heel Calks are Required, 

If the cracks happen on both sides, shoe with a three- 
quarter tip, and file or rasp the wall on both sides of the 
crack from the coronet to the ground surface as thin as 
safety will permit. If toe and heel calkins are required, ap- 
ply the shoe shown in Fig. 95, which is well rolled on the 
ground surface. If the foot be sore and tender I use meat 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



181 



fr^ing'S or salty lard, applying" it over the lioof and sole. 
This will soften the wall or crest and will also strengthen 
the hoof. The lard should be applied every day. The new 
g'rowth may also be stimulated by keeping the hoof moist 
with cold water bandages at nigiit or when the animal is 
not in use, until the soreness is gone. Remove the shoe 
every three weeks in order to prevent an excessive growth 
of hoof. 

By following these directions this form of disease ma^^ be 
easily and permanently^ cured. The time required to effect 




Fig. 96— Side View Showing a Crack Opposite the Wings of the Coffin Bone. 

a cure is generally six months. The improvement com- 
mences at the top of the hoof and goes downward. In 
dressing the crack treat it as 3^ou would a crack in your 
hands. Cut the corners off next to the crack. The shoe 
shown in Fig. 94 is well beveled at the toe and cut off for- 
ward of the seat of lameness at A. Fig. 96 is a side view of 
a foot with the crack opposite the wings of the cofRn-bone 



182 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



A. It will be observed that the toe is well rolled or bev- 
eled, and that the heel is pi^operl}^ cut for the bearing- at 
the quarters.— By W. C. Robinson. 

Practical Observations on Horseshoeing. 

Weak quarters and quarter cracks in horses' hoofs are a 
source of trouble and annoyance to a g-reat man}^ horse 
owners. Some horses can be . partiall^^ cured of these ail- 
ments, while others are incurable. The owner of a horse 
is, of course, alwaA^s desirous of using- him if possible, and 
when a horse cannot be cured, the next thing- to consider is 
how to ease the pain as much as i)ossible. The following- 
description of shoes, Fig-. 97, has been proven in practice 
to answer a very g-ood purpose : Select a shoe of the rig-ht 




Fig. 97— Shows " C. S.'s '' form of Shoe for Quarter Cracks. 

size, thin down the side where the difficulty exists, and 
weld on a side calk forward of the weak spot or crack. 
Bend down the thin portion of the shoe back of the side 
calk. The leverage between the side calk and the toe is 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 183 

short, hence there will be no spring". The heel of the shoe 
being* thin, and projecting back of the side ealk, becomes a 
protection to that part of the foot against stones, and pre- 
vents bruising. The heel, not touching the metal, does not 
receive the jar when the foot comes down, and the internal 
mechanism of this portion of the foot is protected. I don't 
advise sluy smith to use this kind of a shoe till convinced 
by thorough examination of its merits. Then go ahead. It 
is noticeable in horseshoeing that a good hammerman is 
often a poor fitter. A smith with bungling movements 
oftentimes turns out the finest work. — By 0. S. 

Treatment of Quarter Crack. 

M3^ treatment of quarter crack is as follows : I take a 
thin piece of steel and draw one edge sharp ; heat it to a 
white heat and make a cross-cut long enough to be sure 
that the crack will not extend around it ; have it in a line 
with the shape of the crack between the hoof and the hair. 
The hot steel will sear it so that the foot will not bleed. 
Keep the hoof growing wath some kind of hoof ointment. 
When it grows down, as it will in a few months, the quarter 
crack will be cured. I have cured a great many horses in 
this wdij. —Bij F. T. M. 

Treating Quarter Cracks. 

The first thing I do in quarter crack is to clean out the 
fissure as well as possible, but without cutting away any of 
the hoof. Next I cut about three-fourths, or an inch above 
the bottom of the hoof, a little notch about three-fourths of 
an inch from the crack on each side, and then with a brad • 
awl drill holes to meet across the crack, as deep as is safe, 
insert a good strong rivet, say | inch, or a little less and draw 
up tight. I then put in another, above, lighter of course, as 



184 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

the judg-ment directs. I shoe the horse as usual except that 
the shoe must be heavy enoug'h to prevent spring-iug-, and 
be well fitted to the foot, and the quarter or heel that is 
broken loose must be pared off so that it will bear very 
little if an}^ of the shoe. I then take a ^-inch chisel, drive 
it throug"h a piece of shoe leather so the sharp edge will 
project about } or -{\ of an inch, place the edge of the chisel 
just at the edge of the hair, where the new hoof begins to 
form, and square across the crack, and give it a tap with 
the hammer enough to start the blood nicely. After that 
I see that the shoeing is not neglected and that it is kept 
well riveted. 

I have treated a number of cases in this way, and have 
never 3^et failed to effect a cure as soon as the hoof could 
grow down. 

With regard to forcing the growth of the hoof with oint- 
ments, etc., I seldom recommend it in case of quarter 
cracks, as I think the hoof is weakened by forced or unnat- 
ural growth. — By F. W. S. 

Shoeing Horses with Quarter Cracks. 

It is a very easy matter to cure a foot with a quarter 
crack, and Avork the horse ever^^ day. My plan is as fol- 
lows: I put on a bar shoe first; I then pare and fit the 
foot, and then rasp the quarter away so that when the shoe 
is on it will not touch the quarter when the horse's weight 
is upon it. I then take a piece of steel and draw it to a 
sharp edge, like a lance, and with it I burn the top of the 
crack in the edge of the hair. I take care that it is burned 
to the quick. This done I apply some tar, or good hoof 
ointment, to take away the soreness and to prevent taking 
cold in the foot. When the shoe has been on Jong enough 
to allow the quarter to grow down so that it touches the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 185 

shoe, it is necessary to dress it again and reset the shoe. I 
take care not to let the quarter tonch tlie shoe until it has 
grown down. Accordingl}^, some preparation to stimulate 
growth is desirable. For this purpose I prepare a hoof 
ointment which has proved to be very valuable. With it I 
am able to overcome the worst crack I have ever seen, in 
the space of four months' time, and that without the horse 
limping at all after the first shoeing. I commenced shoeing 
when 1 was but twelve years old, and in my time have 
worked in a great man}^ different shops. I sometimes think I 
would rather have horses with quarter cracks, or lame, 
come to my shop, than those that are sound, for I know by 
experience that when I get one of the former, I am sure to 
give satisfaction to the owner. — By G. E. R. 

Curing a Split Foot. 

My way of curing a split hoof is to level the foot, making 
the heels as low as possible, and the sole moderately thin. 
I then cut a groove in the bottom of the crust of the toe, 
make a bar shoe, and let the bar rest on the frog so as to 
get a strong frog pressure. I set the toe well back on the 
shoe so as to get the pressure off the toe, and make the toe 
on the shoe long to secure a wide bearing. I use plenty of 
nails, but put them Avell back from the toe. The shoe is 
made rather large, and is wide at the heels. I take as 
much pressure off the toe as possible, keep the crack clean, 
and keep plenty of pine tar on the sole and wall of the foot. 
The shoes are kept on as long as possible. They should not 
be set, but should be tightened when necessary to keep 
them from getting loose. 

An old smith came into my shop the othel^ da^^, and af- 
ter watching me as I cooled off a shoe to fit it, said I never 
would make a horseshoer in my life, because no man who 



186 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

did not burn the foot could get a level bearing-. I asked 
him if he had ever dissected a horse's foot to see what it was 
composed of, and he said common sense would teach any 
man what it was — it was composed of hoof, of course. 
That is just about as much as some smiths know. — By W. 
A. Glazier. 

Shoeing a Split Foot 

In shoeing a split foot, my plan is to take a shoe of the 
size of the foot and weld a piece from calk to calk and weld 
clips on the shoe in three different places— one at the toe, 
and one at each side of the shoe as shown in the accompany- 




Fig. 98— "J. P. A/s " Method of Shoeing a Split Foot. 

ing illustration, Fig. 98. After driving two heel nails on 
each side I close carefully the clips on the side of the shoes. 
They should fit closely against the hoof at the bottom and 
should be sunk in, on a level with the outside surface of the 
hoof, and when they are closed neatly to the side of the 
hoof, 3^ou will find that the crack will close to a certain ex- 
tent, but the shoe should be smaller than the foot in order 
to fit it after the crack is closed. Drive your other nails, 
then draw in your toe clevis, and file with 3^our rasp a nick 
across the split. Make a deep notch at the upper end of 
the crack, and down to the bottom. It will split no farther, 
and if the shoe is kept on all the time will finally grow to- 
gether.— 5?/ J- P- ^» 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 187 

Shoeing a Split Foot. 

I would like to give my way of shoeing- for toe cracks. 
Last Summe^ one of my customers came to mj shop with a 
valuable horse walking on three legs — I mean that the 
horse walked on three legs, not the customer. I found 
that the right front foot was split from the coronet casing 
down to the bottom of the foot. The shell was in two 
pieces like an ox's foot, and blood was runniug out of it in 
streams. The man had been plowing, and in turning the 
horse had stepped with his left foot on the inside wing of 
the right shoe, thereby, tearing the foot apart. I went to 




A A 

Fig. 99-A Device of " C. N. S." for Shoeing a Split Foot. 

work and made two pieces of iron, as shown in the accom- 
panying illustration, Fig. 99, and fastened one on each side 
of the crack, and then put a three-sixteenth inch tire-bolt 
through it and tightened it together. I then took a fiv^e- 
eighth chisel and cut a gash crosswise on the top. The 
foot is now in good condition. The pieces ^4 A, in the illus- 
tration, are two little hooks to be burnt into the foot, B B 
are little scrcAvs, and C is a tire-bolt. — By C. N. S. 

Shoeing a Cracked Hoof — Shoeing Hoof-bound Horses 

— Making Calks. 

My way of shoeing a cracked hoof is to drive one or two 
brass nails through the crack, as shown in Fig. 100, and 
clinch on either side w^ell to hold the crack together. 

For lioof-bound horses I use a light shoe and drive it out 



1.88 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



well at the Jieels. I do not pare the bars or sole more than 
just enoug-h for a seat for the shoe to let the sole and frog* 
come as low to the g-round as possible when the horse steps 
on it. I make the shoe wide at the heels. I do not often 
put calks on the shoes. For a common shoe I make the 
calks as follows : 

. I take old sickle sections, cut them in the shape shown in 
Fig". 101, and the same size as calks, except that they are 




Fig. 100- Geo. Kindschi's Method of Shoeing a Cracked Hoof. 



a little longer 



; then drive them in the shoe at the side of 
the calk, as shown in Fig*. 102, and weld them on well. 
They are sure to wear sharp.— ^?/ GrEO. Kindschi. 

How to Shoe a Split Foot. 

The horse's hoof is so constructed that any exertion may 
be best carried on by a certain amount of elasticity- from 
the quarters to the point of the toe. Should, however, the 
natural condition of the foot be altered, by it being" deprived 
of sufficient moisture to preserve in it the required degree 
of toughness ami flexibility, the foot loses its power to 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 189 

yield to pressure and return to its shape, and when force 
sufficient to overcome its resistance is exerted, tlie lioof, no 
longer elastic, suddenly gives away by splitting. This 
occurs wherever the strain is the greatest ; at either of the 
sides from the quarters to the heel, or directly through the 




Fig. 101— Showing an Improved Calk as made by Mr. Kindschi. 

middle of the hoof in front. The conditions generally pres- 
ent, then, in a split hoof, are a hardness, dryness and brit- 
tleness, and they may arise from various causes. For 
examples : Hot fitting of shoes ; clipping ; high toes and 
heels on shoes which prevent the frog from coming in con- 
tact with the ground ; high heels on the foot or shoe ; fiat 
feet and long toes on draught horses ; the paring awa^^ of 
the frog, sole, bars or heel, whereby the foot becomes con- 
tracted, are all liable to result in the splitting of the hoof. 

Feet in this state are exposed to fracture either on their 
anterior or their lateral surfaces ; with these conditions toe- 
crack is produced b^^ the foot acquiring an uneven ground 
surface, and being thrown into an unnatural or forced posi- 




Fig. 103— Showing the Method of using the Piece shown in Fig. 101. 

tion. If the heel of the foot, through ignorance or neglect, 
is suffered to grow to an unusual height, the pressure and 
thrust of the coffin-bone against the comparatively thin 
crust, will almost alwa^^s result in a fracture in front. 
A peculiar accident to which horses are sometimes liable 



190 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



will, also, produce the same result. When a horse shod 
with heel calkins overreaches himself, that is, treads on his 
hoof with another foot and bruises the coronet or crust, the 
crease thus made often extends itself until the crust is 
entirely split. 

Toe cracks g-enerally attack the feet of heavj^ draught 
horses. This is doubtless owing- to the careless method of 
applying" their shoes, as well as to the fact that in drawing- 
heavy loads a greater stress is placed upon their toes than 




Fig. 103 -Showing How the Groove is Cut at the Toe in Shoeing for Split Hoof. 

upon those of other horses. In treating this disease the 
first care must be to thoroughly cleanse the foot, after 
which the crack must be pared out smoothly on either side 
of the crack as deep as the horny substance extends, thus 
widening the crevice so as to prevent all friction between 
the separated parts of the wall. Pressure must be taken 
entirely off the toe, and a groove, as shown in Fig. 103 of 
the accompanying illustrations, should be cut into the bot-[ 
tom of the crust at the toe. I 

Having done this, if the foot be contracted at the heel. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



191 



pare it to a level. The toe of the foot is then in turn to be 
shortened and the heel weakened by paring* out the commis- 
sures between the bars and' frog- as much as in the judg- 
ment of the farrier the foot can safel}^ bear. The shoe rep- 
resented in Fig. 104 should be used upon horses intended 
for draught purposes, the nails being placed from the 
front of the quarters toward the heel. 

The toe calkin being placed well back from the toe, light- 
ens the stress at the point where its weakness is the great- 




Fig. 104 -A Shoe Suitable for Draught Horses. 

est, and allows an easier play of the foot when in motion. 
When the split occurs in the foot of a horse used for general 
business work, lower the heel and shorten the toe as much 
as safety will permit and thin the heel of the shoe to obtain 
strong frog" pressure, removing: the pressure around the toe 
of the foot as before directed., — By W. O. Robinson. 

Curing a Split Hoof. 

I give herewith a simple way of curing a split hoof. 

In commencing the job, I make an aw^l two and one-half 



192 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



inches long- and as large as a No. 6 or 7 nail. I make it 
oval, with a sharp point and sharp edges on the point and 
do not temper it because the horse may jump and break it. 
I put it in a handle four or five inches long and boro-a hole 



v= 



S) 



Fig. 105— Nail for a Split Hoof. 

with it as high up on the hoof as possible. I begin a half 
or a quarter of an inch from the split and bore as deep as 
the horse will stand. I bore the hole to the split or crack 
larg-e enough to take the nail without much driving. I 
then make a nail of the shape shown in Fig. 105 of the illus- 
trations presented herewith. I then squirt oil in the hole, 
drive the nail through the other side of the split and clinch 




Fig. 106— SliQwing How the Nails are Placed. 

it. I sometimes put in three nails, one above the other, and 
sometimes, if the foot is sore or tender, I bore the holes on 
both sides, and after the nail or nails are in I let the helper 
hold up the other foot and hold a thin hot iron across the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 193 

crack at the edge of the hair until tlie-horse feels it and g-ets 
uneasy ; then the job is done. The shoe must be kept 
tight, and as the foot grows down other nails must be put 
in, if it is necessary. I have never failed to cure when the 
horse was brought to m^^ shop often enough for the foot to 
grow down. It makes no difference whether the crack is in 
the center or the front or in the quarters near the heel. 
The cure is certain in any case. But the nails should not 
be made too large. Fig. 106 shows how the nails are 
placed. — By C. H. 

Shoeing Split Hoofs. 

I have had a good deal of experience with cracked hoofs, 
and have tried a good many methods. M}^ favorite one is 
a clamp shoe in which the clamps are welded to either side 
of a ring shoe in order to come over the front of the foot, 
with ease, so that a bolt can be used. 

I have tried the plan of screwing on over the crack but it 
failed. The best and only safe plan that I have found is to 
drive a good light horse nail through the crack and draw 
it up occasionally. I have never failed by this method. 
Sometimes I have put as many as three nails in one hoof. 
Quarter cracks are much harder to cure than a front one, 
for they so often lap. I use a ring shoe for a quarter crack 
and cut awa^^ the quarter so it does not rest on the shoe. 
This keeps the crack from spreading while the horse 
is traveling. Sometimes for bad cracks I calk at the edge 
of the hair. -5?/ C. E. C. 

Curing a Split Hoof. 

My plan for curing a split hoof can be explained in a few 
Avords. It is to weld on each side of the shoe, near 
the heel, a piece of iron of sufficient length to come up over 



19tl: THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

the foot a little more than half wa^^ to the hair. Then I 
make a hole in the ends to put a small bolt through. I al- 




Fig. 107—" E.'s " Device for Caring a Split Hoof. 

ways use a good solid shoe. The straps should be light 
enough to bend readil3^ The length can be taken with a 
piece of paper. The accompanying illustration, Fig. 107, 





Fig. 108— C. W. Kohler's Shoe for Interfering Horses. 

will give a clear idea of my plan. Rivets can be used to 
draw the crack together, but in using rivets care must be 
taken to avoid going too deep.— By R. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



195 



Shoeing for Interfering, and for Split Feet. 

Fig". 108, of the accompanying- illustrations, represents a 
pair of shoes intended to prevent a horse from knocking- its 
knees or interfering in front. 

First level the feet, then make the shoes twice as heavy 
on the inside as on the outside hut of even thickness. Then 
fit the shoes to the feet and don't cut anything- off the in- 
side wall. 

Fig. 109 represents my method of shoeing a split foot. 




Fig. 109— Showing C. W. Kohler's Method of Shoeing a Split Foot. 

Clip the shoe on each side near the front, trim the sole very 
thin at the crack and cut out the wall as shown in the il- 
lustration so that the shoe won't hear on the crack. — By 
Chas. W. Kohler. 



Shoeing a Split Foot. 

My way of shoeing a split foot is to first remove all the 
dirt from it, then drive a hail through the hoof ahout one 
and a half inches on each side of the s])lit, then bend the 
head up, and put a piece of wire (I use hay hale wire) twice 



196 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

around the nail. If the wire proves to be a little too long- 
take it off, twist it until it is short enough, then pat it on 
and hammer the nail head back toward the point of the nail. 




Fig. 110— Method of Shoeing a Split Hoof. 

Having in this way drawn the split firmly together, as m 
the illustration, Fig. 110, 1 fire the hoof and itw ill then grow 
out. This method has never failed. After firing use some 
healing ointment.— ^2/ ''Subscriber." 

Shoeing a Split Hoof. 

My way of shoeing a split foot is to make a shoe with 
clips from the hind quarter rim to the front and close 
enough for a three-inch bolt to join them. I then make in 
each clip a hole large enough for a half-inch bolt, and then 
pare the hoof and with the edge of a rasp file a notch about 
two inches long across the hoof and just where the bolt 
crosses. This notch is cut into with a knife until it bleeds 
and the bolt is then put in and drawn as tightly as the 
horse can bear, see Fig. 111. Twice a week tighten, draw- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



197 



ing the bolt a little tighter than it was before. Keep this 
shoe on until the crack grows half the way down and then 
put on an ordinary shoe. 




Fig. Ill- Device for Shoeing a Split Hoof. 

This plan has cured every case I have ever treated.— 5i/ 
H. T. Gall. 



CHAPTER IX. 

SHOEING KNEE-SPRUNG, FLAT-FOOTED OR 
CLUB-FOOTED HORSES, ETC. 

Shoeing a Knee-sprung or Flat-footed Horse. 

In the case of a horse knee-sprung" from a recent strain 
on the back cords, I find it well to leave the heel of the foot 
high, and put on cxuite a long shoe, as that helps to relieve 
the cords. 

I will also give my method of shoeing flat-footed horses. 
A flat foot, as every farrier knows, does not need much par- 
ing on the bottom ; some, in fact, will bear hardly enough 
to even them up, the growth being straight out on the toe, 
and with some the bottom of the foot is very thin. If such 
a horse is shod with a shoe the full size of the foot, it brings 
the bearing too far from the center of the foot, and as the 
horse's weight bears mostlj^ near the center of the foot 
when it is in shape, there is need to get the bearing of the 
foot on the shoe back as near to the center as possible. In 
preparing a flat foot for the shoe, I take a sharp rasp and 
cut the toe back as far as I think will do, and then flt my 
shoe the full size of what foot I leave, giving the shoe as 
even a bearing as possible. In shoeing this way I have 
helped some quite bad cases of drop sole. An^- one can 
easily see that a heavy horse, with a thin bottom to his 
foot, will press the sole down quicker if the bearing on the 
shoe is too far away from the bones in the foot on which his 
weight comes. — By C. West. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 199 

Shoeing Flat-footed Horses. 

To shoe a flat-footed horse, pare the bottom of the foot as 
little as possible at the heel, just enough to level the foot. 
At the toe pare off all surplus horn or hoof ; avoid cutting 
the sole. In fitting- use an ordinary front shoe. Concave 
it well with an oval-faced hammer. Toe it with a heavy 
piece of steel according to the size of shoe. Turn a good 
solid heel and leave the steel about one-quarter or three- 
eighths of an inch higher than the toe. Be particular in fit- 
ting the shoe to the foot. It is very difficult to give a def- 
inite rule for this operation, as feet differ. My explanation 
that follows applies to very flat feet. Fit the shoe back of 
the foot and round off what projects with the rasp. Some 
feet are made better by taking off one-half inch, giving a 
good chance to get a fair nail hold, bringing the heel well 
around to the frog in order to cover the point of horn at the 
heel, with the shoe. This is done to keep the heel from set- 
tling down between the ends of the shoe. This trouble is 
alwaj^s met with in any width shoe, because it causes too 
much weight on the quarters of the foot. 

Make the shoe perfectly'- level from heel to toe. The foot 
should be level, so that when you lay on the shoe to nail 
there will be no rock to it. Get as deep a nail hold as pos- 
sible, so as not to break the foot. — By G. 



Flat-footed Horses — How Should They be Shod ? 

Sometimes the bottom of the foot has been cut away 
until it becomes rounded like the top of a tortoise shell. 
Such a horse has large, flat feet, thin shell, or meatj^ foot, 
wide heels, thin sole, and laig-e frog, of course. He should 
be shod with a wide web, thick shoe, concaved, to make the 
bearing come on the outer edge of the foot to jDrotect the 



200 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

sole. (The owner must see to it that dirt and g-ravel do not 
g'et lodg-ed under the concavity.) Now set up calks to keep 
the frog- and sole from stones and hruisuig-, and we have 
about the method that should be pursued in shoeing- flat 
feet. Now, is anythnig- the matter ? Yes ; the frog* gets 
no bearing". Well, what of that ? Why, the frog- is the 



Fig. 112— Method of Applying a Spring to a Shoe for the Protection of the Frog. 

cushion on which the bottom bone rests, and because the 
frog gets no ground bearing, tlie frog and sole are forced 
down by the weight of the horse and the rim of the foot is 
forced up. This is what causes the tortoise-shell shape 
alluded to above. The frog must have a bearing in order 
to prevent the foot bones from pushing through the bottom 
of the foot. This calls for the spring-bar, which is better 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESKOER. ^O'l 

than the ordinaiy bar shoe on account of its elasticit3\ 
Adjust the spring' so that it will rest on the frog- a little 
before the shoe touches the heels. This will give a bearing 
on the frog and keep the frog and sole up to their places. 
With this arrangement you divide the bearing- between the 
frog and the quarters as nearly in the natural wa^^ as pos- 
sible. If a horse could always rest a part of his weight on 
the frog, he never Avould suffer with contracted quarters, 
flat or bulged soles or tender frog* (with sufficient water 
bathing in dr^^ weather and while standing- in dry places). 
But, to continue : Take a piece of steel one-thirty-second 
of an inch thick, cut out the frog' spring long enough to put 
into the shoe a little forward of the heel, Avith sharp chisel 
punch. Punch a hole in the inner part of each side of the 
shoe three-eighths of an inch or more deep. These holes 
are for the ends of the spring and should be large enough 
to permit the spring to play a little, both endways and side- 
w^ays. Cut the spring the right length after the shoe is fit- 
ted to the foot, then open the shoe and put the spring- in. 
When the frog bears on the spring it holds the frog and 
sole and foot bones in their places, and the sole, if left alone, 
will soon thicken and harden and admit of an inner bear- 
ing. The spring should neither be tempered nor hardened. 
The accompanying- engraving. Fig'. 112, shows the spring 
and the manner of applying. — By S. Stone. 

Flat Feet 

The bearing of flat feet, as a general rule, keeps the sole 
always on a level with the wall of the foot. Now since the 
walls of flat feet spread instead of growing straight down, 
it follows that such feet are always low^ enough, and no 
paring can be done in that direction without endangering 
the animal. 

To shoe them I would first, with a good pair of pinchers, 



^02 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

cut awa}^ the overg-rowtli of the hoof if there is ain^ then 
simply level the bottom to receive the shoe. In paring* and 
trimming- such feet, cai-e should be taken to always leave 
plenty of horn for the shoe to rest on. It is by trimming 
the edges of the foot too far in, in the foolish attempt to 
make it smaller, that all the mischief is done. You thereby 
deprive the foot of all wall support, and throw the whole 




Fig. 113.— SLioe Made by " J. E. M.'' for Straighteuiug a Crooked Foot. 

weight of the horse on the soles of his feet, which are now 
higher than the wall, and you must pare them down to . 
bring them even with the outer crust, making them there- 
by very thin and sensitive. If the horse works with such 
feet it will generate fever and diseases, among which is 
drop-sole. In this case, I Avould recommend to put the 
horse in a pasture for about three weeks, and see that his 



THE PRACTiaAL HORSESHOEK. 203 

feet are kept moist and cool. To slioe him, if he is not too 
far g-one, I would level up the seat of the shoe even with 
the sole with laj^ers of harness leather, and then nail the 
shoe, which I would have tolerably Avide, on top of it. — By 
A. D. 

Shoeing and Straightening a Crooked Foot. 

M\^ way of shoeing- and straig-htening- a crooked foot is 
shown iu the accompanying- illustration, Fig\ 113, in which I 
take a mule's shoe for an example, because mules are more 
subject to crooked feet than are horses. With this shoe I 
straightened, in six months, the hoof of a mule that walked 
on the side of his foot. If the ankle of the foot runs in, put 
the extension of the toe A on the inside of the shoe. If the 
ankle runs out put A on the outside. Fit well and tack on. 
It may be somewhat troublesome at first, but the animal 
will soon g-et used to it, and there is no danger of interfer- 
ing.— 5?/ J. E. M. 

Shoeing Flat-footed Horses. 

Some men think that a flat-footed horse should alvvaj^s be 
shod with a bar shoe. When the foot is healthy I put on a 
plain shoe, well beveled on the side next to the sole as far 
back as the last nail-hole. Particular pains must be taken 
not to let the shoe bear on the sole, for, if so, it will be apt 
to lame the horse. 

I have had man}^ cases of lameness caused in this man- 
ner, and cured them by paring- the sole a little where the 
shoe rested. 

If the shell is chipped off on the edges so that it is not 
level with the sole, I place a strip of leather under the shoe 
all the way around the hoof. This prevents the shoe from 



20.1: THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

bending- itself in the shell, and allows the hoof to grow 
down, so that, at the next shoeing, there will be a firmer 
vein of horn on which to nail the shoe. — Bij Highland. 

Shoeing a Crooked Foot. 

I will describe my way of shoeing crooked feet. I do not 
cut away the toe at all. If the horse travels with his feet 
out, I begin at the toe and gradually thicken to the heel 
on the inside of the foot, or I i3ut on a side heel calk, say 
three to four inches in length, with a gradual slope. By 
so doing I throw the inside of the foot much higher than 
the outside, I let the toe calk have the same slope, I raise 
the inside according to the crookedness of the foot and as 
I have no scale for their height, use my own judgment. If 
the hoi'se travels with his feet in, I reverse the form of the 
shoe. I have never failed with this method. I never cut a 
foot to straighten it, for it is not the foot which needs treat- 
ment, it is the gait of the animal. 

My way of shoeing is to shoe as long and as wide at the 
heel as the gait of the animal will permit. I never pare 
the sole any more than nature sheds. The frog I treat in 
the same way. — By J. B. H. 

A Knee-Sprung Horse — Thrush. 

My plan for winter shoeing of knee-sprung horses is to 
pare the foot at the toe, as in ordinary shoeing. Keep the 
heel down rather low, and let the shoe stick out over the 
heel a little more than usual. 

For spring or summer, I shoe perfectly flat, and find that 
then the horse always goes well. 

I had a case of thrush last sujnmer, and cured it by the 
following treatment : I poured ke^i^osene oil into the frog of 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



205 



the foot twice a da^^ and applied fine salt for two da3's, tak- 
ing* care to keep the feet out of tlie wet when the horse was 
standing". The cure was speedy and thorough. — By Un- 
known. 

Club Feet. 

Crooked foot or club foot is a disease often neglected \>y 
both the horse owner and the shoer. Colts are sometimes 
foaled with crooked feet, allowed to grow to three or four 




Fig. 114— Shoeing Club Feet. How the Hoof is Measured. 

years of age without an^^ attention, and are consequently 
almost ruined for the market and even for general work. 
Crooked feet should be attended to as soon as the colt is of 
sufficient strength to admit of handling. We shoukl look 
after our colts' feet from the time the3^ are b}^ the side of 
the mother, until XhQj arrive at the age when it becomes 
necessary to have shoes put on their hoofs. 

Horseshoers, as a general rule, neglect paring- the feet 
level and stx^aight as they should be in every case, for when 



206 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



the feet are crooked the^^ are out of b?.lance, and this also 
brings a constant strain on the joints. Keep 3^our horse's 
feet straig'ht, of an even length on the sides and at the 
quarters, and then appl^^ a shoe with an even bearing on 
the wall. 

Always keep a pair of compasses in your shoeing box, 
and measure the hoof as shown in the accompanying illus- 
tration, Fig. 114, from A to B on either side of the toe, and 




Fig. 115— Showing the Tool Used by "J. C." in Shoeing. 



from C to Z) at the quarters, then make a tool like the one 
shown in Fig. 115, to indicate the degrees at which a foot 
sliould stand, and 3^ou will have no trouble in balancing the 
foot properly. The hoof should be set at about 54 to 56 
degrees. This tool is made of three pieces of iron riveted 
together as follows : Front, 4 inches; bottom, 5 inches; cross- 
piece, 6 inches long. The bottom piece is curved as shown 
iu Fig. 115. The diagram. Fig. IIG, is given to show the 
correct angle so that a blacksmith who wishes can make a 
tool accuratel3^ from this angle. — By J. 0. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



207 



Shoeing with Tips— Shoeing Stumbling and Knee-Sprung 
Horses — Shoeing for Corns. 

As regards shoeing- with tips, I think it depends upon the 
nature of the foot to be shod. If the heel is low, there is 
generally a good healthy frog, and' in most cases a light 
sole, and consequently the tips could not be let into the 
foot. In iny pi\actic.e I find that tips are a good thing for 




Fig. 116— Diagram used by "J. C" to Show the Correct Augle. 

some feet. For instance, if a foot is contracted at the heels 
and has a high wall and the foot is hard, and there is a 
thick hard sole and a small hard frog, pinched on either 
side by the bars, then I sa}^ put on tips. I make the tips 
of steel, and taper them down from the toe to the heel, hav- 
nig the heel half as thick as the toe, but making the heel in- 



208 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

sertecl somewhat at about the center of the quarter. This 
g"ives the foot a level bearing-. I know that tips put on 
horses with feet as I have described, had the desired effect, 
that is, they Avidened the heels. And the horses did not 
become lame althougii the}^ were driven over paved streets 
all the Summer months. 

M^^ method of shoeing a stumbling* horse is as follows : 
Shoe with plates, rasp off the toe of the foot, then put the 
hot shoe in the vise at the first toe nails, and turn it up to 
fit the toe of the foot. 

I think all competent horse shoers will maintain that a 
knee-sprung' horse should be raised on his or her heels. If 
there is plenty of hoof, I pare off the toe and then put on a 
common shoe. If there is not plenty of hoof, and the heels 
are low, the desired heig-ht should be made up in the heel of 
the shoe. If a toe calk is needed it should be hammered 
downloAV. 

In shoeing" a horse with corns the best way is to cut off 
the heel of the shoe on the inside, as the heel is the most 
subject to corns. Do not pare down the heel or bar, but 
leave them in contact with the g-round and j^our horse will 
then have a good sound heel. — By J. J. McN. 



Stumbling Horses. 

To shoe horses that stumble, pare the foot as for ordi- 
nar}^ shoeing- and nail the shoe on pointing- forward, as you 
think the foot should be carried in traveling-. Horses that 
stumble g-enerall^' have a round or wide foot and toe in. 
This causes them to hit the foot that stumbles on the hoof, 
just back of the fourth nail from the toe, with the side of 
the other foot. The blow is so lig-ht that it leaves scarcely 
any mark, but it will soon produce soreness at the point 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 209 

struck and cause the horse to stumble very often. Point 
the shoe straight forward, therefore, and remove the side 
of the hoof all it will hediv.— By D. N. 



Curing a Turned Foot. 

I will give you ni}^ remedj^ for treating- a hind foot that 
is turned. I have never treated front feet. I take a new^ 
shoe, fit it in the ordinary way, and then take a piece of old 
w^agon spring about 1^ inches wide, and weld to the bottom 
of the toe of the shoe, taking care to cut it so long that it 
will come to the top of the hoof and bend almost like a 
sleigh runner, leaving the calkin about 2 inches long. I 
then turn the animal out, as it would under no circum- 
stances do to use him. Bathing frequently with some of 
the many liniments will be beneficial. The shoe should be 
taken off every three or four weeks, or as often as neces- 
sar3^, and the runner made sharper in the bend and the 
calkins cut down gradually until the foot comes to the 
proper shape. — By S. E. G. 

To Prevent Striking. 

To prevent a horse from striking his front feet with the 
hind ones, I put on the front feet, shoes that are very 
heavy, but a little shorter than the common style. On the 
hind feet I use very light shoes, and, if they are calked, set 
the calk pretty far back in the shoe. I then set the shoes 
so that the hoof will project a little in front of them. After 
shoeing a horse in this way a few times, he may afterward 
be shod like any other horse, and Avill tx^avel right.— By C, 
L. D. 



210 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



Curing a Clicking Horse. 

My method of curing- a clicker, that is, a horse that 
strikes his hind feet ag-ainst the front ones is as follows : 
. I take a pair of front shoes a size too large (I use Juniata 
shoes when 1 can get them) and make spring heels on them. 
I fit them as long as usual and put on heavy toe calks but 
forge the toes down until they are no higher than the heels, 




Fig. 117— The Shoe Used for Curing a Clicking Horse. 



as shown in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 117. I fit 
the shoe level. For the hind feet I use the smallest shoe I 
can make to answer and fit as in front except that I leave 
the toe as high again as in front. This never fails to stop 
a horse from clicking. It is a habit, in 1113^ opinion, and the 
horse acquires it because he chooses to do so, not because 
he cannot help it. — By I. N. Bailey. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



What is a Founder? 



211 



The trouble popularly known as " founder " is described 
in works on veterinary surg-ery as laminitis, or an inflam- 
mation of the foot. This disease appears in two forms. In 
the simple form the sensitive lamina of the foot and the 
equally sensitive sole are affected, while in the more severe 
form the bones of the foot are also included. Among* the 
many causes of this disease, perhaps the most common is 
the severe concussion from fast driving on hard roads, over- 




Fig. 118— Form of Shoe for Foundered Horses. 



exertion and over- feeding, and drinking cold w^ater Avhen 
the horse is heated. The treatment recommended by eminent 
authorities, consists in the administration of mild purga- 
tives : tincture of aconite in small and repeated doses, as a 
febrifuge, with poultices to the foot in the earlj^ stages of 
the disease and cold applications later. Use a form of shoe 
such as is shown in Fig. 118. ''As early as possible, get 
lightly nailed on the feet affected, extremely stout, wide- 
webbed and long-bar shoes, made from iron about twice 
the ordinar^^ thickness that the particular horse's shoes are 
made from ; make them gradually thin from behind the 
quarters, so that the heel part of the shoes is wide and thin, 
and fitted rocker fashion, which enables the horse to throw 
his weight where he tries to, much better than he can in 
ordinary shoes or without any ; that is, off the pedal bone 



^i^ THEi PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

on to the soft elastic tissues and tendon behind it, which 
are much less vascular and sensitive." — American Agri- 
culturist. 

Shoeing Chest- Foundered Horses. 

Let such a chest foundered horse g-o barefoot, in order to 
wear off his toes. If the heels fail to Avear off so as to get 
the frog- bearings sufficient to spread the heel, cut them 
down until the frog will get its portion of the bearing. 
When the toe wears so as to become tender on the bottom 
put on a thin shoe for a time and let the growth continue. 
Then take off the light shoes and let the horse go barefoot 
again. 

The heels and frogs on such horses will never suffer with- 
out a shoe. Just a tip, or half shoe, Avill be sufficient in 
most cases. From this it will be noticed that my idea of 
shoeing chest-foundered horses does not consist in not shoe- 
ing them at all, but in not shoeing as much as is the usual 
custom. Let the horse's feet have plenty of water, and let 
the foot gradually come into natural shape and proportion, 
with reference to amount ol heel and toe, so that the joints 
can come to a natural position. The horse's feet will then 
gradually come back under him and the so-called chest- 
founder will graduall}^ disappear. 

.The points to be borne in mind are the water, the natural 
shape of foot, the frog bearing, position of joints and posi- 
tion of leg. The pastern and coffin joints are usuall^^ the 
sufferers, aside from the contraction of shell upon the wings 
of paddle bones, where corns usually commence. The in- 
flammation here contracts the hoof still more and makes 
the back cord sore. These causes lead to a long high toe 
in proportion to the heel. This is generally termed chest- 
founder. The horse sets his feet forward, and the breast 
appears to fall in because the shoulders are forward. — By S. S. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. ^13 

Drop Sole or Pumice Foot. 

Drop sole arises from various causes. It may come from 
founder- or laminitis, or it may come with some horses from 
heavy work and improper shoeing-. The case I have in 
view now arose from the last-named cause. The horse on 
a heavy pull would do his w^ork with the toe of the shoe. 
He had been examined and shod by a g-reat man}^ smiths, 
some of whom would call the trouble by one name, some by 
another. The owner labored under the impression that the 
horse was hoof-bound. I made an examination and found 
the hoof tender and broken loose at and around the point 
of the frog-, the toe being- long and showing a tendencj^ to 
turn up. The horse pulled with his toe or the toe of the 
shoe, and the toe of the hoof being long, the strain caused 
the back part of the laminae to elongate, and the weight 
pressed against the sole causing it to flatten and draw the 
horny sole from the sensitive or fleshy sole. The crust or 
outside wall had lost its proper form and become flatter, 
appearing as if it were forced upward from the ground. 

So much as regards the cause of the disease and the ap- 
pearance of the hoof. Now as to the shoeing. It is first 
necessar}^ to shorten the toe as much as possible without 
injury, as the sole in this condition is weak. Care must be 
taken not to cut or pare in any wa}^ more than is necessary 
for the proper levels of the shoe. When the foot is thus 
prepared a shoe, such as is shown in Fig. 113, page 202, 
is to be applied. By having the toe A set well back 
on the shoe, the center of gravity will fall more directly 
on the foot and leg bones, and the strain will be taken off 
the injured parts. Reset the shoes every four weeks, and 
in a few shoeings the sole will return to its natural con- 
caved form. An,y application to promote the growth of the 
hoof is good. Before the application of this shoe the horse, 



214 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

after being driven three miles on a hard road and put in 
the stable over nig-ht, could hardh^ get out of the stable 
again. After this shoe had been applied the horse was 
driven thirty miles on a hard road, put in stable over night, 
and the next morning came out as free from soreness as 
when he was put in. 

Drop sole has other causes besides those I have men- 
tioned . Springing the shoe off at the heels and breaking 
down the quarters will also cause drop sole on heavy 
draught horses that have low, broad heels. — By J. E. M. 

Shoeing to Correct Forging. 

The difference in weight and gait of horses requu^es some 
slight difference in the method of shoeing with regard to 
the weight and length of shoe to be used. Some horses can 
carry a two-pound shoe quite conveniently, while an equal 
Aveight would tell very materially upon other horses after 
a few miles of travel. It is noticed that speeding horses often- 
times have the fault of forging more or less. The continual 
disagreeable sound that is heard when speeding is an^^thing 
but satisfactory to drivers' ears, and the resistance to the 
forward movement of the foot by the blow must, of course, 
suddenl}^ check the forward movement of the limb. The 
heels of a horse that are battered and scarified after a 
severe drive cannot but engage the attention of the owner, 
if present. Some assert that it is impossible to stop a horse 
from forging when badly addicted to the habit. This opin- 
ion, however, is not altogether accepted by horsemen, and 
every possible means that can be employed in the limit 
ed sphere of shoeing is brought to bear on the case, so that, 
if possible, the fault may be remedied. 

The close attention of the driver to the planting of the 
foot shows that if the front foot could be caused to slightly 
lengthen the stride the forging would cease. Therefore 
take the practical observation of the driver and make use 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 215 

of it. It is well understood in mechanics that accelerated mo- 
mentum will carry a weig-ht quite a distance. For instance, 
a person not weighted, who can jump eight feet, can jump 
nearly a foot farther Avith dumb-bells. This principle is ap- 
plicable to a certain extent to the front limbs of the forging 
horse. Let the toe of the shoe be heavy. Let the smith 
use his own good judgment as to the weight. One shoe- 
ing may not suflice. Note the effect of the first expeiiment 
and be governed b^^ it in subsequent operations. 

Some smiths advocate a long shoe. By this means the 
weight would be at the heels. If the extra weight is at the 
toe on the shoe a neater job is made. Have the heels short 
and beveled under, with a broad chamfer along the quarter. 
Make the chamfer while the shoe is hot. A slight filing 
makes it briglit when cold. For fine work one inch back of 
crust termination is amply sufficient for hoof bearings. 
The shoe should be concaved on the bottom or heavily 
chamfered. No nail heads should project out of the crease. 
A front clip has its advantages and disadvantages. It de- 
pends very much upon the judgment of the shoer whether 
it should be used or not. . 

The hind shoes require to be as high as the circumstances 
admit. The toe calk should be hot- filed of all projecting- 
and superfluous metal. If the evil is stopped by having- a 
full toe, so much tlie better ; if not, regulate the toe by 
hot-filing, and set the shoe back as little as the circum- 
stances permit. Bear in mind as you set back the shoe 
that you advance to a point of serious danger to the foot. 
Round all the sharp corners of the heels of the front shoe. 
When the clicking of the shoes is removed one annoyance 
is overcome; but more frequently a more serious one re- 
mains. To remove it has been the object of horseshoers 
for man^^ j^ears. The method here described is not g-uaran- 
teed to be effective in all cases, but there are points in it 
which are good. — By C. S. 



CHAPTER X. 
MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS 

Thick-Heeled Shoes. 

I Avish to contribute my quota, of experience about a mat- 
ter that is of considerable importance to our craft. The 
custom of applying- hind shoes made very thick, or feather- 
edg-ed, on the inside, was one that became prevalent from 
the beginning' of the present century. Its supposed influ- 
ence as a i^emed}^ against cutting' was founded on the 
h^^pothesis that b^^ raising the inside of the foot the past- 
ern joint was tilted outward, which was supposed to enable 
the elevated foot to pass the limb planted on the ground 
Avithout touching it. The same injurious practice has been 
more or less extended to the fore feet, on the faith of some 
such speculative notions. It has also been supposed that 
thick-heeled shoes give support to the joint and tendons ; 
while, again, horses are shod with the outside heel of the 
hind shoe turned up and the inside made thick, with the 
idea of giving the foot a level bearing. These belong to 
some of the Old World notions, which have led to the twist- 
ing of the horse's legs, the jar and injury of their feet and 
joints, resulting in splints, spavins, and other affections of 
the hock joint, all of which diseases have become prevalent 
through ignorant malpractice. 

Tlie objections here urged do not appl.y to the use of calk- 
ins, which are often useful, especially for draught horses. 
The safety of a sound horse in action, and when his move- 



THfi PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 217 

ments are free, greatly depends on the state of his hmd feet. 
An animal crippled on his fore feet falls and breaks his 
knees; but if a sound horse, free on his limbs — say an un- 
shod colt, g'alloping" in the field — falls, it is always through 
his hind feet g-iving- way, by their slipping- under him, in 
which case he comes down on his quarters or on his side, 
but not on his knees. 

A little artificial aid answers the purpose of giving- secur- 
ity to the horse in almost all emerg-encies. The thick-heeled 
shoes both jar the horse and act like skates on his feet, and 
when one limb of the shoe is made thick and the other 
turned up, on the supposition that the horse stands level, 
the opposite effect follows; for althoug'h the foot may ap- 
pear level whilst the animal stands on flag--stones or boards, 
yet the case is reversed as soon as he is put to work, 
whether on common roads, paved streets, or ground more 
or less yielding"; the heel that is turned up will find or make 
depressions, whilst the solid, thick, inside half of the shoe 
remains above ground and jars the horse's limbs, becoming* 
a source of inconvenience without one redeeming^ advantag^e. 
—Bij F. I. G. 

To Shoe a Horse Injured by Calking. 

It is very surprising- to me that the mechanics in cities 
are, as a rule, inferior to those in the countr3^ 1 do not 
say this because I have anything' ag-ainst the city mechan- 
ics, for I think they are more brotherly than the countr^^ 
workmen, w^ho are always running- one another down. 

But let that be as it may, what I wish to speak of now is 
the art of horseshoeing in particular. It seems strange 
that shoers have so many different ideas about shoeing the 
same kinds of feet. I have seen some especiall^^ bad work 
in some of the Western cities. For example: I saw a horse 



21 8 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

that had been calked broug-ht in one of these Western shops 
to be shod and have his foot treated. I will now explain the 
nature of the calk, so that m}^ brother smiths will under- 
stand the condition of the foot. The calk or cut was in the 
center of the fore-foot, about an inch below the hair, and 
extending downward, beiiio- short but deep. This smith, if 
so he can be called, went to work as follows: He cut the 
clinches and removed the shoe in the ordinary Avay; then 
takinof his paring'-knife, he cut from the hair clear to the 
point of the toe, or the entire length of the foot. Under- 
stand, he cut each side of the calk, thereby making a large 
cavity the shape of the letter V, leaving the flesh, or mem_ 
brane, or quick, exposed to the dirt, grit and filth of the 
streets, and the blood oozing out. He then nailed on the 
shoe, and pronounced the operation complete. That horse 
was then a hundred per cent worse than w^hen he entered 
the shop. 

You ask, Well, how did the horse get along in this condi- 
tion ? The result was simply this: dirt and gravel got in 
the exposed parts, and the animal became lame, not only 
on account of the dirt and gravel, but because when the 
foot was put on the ground and the weight of the animal 
bore dowm on it the cut expanded, causing great pain. 

Now, an}^ smith ought to know that the heel is the ex- 
panding or contracting portion of the foot, and, therefore, 
when the front of the hoof is ^plit to the entire length, it 
will expand, causing pain and lameness. This horse be- 
came worse at once, and the owner took him to another 
shop. I happened to be present at the time, and the smith 
asked me what I thought about the treatment the foot had 
received. I told him the smith that did that job was a fool, 
in my opinion, and did not understand his business; and, 
furthermore, that he ought to be arrested for cruelty to 
animals. I then gave the smith a little advice as to the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 219 

way I would treat that foot; I would first cleanse the sore- 
portions thoroug-hl^^ then make the foot perfectl^^ water 
and air-tig'ht with resin. I think resin far better than tar 
for this purpose, as nothing' will adhere to it. After sealing 
the foot securel^^, I would apply a steel shoe that would not 
take and give, the foot then being perfectly solid and in no 
clanger of expanding. Sometimes a bar-shoe is far better 
than an ordinary one. — By W. G. T. 



Self-Sharpening Calks. 

I will give you a description of ourst3de of shoeing-. Our 
country is very rough and stonj^ rendeiing an iron calk 
useless for fall and winter. Our summer shoeing is of 
but little importance, being most all resetting old shoes 
nearly worn out, which are expected to stay on from three 




Fig. 120— Shows How Calk is Split. 

to five months, at the end of which time the3^ have the 
shoes tightened up and perhaps come back to have a new 
nail put in some vacant nail hole. To simmer the thing 
down fine, the smith Avho puts shoes on to stay the longest 
is the best shoer. 

Our winter shoeing- is of a different nature in quality of 
shoe- Then we use our self-sharpening shoe^ which we put 



220 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

on as soon as the ground freezes, and they are kept on till 
spring. 

To make a self-sharpening- shoe, pick a shoe to fit the 
foot you are going- to shoe, and turn down the heel calks as 
for mud calks. Then with a sharp flat chisel, made from a 
large flat file, split the calk as shown in Fig. 120. Now 
take the best cast steel that wnll harden the hardest without 
breaking, and make slips as shown in No. 2 of Fig. 120. 
They should be a trifle wider than the Avidth of the calk, 
and an eighth of an inch deeper than the depth of the slit. 
Weld with borax, or some good compound, so as to keep 



Fig. 131— Section of Shoe Showing Toe Calk. 

good life in the steel. Make your toe calks of iron, then 
weld to shoe good and solid. Then make slips, as shown in 
Fig. 121, a trifle longer than the toe. Now weld, as shown, 
being careful to keep the steel out to the edge where the 
shoe is sharp. This can easily be done by filing the iron 
off as the toe is being drawn out, when the shoe is fitted to 
the foot. It is now ready for tempering, and this is my 
way of tempering. Heat toe and heel to a good cherry red 
and then cool the shoe off by dipping in Avater and holding- 
it there till cool. Hold the edge of the calk in the fire and 
draw the temper to a copper color. Heavy mower sections, 
such as the Buckeye, make good slips for ice or snow roads, 
but are too light to stand frozeu ground or stone. The 
steel of a circular saw is the best I have ever used.— % J. 
A. B, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



221 



Sharpening Calks — Setting Heels and Toes. 

My belief is that many blacksmiths set the toe calk under 
instead of setting- it out as it should be. After the toe is 
welded turn the heels in the air and sharpen from the in- 
side of the toe with the pane of the hammer. This gives 
the outward slant in sharpening so the shoe is not thrown 
out of shape. 

A horse in pulling-, sets the heel down first, which makes 




B B 

Fig. 122— Sharpening Calks. 

V 

the shoe slant, and if it slants inward the horse will slip 
in pulling up-hill, while if it slants outward he gets a firm 
hold. 

Never set the heels square across. ' They should always 
be set with the curve of the shoe and then they prevent the 
horse from slipping sidewise. Slope them toward each 
other as shown in the illustration, Fig. 123, in which B B 
represents the heels and A the toe. — By H. R, 



222 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

To Shoe a Horse that Crosses one Leg Over the Otiier. 

To prevent a horse calking" himself that has the fault ixf 
crossing- one hind leg- with the other, I emplo^^ the plan 
given below. I would say that three customers of mine 
each own a horse that had the same fault. I tried different 
ways to stop it, hut found no way so g"ood as to shoe them 
with a shoe on the foot that they crossed the other one with, 




Fig. 123~Shoe to Prevent Calkiug. 

similar to Fig-. 123. C is the inside of shoe. Instead of 
having a calk at A, as on the other side, I have a calk at 
B, at the last heel nail hole. The shoe at A should be 
filed smooth; the calk at B should be the same kind of 
calk as is commonly put on heels ; have tried the above 
way of shoeing- the horses referred to for three j^ears, and 
they have not calked themselves once. — By Rab of the 
Wynde. 

Predmore's Rotary Clincher. 

This clincher is my own invention, and comes nearer per- 
fection than any I have seen. 

The clincher complete is shown in Fig*. 124. It consists 
of the lower handle^ Fig-. 125, with end mortised as shown. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



223 



In this the rotary, Fig\ 126, is attached and connected with 
the upper handle, which is also the lower jaw, Fig. 128, by 
the connecting' bar, Fig\ 127. 

In Figs. 126 and 128, the holes D and C are threaded for 




Fig. 134— Predmore's Rotary Clincher Complete. 

screws, as in these holes the bolts are required to be set very 
firmly. The bolts may be seen at D and C ii\ Fig. 124. 




Fig. 125— Showing Lower Handle, and how the End is Mortised. 

To operate, simply hold the rotary firmly to the foot, 
close the handles and the rotar}^ will clinch the same as a 
hammer.— 5?/ G. W. Predmore. 



Shall Nails be Clinched in Horseshoeing? 

Does it do any good to clinch the nails in a horse's foot ? 

I have shod horses most of the time for thirty-five years, 
and have come to the conclusion that a clinch is of no use, 
though I still practice it, for the majority of men would feel 



224 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



sure the shoes would drop off unless the nails Avere clinched. 
Some of my customers, however, won't have them clinched 
at all. 
Experience has shown me that more nails break off be- 




Fig. 126— The Rotary for Clincher. 



Fig. 137 —The Connecting Bar 
for Clincher. 



tween the shoe and the hoof than get loose enough to draw 
out. 

As proof of this you will g-en orally see the nails sticking- 
up above the hoof wiien the shoe gets settled into its place, 
showing clearl}^ that the shoe is not held by the clinch. 




Fig. 138— The Lower Jaw for Clincher. 



Nails seldom get loose enough to pull down against the 
clinch. 

I conclude, therefore, that the time emploj^ed in clinching 
nails is wasted, as a shoe will stay on as long without as 
wdth clinching. — By S. B. Pepper. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



225 



Driving Horseshoe Nails. 

Horseshoes can be kept on a long- time by the following* 
plan. I think shoes well fitted to the foot will stay as long- 
as they ought to remain without re-setting. But for large 
horses I find it works well to drive the nails as shown in the 
accompanying illustration, Fig. 129. — By L. W. P. 

A Novel Idea in Horseshoeing. 

I have been looking into the matter of horseshoes lately, 
trying' for something practicable to prevent contraction, 




Fig, 129— Driving Horseshoe Nails, 

but haven't found anything better than the generall}^ ac- 
cepted plans, unless it is Hague's Expansion Shoe. 

Did you ever observe that anything that is bright, shows 
up ver}^ conspicuously on the feet. There was. good sense 
in the old-fashioned shoe buckle. I think I have seen it 
stated that while Washington w^as president he rode through 
the streets of Philadelphia behind six splendid white horses 



226 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

which were shod with gold. I don't know if the Lord Mayor 
of London puts on that much style, but it is a matter which 
history has considered of sufficient imj^ortance to mention 
that Nero had his mules shod with silver, while those of his 
wife were shod with gold. A horse's hoof can be polished 
until it is as smooth and as gioss3^ as a tortoise-shell comb, 
and it is certainlj^ perfect taste to have them so. But that 
polished hoof will be set off to great advantage, and atten- 
tion will be called to it if there is but the faintest bright 
glimmer of gold on a thin line around its base. There is no 




Fig. 130— Showing Some Tasteful Designs for Artistic Horseshoeing. 

necessity of this brightness being of gold, brass will answer 
as well. A steel shoe can be made with a channel for the 
insertion of brass, and arranged to show the bright brass 
bottom when the horse is in motion and the band of yellow 
metal at the base of the hoof when the horse is standing 
still. 

The engraving, Fig. 130, conveys some idea of the fanci- 
ful effects which may be produced. Fashion makes business. 
Fashion is the most beneficent of all the goddesses, and if 
she refuses her favors to the blacksmith then he should take 
them. Business will be good when the product of the black- 
smith is subject to the caprice of fashion. 

Even putting a brass plate across the hoof, the full size 
and 1-16 inch thick under the shoe, turning up a flang-e or 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. fi?27 

not, would be a benefit to horses as much as India rubber 
and be yielding- enough to take off the jar of the hard pave- 
ment, but not enough to let the shoe move up and down 
sufficiently to loosen it.— By B. F. Spalding. 

Bar Shoes and their Uses. 

It is impossible for a man to know all the good ideas of 
the trade. If we err in our conclusions it is no fault of the 
heart, but rather something that happens to the best of us 
sometimes. When a bar shoe is to be made the blacksmith 
puts his thinking cap on. He is on the threshold of vet- 




Fig. 131— A Form of Bar Shoe. 

erinary surgery. Of all the methods which present them- 
selves, that which is most acceptable for the case in hand is 
the one sought. Practical experience opens the way for the 
judgment to choose. Then comes the practical test. When 
the crossbar of a shoe rests on the soft part or extremit^^ of 
the frog it is apt to cause injury to it, but when it is placed 
farther towards the point it rests on the harder pa-rt of the 
frog,' producing better results. It is impossible to point 
out a correct method of fitting a bar shoe, as each new case 
differs so much from all others. Some smiths cannot make 
a bar shoe, because they are poor forgers of iron. Such 



228 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOES. 



men should not be allowed to tamper with a horse*s foot 
afflicted with aihnent, under an^^ circumstances. 

In seeking" information in books or papers, we often 
come across the expression, ** use a bar shoe." The smith 





Jigs. 132 and 133— Two other Forms of Bar Shoes. 



is left in the dark with that short expression. It gives him 
but an idea, all the rest lies with himself. A bar shoe works 
some very' fine cures occasionally, and it would be a benefit 
to shoers if a cut and a description of each case of the kind 





Figs. 134 and 135— Still Additional Forms of Bar Shoes. 

were published. Some smiths pride themselves on making" 
a bar shoe without welding the bar separately. It is just 
as convenient to weld the bar across if yoa have a piece of 
iron at hand suitable. Some blacksmiths place a gum or 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



229 



leather pad over the bar to rest the fro^ on, and to act as a 
cushion. Oftentimes this device produces g'ood results. 
The results of the application of a bar shoe are very uncer- 
tain. Some smiths can fit an ordinary shoe with g*ood suc- 
cess, but are totally in darkness when the least judg-ment 
or ingenuity is required in the work. In the application 
and proper fitting of a bar shoe to a horse's foot there is 
need of great care. There are many floormen who have 




Fig. 136— Showing the Shoe J. F. Button uses on Contracted Feet. 

the knack of setting a shoe after it has been fitted by the 
fireman with better results than if they nailed it when first 
fitted. In Figs. 131, 132, 133, 134 and 135 are given several 
forms of bar shoes. — By C. S. 

Shoeing Contracted Feet. 

I herewith explain my method of shoeing horses that 
have contracted feet. 
The hoof should first be well and neatly pared down, all 



230 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

dead horn removed from the sole and the wall thinned by 
rasping". I then shoe with a shoe made as shown in the 
illustration, Fig\ 136. I shape the shoe with the inside at 
the heels the highest. This has the tendencj^ to spread the 
foot. I leave this shoe on about three weeks, and then re- 
shoe, using a shoe with a little more spread. After a few 
re-settings 3^ou will have the heel as wide as required. 

I have shod a great many horses after this simple method, 
and never knew it to fail. In this section of the country 
the ground is ver^^ hard and dr}^ and in consequence the 
hoofs of horses are apt to get very hard and dry. For such 
I use the following liniment to soften : 

Linseed Oil 4 ozs. 

Saltpetre 4 ozs. 

Oil of Spike 2 ozs. 

Aqua Ammonia 2 ozs. 

Soak the entire hoof Avith this twice a day, and there will 
be no trouble with hard dry hoots.— Bij J. F. Button. 

Tool for Measuring Angle of Horses' Hoofs. 

I have an instrument for measuring the angle of a horse's 
hoof, which I describe for the benefit of my bi'other smiths. 
The tool complete is seen at Fig. 137. Hold the foot in 
position between the knees, with shoe removed ; place the 
pron,£^s A, A, level on each quarter, with the toe touching 
the upright at B ; push the upright tight to the wall of the 
foot in front, tighten the thumb screw C, when you will 
find the correct angle marked. It will fit an}- size foot. 

The piece A, A, D, is made from a piece | x ^ inch split 
to F. The prongs are drawn to | x ^^ inch, and per- 
fectly level on top. Make slot hole at 5, IJ x ^ of an 
inch. Saw a slot, D, in which fasten the quadrant. The 
upright is made from a piece fV^i inch, 6| inches long", 
with slot and set screw at G, to slide over the quadrant, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



231 



which is made from a piece of steel j\ x j% inch. The 
figures are put on with acid. Flow melted beeswax over 
the quadrant ; be careful to have every part well coated, 




Trru>i^'\\\\\nin\\i^ 



I Fig. 137 — Tool for Measuring Angle of Horse's Hoofs > 

mark the fig"ures throug"!! the wax,and cover with sulphuric 
acid ; it will eat into the metal where the wax has been 
removed. — By D. F. K. 

How to Treat Horses' Feet for Corns. 

Corns in horses' feet are very often troublesome things 
that blacksmiths have to contend with in shoeing. The vari- 
ety and extent of the disease is at times somewhat perplex- 
ing, and it is not much wonder that the question is so often 
asked : " What is the best way to get rid of them ?" 

In this article it is not the intention to enter into a 
detailed statement of the various stages of the disease, nor 
to give methods of treatment that ought to be, or should 
be pursued by a veterinary surgeon. I will simply indicate 
a general method that may be adopted at blacksmith or 
horseshoeing shops. 

The causes that lead to corns are various and extensive. 



^32 - THE PRACTICAL HOiiSESHOEK. 

It mig'ht be safely said that there is no particular cause for 
corns at all, notwithstanding- the learned opinions and diag- 
noses of many writers. 

It is g-enerall}^ said that the shoes, or shoeing-, cause them, 
when, in fact, it is well known that corns gTOw in feet that 
have had, perhaps, only one shoeing- — but the blacksmith 
has often to bear the blame where there oug*ht to be none, 
and to quietly listen to the inuendo and remote insinuations 
that are often leveled at him. The writer has often seen 
feet diseased by corns, when there was no possibility^ of the 
shoes having- caused them — yet shoeing- causes them some- 
times, and also proper shoeing- can perfect a cure in some 
cases. 

Corns and bruises of the sole are commonly seen in 
horses' feet, and they are caused in some cases by a g*eneral 
weakness of the foot, in others by an undue pressure of the 
shoe at a particular point ; or by the shoe being- loose and 
g-ravel and other substances g-athering- under it, and there- 
by being" hammered into the sole ; or by a tendency of the 
foot to contraction, which obviously causes an unnatural 
pressure on the weaker portions of the foot, thereby causing- 
a squeeze which results in corns or other bruises. 

Ag-ain, corns will appear in feet when we can hardly 
account for them, but when the^^ are there we must do what 
Ave can to eradicate them. Therefore allow me to advance 
a g-eneral method of treatment that can be pursued in every 
ordinary case that is usually treated by a horseshoer. 

On examining- the foot, if it needs paring-, pare it down to 
the customary limit. Then if the corn is of recent orig-in, 
pare it out so that the affected parts will be below the level 
of the other parts of the foot ; fit the shoe so that it will bear 
evenly and level all around on the outer crust of the foot — 
keeping- it slig-htly off the sole all around, and particularly^ 
at the point where the corn is seated. It is, perhaps, a g-ood 
idea to lightly cauterize the parts with a small heated rod. 



The practical HORSESHOEIt. ^33 

and to occasionally apply a little turpentine or good hoof 
ointment to the affected parts. 

Of course this treatment is for new corns, but for old and 
stubborn ones a different course will have to be adopted, 
which should be about as follows : Pare around and down 
as deep as you can without injury to the healthy parts of 
the foot, which you must watch, so that you may not do any 
unnecesary cutting*. After having* the diseased parts well 
cleaned out, pour some turpentine into the cavity and fill 
with fresh horse manure. This is to keep any foreig-n mat- 
ter from entering-. Before stopping the cavity you might 
put in some pine tar and then stop with the manure. Fit 
the shoe neatly, and if you find it necessary in order to 
cover the cavity, you can broaden the shoe at that point so 
that it will cover it, but remember to keep the shoe from 
pressing at that part. When a foot is badly used up with 
corns, bruises, and misused from disease or otherwise, it is 
a very good plan to have the whole surface of the sole cov- 
ered by a leather covering, under which put some cotton or 
oakum, saturated with pine tar or some good foot ointment. 
It will stimulate the foot to a healthy growth and will soft- 
en it, which will tend to drive out that hard and bone-like 
nature which is a great hindrance to the healthy growth of 
the foot.— % I. A. C. 

Glycerine for Softening Feet. 

I beg to differ with those who believe in the use of cow 
manure or oil to soften hoofs ; the latter should never be 
employed and the former very seldom. M3^ objection to 
cow manure is, that by using it often, the ammonia it con- 
tains destroys the frog and produces thrush and hoof-rot. 
My objection to oils, tar, etc., is that they render the hoof 
brittle, and loosen the nails. The best thing that I have 
found is to have the owners of horses soak the horse's feet 
occasionally in cold water, and every few days apply giycer- 



284 



THE i>RACTICAL HORSESHOEIt. 



ine to the coronary ring, rubbing* it in well, especially in dry 
weather. I know from experience, that glycerine will soft- 
en and toughen the hoof. The difference between tar and 
oil and gh-cerine is that the two former close the pores and 
keep out water, while glycerine will mix with water, which 
I have found in my practice to be the best for horses' feet. 

A 




Fig. 138-A Shoe for Draught Horses. 

I do not think I know all about horseshoeing, by any means, 
notwithstanding I have run a shop for quite a number of 
3'ears. I am learning and expect to continue to learn some- 
thing every da3\ — By Rab of the Wynde. 

Two Improved Horseshoes. 

If a draught horse pulls from the outside toe, the outside 
quarter will wire, and to overcome this tendency I have de- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



235 



signed the shoe shown in Fig*. 138. The device maybe ap- 
plied to an}^ ordinary shoe in tlie following- manner : Weld 
the toe piece A on the shoe, making* the piece extend over 
the outside rim of the shoe from half an inch to one inch. 
Then stave up the outside heel of the shoe sufficiently^ to get a 




Fig. 139— A Side-Weight Shoe. 



good, broad covering for the narrowed heels and quarters. 
Use the round fulling tool to swedge the shoe, and swedge 
wide enough to get a good bar pressure. Turn up the 
heels, weld a calk on the outside heels and fit the shoe snug 
to the wall, up to both sides of the frog. The effect of the 
projecting toe piece is to brace or stay the weak part of 



236 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



the ankle and foot. After two or three shoeing-s the foot 
will regain its natural movements. Fig-. 138 repjesents 
the shoe as designed for draught horses. Fig*. 139 is a side 



weig-ht shoe for improving the action behind, 
shoe also for some cases of interfering. 



I use the 




Fig. 40— How to Kill a Horse. 

In the engraving A B denote a line dividing the foot. C 
is the outside or weighted side of the shoe. D and E indi- 
cate the degrees to which w^eight may be added in the web. 
When the shoe requires additional weight to carry the foot 
out, this w^eight may be added in the web up to the line D, 
and if more weight is needed increase the Aveb toward E, 
I have used this shoe for ten years with good results. — 
By G. E. R. 

How to Kill a Horse. 

Though the horse is one of man's most faithful servants, 



THE PRACTICAL HOESESHOEB. 



237 



it sometimes becomes advisable, for the servant's own good, 
that tlie master should turn executioner. ^ 

It is not a pleasant task the man then finds before him. 




rig. Ul-A cowboy Halter. Shovvtag the Bands, Knots, Loop a.d Latch, 

It is not one that most men know how to properly per- 
form. 



238 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

Through the nervousness or inability of the executioner 
numbers of the poor animals are needlessly tortured when 
it becomes necessary to put them to death. The American 
Society for Preveution of Cruelty to Animals has formulat- 
ed the following- rules : 

First. — Shoot with a 32-caliber or larger pistol, at the 
point indicated by a dot in Fig. 140, placing the muzzle 
within a few^ inches of the head. 

Second. — Aim four or five inches above the head. 

Third. — Be careful not to shoot too low. 




Fig. 142— The Theodore Knot Shown at C in Fig. 141. 

Cowboy Halter. 

In this connection is illustrated one of those marvelous 
productions of the w^ild West, a cowboy halter. The artist 
has succeeded in very full^^ portraying the appearance of 
this remarkable piece of harness, even to the wonderful 
knots which it contains. 

In adjusting the halter the rope at the point A, Fig. 141, 
goes back of the ears. B is the brow band in front of the 
ears, and is always made of light leather, as there is no 
strain on it. C is perhaps, all things considered, the most 
remarkable knot ever tied. There are only a few people, 
it is said, in the West even, who understand its in- 
tricacies. It is called the '' Theodore knot," and is said to 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



239 



be tied without ends to work with. This knot is shown en- 
larged and loosened in Fig*. 142, so as to give our readers a 
chance, if possible, to trace the different strands composing 




Fig. 143— First Step in Tying the Theodore Knot. 

it. The artist has shaded each rope differently, solely for 
the purpose of showing as near as possible how the knot is 




Fig. U4— Second Step in Tying the Theodore Knot . 

tied. Of course practically all the ropes are alike, 
halter before us is made of quarter-inch rope 



The 
D is Avhat is 




Fig. 145— Third Step in Tying the Theodore Knot. 

called a '* Turk's Head/' or Hackamore knot, and is also 
more or less complicated and difficult to understand. E rep- 
resents the throat latch. F is the loop to which the lariat 
is attached. 



240 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOEK. 



The Theodore Knot. 

I will tr}^ and explain how I tie the Theodore knot used 
on the Cowboy Halter. 

First, you take a rope and double it twice so as to have 
four strands. Then take the strand No. 1 in Fig*. 143 and 
wind it around the others as shown. Then take strand No. 
3 and double it around as shown in Fig. 144 ; hold the 
strands with your fingers so they will not slip, until you 
get them all in place. Then take strand No. 2 and double 
it around as shown in Fig. 145 and stick the end through 
the loop A made with strand No. 3. Next take strand No. 




Fig. 146— The Theodore Knot Complete. 

4 and double it around as shown in Fig. 146, and put the end 
through the loops B and C made with strands 3 and 1. 
When you have finished this, pull all the strands together 
and draw the knot tight, because if ybu pull one strand 
harder than another it will pull the knot out of shape. 
From this explanation I think almost anybody will be able 
to tie the knot. I don't think it canj^e tied without putting 
the ends through the two last used strands, Nos. 2 and 4. 
Therefore be sure and place the two strands that are used 
first, Nos. 1 and 3, first and third, because they have no 
ends. If, as claimed by some it could be tied without ends, 
it would come untied. — By W. K. HiGGiN. 



CHAPTER XI. 

^ DOCKING. 

The Process of Docking Described and Illustrated — Is the 
Process a Cruel One? — Objections and Advantages — 
New York Fashion. 

To dock, or not to dock, that is the question. Whether 
'tis nobler in the mind to suffer the sling's and arrows of 
outrag-eous fashion, by not having" your horse's tail docked 
or to take up arms against a sea of troubles, liable to be 
heaped upon you by the Massachusetts society with the long* 
name, if 3"ou conform to the modes of the day in respect to 
your horse. 

As nearly every one who owns a horse is well aware, it 
is the *^ fad "nowadays to drive, ride on, or ride behind, a 
horse with a docked tail. Webster says to dock is to cut 
off, as the end of a thing, to cut short, to curtail, to clip; 
and that is just what is done to the tail of a horse that is 
afterward said to be '^docked." 

Years ago, before it was found necessary to org-anize so- 
cieties to suppress and prevent cruelty to animals, the sim- 
ple act of docking a horse's tail was not considered even of 
enough consequence to cause a passing- note or comment, 
but in these days of progressive ideas things are different. 

The man who docks horses' tails says he subjects the 
horse to little or no pain or inconvenience afterward, and he 
satisfies the craving of public taste for thing's that are fash- 
ionable as well as beautiful, 



24:2 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



The word having" been g-iven that the surgeon was ready 
to dock the horse, bandages were put around the horse's 
hind fetlocks and lower leg's. Around the bandages a leather 
strap at the end of a long rope was placed, the other end of 
the rope being* tied about the horse's neck, and resting on 



Fig. 147--Cauterizing Tool. 

the breast. '' This," said the operator, ^' is done to prevent 
accident caused by the hdrse kicking, but it is not a neces- 
sit3^" At the horse's head stood a man with twisters about 
the horse's nose, which he tightened onl}^ slightly. The 




Ftg. 148— Docking Machine. 



horse being now tied, and in a vise, so to speak, so that he 
could do no damage, a strong cord was twisted and tied on 
his tail about half an inch above where the horse's owner 
desired to have the tail docked. The operator explained that 




Fig. 149— The Pricking Knife. 

this binding was done to prevent the flow of blood from the 
tail after the cutting. The rope being bound tightly about 
the tail, the operator brought into requisition a queer-looking 
machine, Fig. 148, made very much after the st} le of a lemon 
squeezer. On the upper portion of the ' ' squeezer, ' ' near the 



teE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



243 



end where the two pieces of wood connected, was a semi- 
circular bladed knife, and on the lower portion a bed in wiiich 
the knife rested wlien the machine closed up. The operator 
got the hoi'se's tail between the handles of this machine as 
shown in the accompanying- illustration. Fig. 152, and in a 
jiffy the knife closed down on the tail and a portion dropped 
to the floor. As the knife penetrated the member the horse 
winced for a moment, but after the member was severed 
he did not seem to suffer. The next portion of the opera- 
tion was the singeing or cauterizing of the end of the tail 
that remained on the horse. A singeing iron, Fig. 147, 




Fig. 150--The Flag-Tail Horse, after Docking and Pricking. 



white with heat, resembling in every respect a common car- 
riage nut wrench, with a small hole in one end, was brought 
into use. While the '^ docker " moved this iron over the raw 
part of the tail the horse again showed signs of pain, but his 
actions were not violent enough to disturb in the least the 
man working the hot iron, who ver^^ complacently puffed the 
cigar in his mouth and attended strictly to business without 
saying a word. In less than two minutes from the time the 
horse was hitched the entire process of docking was over, 
all the fixtures about the horse to keep him quiet Avere re- 
moved, and the dumb beast with the new^-f angled and fash- 



2M 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



ionable tail had his nose stuck in his hay rack pulling* down 
hay to eat, little thinking- what a great change a moment 
had made in his appearance, and what a want he filled for 
the wealthy gentleman who desired to be in the fashion. 

The practice of docking, as it is at present done, is not in 
the least cruel, for the cutting off of the tail is almost in- 
stantaneous. The tail is cut straight across between the 
bones nowadays, and not as it used to be cut in docking a 
few years ago. Then the tail was cut V-shape and the 
eds-es were sewed together and allowed to heal. It took 




Fig. 151— A Short Dock. 



some time for healing, and the lower end of the appendage 
was sore till the part healed entirely. Now every particle 
of soreness ends with the cauterizing- of the part cut. 

Docking and pricking a horse's tail makes the horse hold 
his tail almost straight up in the air as shown in the ac- 
companying cut. Fig. 150. Docking a horse to conform to 
the present fashion makes him hold the stub of his tail 
almost straight out from his body, and tliat in itself is not 
cruel, and can hardly come under the head of crime, inso- 
much as the hair in the tail is almost as long after the end 



T^HEi PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



245 




bo 

a 

o 

o 
Q 



to 



M6 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



of the tail is cut off as before the docking* is done. To make 
the tail conform to the present fashion, the hair must be cut 
off up to within a foot or so of the root; and then again, this 
practice is hardly any more cruel than the simple banging- 
of a horse's tail, without docking, and banging is an every- 
day occurrence. The pricking- is done after the docking is 
finished. A pricking blade (a cut of wiiich is shown here- 
with, Fig. 149), is run into the horse's tail at one side and 
then the other in two or three parts. Then the ^* pricker '' 
draws the knife towards the outer end of the tail, cutting- 




Fig. 153— Banged Tail Cob. 



all the muscles and tissues on its path. Once cut, the tail 
is drawn up and hitched with a puUe^^ block in the position 
the ow^ner desires the horse to carry his appendage, and in 
that position it is held till all the cuts made in the operation 
are healed. 

After this operation is performed, the hair in the tail is 
cut to suit the fashionable tastes. If the old-fashioned 
'^flag" tail is desired — that is to say, such a tail as Flora 
Temple had — the hair in the tail is close trimmed on the 
sides, combed flat and parted on top. If only the ordinary 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 24Y 

dock is wanted, the hair in the tail is cut off in bang fashion 
without other trimming'. If some other style is wanted, the 
man with shears must make that st^'le, for the veterinary s 
part of the fashion ends with the docking and pricking. 

The fashion in New York is to put a long dock, with square 
or fan ends, on a heavy brougham horse. To secure the 
proper effect on a tail of this nature, there must be an ample 
supply of long hair before the docking is done. A long bang 
is the favorite style of tail for the saddle horse, and when 
properly trimmed it becomes a desirable st^^le for the the 
coach horse. It is said to be the most abused of smj st^^le, 
as stablemen who want to imitate fashion, and at the same 
time rid themselves of much trouble in cleaning and comb- 
ing, can clip the hair without removing the tail. 

A long, heavy tail is the fashion on heavj^, slow-moving, 
high-stepping coach horses, while the *^ pancake," which is 
short, but, instead of being cut square, is trimmed to hang 
with rounded ends, is a style for riding to saddle or in a two- 
wheeler. 

What are known as cob horses are the kind of horses 
generally docked. In the language of a stableman, a cob 
is a little horse, big at both ends. By that is meant a full 
made horse that is not too large for carriage or family use. 
Cobs come from all sections of the country, and are of no 
particular breed. The^^ bring a much larger price with 
docked tails than without. Docking is an '' Enghsh " fash- 
ion, and that is wh}'' it is now so popular in America. It is 
sometimes desirable to dock a horse to cure him of ugliness 
and kicking, but full}^ ninety-nine of every one hundred 
horses docked have their tails cut off because their owners 
want to live up the fashion of the times. — Boston Herald. 



CHAPTER XII. 

TIPS FOR TROTTERS. 

This Method Growing in Favor — Diseased Feet Cured 
by the New Method — The Simpson Tip — Toe 
Weights and Tip Combined. 

Among- the problems which have engaged the attention 
of horsemen the world over is how best to protect the equine 
foot, and at the same time interfere in the least possible 
wa}^ Avith the natural condition of that valuable member. 
In America, where the harness horse has been brought 
nearer to perfection in grit and speed than anywhere else, 
the subject of shoeing has been carefully studied, and, as a 
result, many of the difficulties arising- from old-time methods 
have been successfully overcome. From the heavy draught 
horse to the fast roadster or racing trotter, there has been 
a general improvement in the fashioning and appliance of 
footgear, so that to-day there is a vast difference between 
the crude mass of iron used by the Arabs and Moors in the 
middle ages and the neatly turned pieces of steel or iron 
forged by the expert horseshoers of the United States. 

Since races came in vogue the care of the animal's foot 
has been more closely studied than when the horse was sim- 
ply a beast of burden, and the famous drivers of the last 
quarter of a century have achieved much of their success by 
giving special attention to shoeing the flyers they trained 
and drove. The late Dan Mace, whose pre-eminence as a 
reinsman earned him the soubriquet of the Wizard of the 
Sulkey, was one of the first professional drivers to make a 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 240 

close study of this subject, and his quick perception enabled 
him to see where many evils resulting from old methods of 
making- and nailing on the shoe could be remedied. He 
was the first prominent driver to apply toe weights, w^hose 
use has done much to correct imperfections in the gait of 
the trotter and enabled Maud S. to attain to the unparallel- 
ed speed of a mile in 2:08f. Other famous whips, such as 
Hickok, of California ; Doble, of Chicago ; Murphy, of New 
York; Goldsmith, of Orange County, and John Splan, of 
ever^^where, have followed in Mace's footsteps and included 
shoeing in the curriculum of their professional course. 
But with all the improvement, the vise-like character of 




Fig. 153— Modern Model Shoe. 

the orthodox shoe remains, a sample of w^hich is shown in 
Fig. 153 and many a promising trotter has broken down 
when on the threshold of a brilliant career by reason of 
his inability to wear the iron band which has been consid- 
ered indispensable to his education and development. 

Even those w^ho have not given the subject any consider, 
ation can see at a glance that the immovable piece of metal 
on the horse's foot hinders the natural growth of the outer 
shell or wall which covers and protects the delicate mechan- 



^50 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOfift. 



ism that enables the anhnai to attain his flight of speed. 
This cramping' of the Avail or crust brings about numerous 
diseases, the most prevalent of Avhich is that known as con- 
traction, of which an example is shown in Fig. 153. This 
the reader ma^^ compare with the healthy foot shown in 
Fig. 154. In its natural state the horse's foot is nearly 
round and slightly wider than it is long. Shoeing has the 
effect of changing this natural shape by elongating the hoof 
and by keeping the heel from spreading, causing the con- 
traction above referred to, the hete noir of every horseman 
and the chief enemy of every horse that has worn shoes. 
Other common ailments from the same cause are corns, 




Fig. 153— Bad Case of Contraction. 



produced by the pressure on the heel, and quarter cracks, 
which- result from the bursting or splitting of the wall of 
the foot owing to the unusual thinness of the horn, Avhich 
being bound \}y the shoe is not strong enough to withstand 
the pressure from within. 

It is claimed b}^ man}^ practical horsemen that a radical 
remedy has been found for these and kindred diseases that 
come from the stereot3"ped method of shoeing. This is the 
use of what are known as tips, which are nothing more 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOEK. 251 

than shoes without heels. Tips in a crude form have been 
in use for a long- time, and were probably employed as a 
protection to horses that were turned out to graze, and de- 
signed to prevent the front of the hoof from breaking' off 
in the pasture. The wild horse is constantl}^ on the move, 
and the hoo^f is thus worn down proportionate to its growth, 
but the domesticated animal is less active and even un- 
broken colts require to be looked after to see that the feet 
do not grow too long. Close observers found that when a 
horse had become so crippled from shoeing that he could 
no longer be driven, the quickest remed^^ was to remove the 
shoes, tack on a light plate or tip, and give the animal a 
rest. Nature soon worked a cure when there was no iron 
band to cramp the contracted heel, and the horse was re- 
stored to usefulness. Further experiment showed that 
these tips could be utilized for every-da^^ wear when the 
horse was in harness, and with good results. Gradually 
the use of tips has been tested and investigated, until to-day 
there are manj^ horsemen who have discarded the old-time 
shoe entirely, and use nothing but tips. 

For racing purposes the tip has also been tested, and 
with results claimed to be satisfactory^ Joseph Cairn 
Simpson, editor of the San Francisco Breeder and Sports- 
man, is the acknowledged pioneer in adapting tips to the 
trotting race horse. Mr. Simpson is a veteran breeder and 
trainer of trotters, and in common with his fellow turfmen 
used the regulation shoe covering the foot to the heel. 
Some years ago his attention was attracted to the use of 
lips, and he began to experiment with them on his own 
horses, both runners and trotters. The results of his inves- 
tigations, extending over a period of about fifteen years, is 
told in a book published by Mr. Simpson entitled ^' Tips and 
Toe Weights." The most notable instances of Mr. Simp- 
son's success with tips are the turf performances of the tAvo 
stallions, Anteeo and Antevolo, bred by him from Elec- 



252 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

tioneer, out of his mare Columbine, by A. W. Richmond, 
dam Columbia,, by the famous thoroughbred racer Bonnie 
Scotland. Both Anteeo and Antevolo were shod with tips, 
as in Fig'. 155, as colts, and their entire development and 
training Avere conducted with no other protection for their 
feet. In 1885 Mr. Simpson's efforts were crowned with two 
fast performances by the horses, when Anteeo, then six 
years old, trotted a mile in 2:16^, and Antevolo made a 
record of 2:19^ in his four-^^ear-old form. 

One of the most valuble results of Mr. Simpson's inves- 
tigations was the improvement made by him in the applica- 
tion of the tip. At first it was placed on the foot, like the 
shoe, and tapered or feathered to a point to keep the hoof 
as level as possible. In this form the healthy growth of 
the frog and natural shape of the foot were retained, but 
it was almost impossible to balance the horse properl}^, 
and there was an undue strain on the tendons. Mr. Simp- 
son tells how he got over this drawback to his pet hobby, 
as follows : " I made the tip of nearly a uniform thickness, 
a majority of them having a quarter of an inch of metal; 
which was filed square. A shoulder was cut in the wall, 
and so much of the sole as the width of the web required 
and all back of the shoulder was left full and rounded with 
a file to protect the edge." 

Since the first adoption of this method of letting in the 
tip till it is level with the uncovered part of the foot there 
has been another improvement, namely, the cutting of the 
ends to a point, or diagonally, as shown in Fig. 156. 

'' In the Spring of 188G," said Mr. E. T. Bedford, of the 
Thompson & Bedford Co., to a reporter of the /S'wii recently, 
*'I purchased the chestnut mare Kitty Patch en, by Job 
Stuart. She had won several races, and in 1884 made a 
record at Boston of 2:21;^. In 1885 the mare was campaigned 
again, but with no success, owing to the bad condition of 
her feet. Her trainer, A. J. Feek, of Syracuse, said she had 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 253 

bruised her heel, and she was then shod with the ordinary 
shoe, with a pad and sponge between the shoe and foot. 

'' When I purchased Kitty Patchen," continued Mr. Bed- 
ford, ''her feet w^ere in a terrible condition. What with 
the fever prod uced by contraction and the result of con- 
stant soaking', her hoofs were so brittle that they could be 
broken with the finger and thumb, and the mare suffered 
with corns and stood with her feet forward in an unnatural 
position. At first I had her shod with bar shoes, which 
relieved the corns temporarily^ by removing the pressure. 




Fig. 154— Sole of a Healthy Foot. 

As the hoof grew out the trouble returned, and I resolved 
to try wiiat the use of tips would do. I followed Mr. Simp- 
son's instructions, and Kitty found instant relief ; the corns 
disappeared, the hoof resumed its natural consistency, and 
instead of a cripple I soon had a trotter free from lameness. 
To-day the mare has as good feet as any horse in my sta- 
ble, and I believe she can go faster than when she was on 
the turf. Late last Fall, on election day, in fact, I drove 
her half a mile to wagon in 1:11 J and a mile to a road cart 
in 2 :24J. With a lighter driver, but over regulation w^eight, 
she trotted a mile to sulkey in 2: 21 J, which is within half a 



254: THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

second of her best race record, and that with no preparation. 
These trials were all done in tips, and at Korwalk, Conn., 
in 1886, Kittj^ trotted publicly in 2:26^, winning* a five-heat 
race." 

^' Wherein do 3^ou think tips are chiefly to be preferred to 
shoes?" was asked. 

'• Because the3^ give a horse the use of the whole foot," 
replied Mr. Bedford, ^' sole, frog* and horn, thus enabling- 
the natural elasticit^^ to be fully exerted. I believe they 
tend to make a horse trot more squarely and keep the g"ait 
natural. I know that in Kitty Patchen's case boots were 
discarded after she was shod with tips, and her g-ait 
improved visibly." 

^' Would you do away entirely with the reg-ulation shoe ?" 

" Most assuredl}^ My own experience convinces me that 
for trotters and roadsters tips are the thing. I drive my 
horses over all kinds of roads, and their feet keep in per- 
fect condition. I have observed, also, that many draught 
horses in New York and Brooklyn wear tips, and the}^ are 
noticeable for the good condition of their feet. If j^ou will 
examine the horses used by the Havemej^er Sugar Refinery, 
for instance, you will see that they do their heavy work in 
tips." 

Among the smiths of the metropolis that make and nail 
shoes on fine road horses and trotters George Staples is 
probably the most famous.- Staples is a New Englander^ 
Avho Avas for many years the foreman of Dan Mace's well- 
known shop on upper Broadway. Though now in his 
seventy-fifth year, Staples continues activel}^ at work and 
has charge of an establishment on Fift3^-eighth street, near 
Broadway. This veteran knight of the forge has shod some 
of the famous trotters, living and dead, and looked after 
Maud S.'s feet when W. H. Vanderbilt owned her. 

When asked his opinion of tips, Mr. Staples said : *^ The}'- 
^.re a very good thing, but few people know anything about 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



255 



them. Xo, I don't shoe man^^ of the trotters that come here 
with tips. I know of one ov two that use them. Yes, the 
old style of shoe causes contracted feet, corns and other 
troubles. I can manag'e corns quite easil^^, if the horse 
comes reg'ularh^ by cutting- away the heel slightly to take 
off the pressure. For contracted feet I use a spring, 
invented by Mr. Mace, to expand the heel, and this helps to 
keep the foot in its natural condition. I scarcely think tips 
will supersede shoes, for they do not suit all kinds of feet, 
in my opinion." 
Mr. Staples then selected a shoe that had been used on 




Fig. 155— The Simpson Tip Set on the Foot. 



the forward foot of a fast trotter, from which the cut used 
to illustrate the modern style of shoe is made. 

'' You will notice," he remarked, '*^that there has been a 
great improvement in making shoes of late years. Instead 
of the great load of iron that was once the regulation st3^1e, 
the shoe is much lighter, and steel is greatly used nowa- 
days. Then, again, we do not cut the foot down, as for- 
merl}^, but the sole and frog are left in a natural condition. 
I suppose in some parts of the countr^^ they adhere to old 
methods 3'et, but here in New York we have learned by 



256 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

experience to interfere as little as possible with the natural 
condition of the foot." 

An inquiry at some of the large boarding- stables neat* the 
Park showed that here and there tips have been used with 
satisfactory results, especially where a horse has been made 
lame by the full-length shoe. John J. Quinn, 124th street, 
near Seventh avenue, said that he had used tips on trotters 
with success, but he did not think they would do for steady 
driving on the rough avenues. 

*' The fast mare Old Maid, who trotted at Fleetwood in 




Fig. 156— Autevolo's Tip. 

2:21| some four years ago, on a wager to beat 2:22 was 
shod with tips,'-' said Mr. Quinn, " and I think Johnny Mur- 
phy has used them on some of the horses he has trained." 

D. B. Herrington, manager of the Hudson River Driving 
Park and stock farm owned by Jacob Ruppert, at Pough- 
keepsie, was in the city recentl^^ and when asked what he 
thought of using tips for racnig replied: ''I have not 
given them a sufficient trial to test their use in a race, but 
I have tried them with good results as a cure for corns and 
quarter cracks. Some years ago I used those with ends 
drawn out or tapered to a point, but have not tried those 
set in the hoof after the Simpson method." 

W. C. Trimble, of Newburg, is one of the best known of 
the old-time trainers in the East and has had many success- 
ful campaigners through the summer circuit. He, too, has 
been experimenting with tips, and has become a strong 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 257 

advocate of their use. He first used them on a hig bay geld- 
ing- named Jim Brooker, who had made a record of 2:441 
in 1885 and had afterward broken down from terrible quar- 
ter cracks that developed whenever he was put in training-. 
The horse was sent to Mr. Trimble, who substituted tips 
for the troublesome shoes, and the trotter's feet healed up 
in a wonderfully^ short time. The veteran turfite considers 
tips a valuable boon to the horse sufl'ering from ailments 
caused by wearing shoes. 
A notable instance where tips are worn by a modern star 




Fig. 157— Toe-Weight and Tip Combined. 

of tlie trotting- turf is that of the gray gelding- Jack, 2:19|, 
the Chicago crack that stood at the head of the Grand Cir- 
cuit winners for. 1888. Jack is remarkably pure gaited and 
could be barefooted if necessarj^ Budd Doble used tips of 
about four ounces weight on Jack in his races last year, and 
the horse kept improving all the time, gradually lowering 
his record from Cleveland to New York, where he made his 
fastest mark in the Fleetwood Stake. 



258 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

In the 13001^ published by Joseph Cairn Simpson he ad- 
vocates the doing- awa^^ of the old method of weighting the 
trotter to bahmce him by adding to the shoe, and claims 
that better results can be obtained by the use of the toe 
weight in conjunction Avith the tip, as shown in Fig. 157. It 
is contended by turf men that one ounce of weight on the 
toe is equivalent to from one and a half to three ounces on 
the sole of the foot, tliough some trotters will not go level 
or fast with toe weights, and must be balanced by weight 
in the shoe or distributed about the foot in leather weight 
pockets. Others require the toe weights, which give the 
balancing medium in the smallest compass. 

As yet the use of tips is naturally looked on with con- 
servatism by man^^ horsemen, and like all other innovations 
it continues to be subjected to criticism and open opposition. 
In the face of the undeniable fact that there has been com- 
paratively little advance made in the general method of 
shoeing, and valuable horses are still ruined by unskillful 
and ignorant smiths, any plan that will obviate the present 
difficulties deserves a full and impartial trial. The question 
as to the utility of tips for racing purposes is really a second- 
ary one compared with the greater benefit that will follow 
anj' plan wherebj- the carriage and draught horse may be 
kept freer from the numerous disabilities of foot and limb 
which continue to be a serious drawback to their commercial 
value and term of usefulness. — N. Y. Sun. 



CHAPTER XIIL 

HORSE PHYSIOGNOMY. 

An Ingenious Theory of Mind Reading Applied to Many 
Conspicuous RaceTrack Favorites — Peculiarities of the 
Features Which Correspond with Well-Known Qualities 
of the Horse. 

** Horses are so much like men," said a shrewd Union 
Club man the other day, '^ that man^^ of the proverbs made 
for their riders apply equally well to the nag's, and even the 
general laws of ph^^siognomy may be studied out in a stable 
with results almost as satisfactor3^ as they w^ould be in a 
drawing"-room. You can tell — or most people think they 
can, at least — the character of a man by looking* at his face. 
I believe a practised eye can learn from the study of a 
racer's head what the character of his pace will be. It 
might even come to pass that a stud^^ of the heads of the 
contesting beasts would enable an expert to pick out the 
winner beforehand. Certain I am, at all events, that a 
horse's character is generally written in his features as in- 
deliblj^as is a man's." 

There is a venerable superstition that the front view of 
the average horse's head presents to the e3^e, not averse to 
seeing it, the general outlines of a cofTm. The idea is, of 
course, purely fanciful. Much, however, may be learned 
from the study of the equine features as shown in the ac- 
companying cut, Fig. 158. Glancing at the dimensions in- 
xdicated by the dotted lines A B, C D, E i^and I 



260 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

J", the horseman reads the character of his beast. Suppose 

this reader of the equine mind wanders into a famous stable 
the day before the Derby — a stable containing- several prob- 
able or at least possible winners. The horses, eight or ten 
of them, perhaps, have their heads out of the stalls and re- 
gard the new comer with languid interest. He sees a horse 
whose head is short from the e^^es to the ears, between the 

lines A B and E F. There is a slight concavity of 

the skull where the line C D crosses it. E F is not 




I — -^^P^ J 

P 

Fig. 158— Horse Physiognomy. 

as wide as it might be. The equine mind-reader can't tell 
yet whether his subject hasn't both strength and speed. 
But he knows almost to a certainty that he hasn't much 
sense and is probably deficient in courage and energy. 
Going to the next stall he sees a nag whose mouth is large 

and flabby-looking, the line I J being of goodly lengthy 

while the nostrils, on the contrary, are small and apparently 
inelastic. C D and E F msiy be generous in dimen- 
sions, but the small nostril is a bad sign for staying quali- 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



261 



ties. The horse can't g-et his wind in the heat of a terrific 
struggle without big, wide, sensitive nostrils. The hig 
heart to pump the air in and the big lungs to hold it — for it 
is a question how much of a supply of '^ wind " the animal 
must keep on hand during a race and how far nature permits 
him to renew it — are of no avail without the wide nostrils to 
gather it. 

Tlie next head that greets him with a whinny, a bright 
eye and a docile face is turned half sideways, as in Fig. 159. 




Fig. 159— Great Breadth of Jaw. 



The breadth of the jaw L iV^is shown to be great. The 

equine reader knows that he has streng-th and perhaps 
speed there. So he pursues his investigations, and at tlie 
close of the jaunt through this stable he maj^have mentally 
decided that three horses out of the ten are jDrobably 
safe to bet on. 

But there are a great many horsemen who deny that ac- 
curate judgments can be foi^med in this way. Whether 
judgments so formed are safe to tie to, especially to tie 
money to, is a new and an interesting question. Should the 



26^ 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



racing' season see it develop as it promises, it is not improb. 
able that amateur equine readers will be found as thick as 
flies along- Broadway, stopping- draymen to inquire' rf their 
animals are wide across the face, examining- the brain 
bumps of beer horses and the ej^es of carriage teams. 

Fig-. 160 is a portrait of Eurus, drawn from life. Proctor 
Knott is shown in Fig-. 161. 

In order to appreciate Eurus he must be seen in his stall 
as well as with his blinkers on, charg-ing- along' the track 




Fig. 160— Head of Eurus. 



with that deviltry which equine readers say the above pic- 
ture brings out in the ears and e3'es and general expres- 
sion. Looking at him carefullj^ it is seen that his face is 
slightl}^ "dished " below the eyes, and his nose has a round, 
Roman turn. His jaw is big and wide and, recurring to 

Fig. 158 Eurus is found to be wide along the line E F and 

big at C....D. He is, be^^ond a doubt, one of the most 
interesting- horses on the American turf. It is never safe 
to bet heavily against him in a race in which he is entered. 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



263 



There is no knowing' what we may do. His brain box, 

measured by C D, is very roomy. Eurus undoubtedly 

reasons. His temper is notorious. He is docile enough ex- 
cept on the track. '^ A lady could drive him." But in a 
race he sw^erves and does very much as he chooses. It runs 
ir the breed sometimes for a horse to act that way on the 
track. 

*' Eurus runs best on a muddy track/' it is often said. 




Fig. 161— Head of Proctor Knott. 

But none of the equine mind-readers profess to be able to 
tell that from lookmg at him. It is experience only that 
proves a horse to be good on the mud. That doesn't show 
in his features, but it shows in his action and in the actual 
record of what he has done. 

Looking" at Proctor Knott's picture no indication of the 
lack of '■' heart " or courage, or perseverance is seen. 
Proctor Knott is a coarse, ragged-looking plebeian of a 
horse. His head is unquestionably ugly, when compared 



^Gi 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



with even that of Eurus, whose expression is scarcely com- 
patible with heaut^^ Compared with the Bard of Hanover, 
Proctor Knott's *' plainness" becomes absolutely plain. 
His color is a mealy chestnut. The broad blaze widening" out 
over his nose does not enhance his looks. He is not wide 

across the eyes on the line E F(see Fig. 158), nor is his 

brain pan, shown by C D, to be capacious. 

Reading" a horse's character from his head is like trying* 
to read a man's character from his face. Nine times 




Fig. 162— Angle of Body and Forelegs. 

out of ten it may be all right. The other and tenth time it 
may be so widely and utterly wrong as to upset the entire 
theory. But it's the same way with men. When a crime 
requires intellect, skill and discretion for its execution it 
doesn't necessarily brand "criminal " on the man who does 
it. It's your brute crimes which so unmistakably stamp their 
impression on their perpetrators. All signs fail in dry weath- 
er. But you want your horse to have big nostrils and to 
be wide between the eyes. There is no doubt of that. 
And of course you want him to '^ fork close. " The angle, 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



S65 



as shown in Fig\ 162, between the forelegs where the^^ join 
the body must he acute, i^.nd 3^ou want a long reach from 
the hip down, a good second thigh, good muscles, and a 
g-ood lower bone. 

King Thomas is shown in Fig. 163, in all his untried 
splendor. He is the costliest yearling known to the Amer- 
ican turf. When sold at Madison Square Garden by Mr. J. 
B. Hagghi, King- Thomas was bought for $38,000 by 




Fig. 163— King Thomas. 

'' Lew" Appleby. In twenty-four hours Senator Hearst, 
who bid against Appleby- at the auction, bought King- 
Thomas for $40,000. He has never run yet, and nobody 
knows wiiat he can do. As shown by the artist, King- 
Thomas has a small head for his size — he is 16.1 hands high 
and is rather narrow between the ej^es. The general eifect 
of his countenance warrants his being called ''hatchet- 
faced." His nose is slightly Roman. He has a powerful 
chest and shoulders, and his length from hip to whirlbone 



26Q 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



(see Fig. 1G4) is good. King Thomas is a little bit ^' peaked 
behind,'' across the line ofZ....Z (Fig. 164). 

Close by his famous kinsman in the Chesterbrook Stable, 
the student of equine nature finds Eurocr3^don, full brother 
of Eurus. Eurocrydon is a large bay colt, evenly turned, 
with no dimensions indicating any very great power. 
Eurocrydon hasn't Eurus' brain width or his broad forehead. 
He has a big mouth and large nostrils. His head is bigger 
than that of Eurus, and he has the rather remarkabl}' un- 
interesting habit of sucking his tongue. The breed doesn't 
show facial]}^ in Eurocrydon. 

The Bard, shown in Fig. 165, has a strong neck and great 




Fig. 164— Showing Hip and Whirlbone. 



breadth of jaw, which is shown not only in the portrait, 
but also along the line L....N in Fig. 159. The Bard, 
as shown by his face, has a quiet disposition and a 
good temper. Some people remember Eurus and say ''only 
a fool horse will really run his best in a race after all." It 
is a problem worth studying whether Eurus doesn't reason 
it out that he will get just as much oats at night whether 
he runs or no. So the rogue no doubt thinks it out and 
concludes that it is just as safe for him to do as he pleases 
and a erreat deal funnier. But there is none of this rogue 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 267 

reasoning" in The Bard's face. His head is small and his 
mouth is so dainty that he could almost drink out of a pint 
cup. His head is short, and the brain measure across C. . . . 
D (see Fig". 158) is not so great as in Eurus. Across the line 
ii7. ... i^, between the eyes, the Bard's head is very wide, 
and his eyes are big, brown and gentle. The Bard's leg: is 
his great beauty. His hind leg is one of the finest known. 
It is as thin as one's hand and as solid and heavy as ivory. 
There is no porosity or w-eakness about it. The depth 




Fig. 165— The Bard. 

through the chest on the line T T (Fig. 163), is very great 

in the Bard. 

The creature is deceptive in appearance. He has to be 
analyzed for his fine points to be appi^eciated. He has both 
bottom and speed. He is tall to the point of legginess and 
unusually short from shoulder to cropper. Eurus has very 
broad quarters from hip bone to wiiirlbone, the Bard only 
medium. Most people like a broad quarter for a horse. 
Some good horses are broad behind and others are large 



268 



THE PRACTICAL IIORSESHOER. 



and peaked behind. When a horse is both short and peaked 
behind he isn't to be depended ou, many experts ag-ree. 
Nor, as far as that g'oes, is he to be depended on unless you 
can la}^ your three ttngers between his eyes. The Bard is 

notably narrow across the hnes Z Z (see Fig. 164), and 

i-emarkably broad in the stifles along- the line X F. Eu- 

rus is very deep from the eye line E jP to the ear line A 

B (see Fig. 158.) The hollows over a horse's eyes are 




Fig. 166 —Head of Hanover. 



natural and mean nothing in particular, though to an am- 
ateur they often give a wrong impression that there is some- 
thing the matter with the animal. Of course a horse shouldn't 
have such deep hollows that you could carry his feed in 
them. And while his neck should be muscular there 
shouldn't be an ounce of superfluous flesh on it. One thing 
is certain : if a horse doesn't look s^^mmetrical to the expert 
e^^e the chances are that he isn't all he ought to be. 

Hanover, the great Hanover, who has won more money 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 269 

than any three-year-old that ever started, is seen in Fig*. 
166, and presents another distinctl}^ interesting- type of 
horse physiognomy. Hanover has won seventeen races in 
succession. He is five years old and a brave, handsome 
creature. He went lame last year and a small portion of 
the nerve was removed from his leg. It wms feared this 
might impair his powers, but it did not. Hanover is of a 
high equine type ; he is wide between the e^^es and shows 
quality in his face, which is decidedly intelligent. His eye 
is full and big, his nose is straight, his muzzle is small, and 
the broad blaze on his face does not detract from the g^ener- 
al high-bred look of his hf^ad. He is over 16 Imnds high, 
and has long white stockings. His queer fashion of wag- 
ging his head from side to side as he runs has made him 
widely known on the track. — N. Y, Sunday World. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
OX SHOEING. 

Making and Fitting Ox Shoes. 

I will give 3^011 my ideas on ox shoeing-. The first point 
to be considered is the shoes, that is, which is the cheapest 
and best, machine or hand-made shoes ? There are several 
companies that make ox shoes. A malleable iron shoe is 
very good and cheap, but they will not fit all kinds of feet, 
especialh^ the hind ones. These are not so rounded as the 
front feet, and should not be so wide in the web. 

My idea of the best ox slioe is a hand-made one. It will 
give the best satisfaction to both parties. To be sure hand- 
made shoes cost a little more than machine-made ones, but 
you can make them at odd times, making some of them 
more and others less rounded at the toe or heel or both. 
Then b^^ having a stock on hand you will find shoes that 
Avill fit all kinds of feet, thereby saving enough time in 
putting them on to make up for the extra cost. I take the 
best refined iron, li inches by -{-^ inch, for hind shoes, and 
1| inches to If inches by yV ii^ch for front shoes. 'I should- 
er down and draw out the toe, then shoulder the heel the 
opposite way, bend over the horn to the desired circle, draw 
the inside edge thin> and punch the holes with a counter- 
sink punch so that the nail heads will fit. I like punching 
better than creasing, as it makes a stronger shoe, and one 
that will stay in place longer, because the strain comes on 
the head of the nail, instead of under it, as in most creased 
shoes. 

In fitting up the shoes I turn up the toe and heel, making 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



271 



a short calk, and punch the holes slanting- out, which has a 
tendency to make the inside of the shoe lie down on the 
bottom of the foot. I like six nail holes in the front shoes 
fitted for No. 5 nails ; for yery large oxen I use No. 6. 

Inputting- shoes on, the foot should be made perfectly 
level with a rasp, bavins' each claw on the foot the same 
height. When the feet are worn very thin and roundin «• the 
shoe shoQld be fitted carefully to the feet. Always have 
the shoe fit the outside wall and circle of the foot. A shoe 




Fig. 167-Frame for Shoeing Oxen. Scale one-fourth inch. 

may be a little short at the toe without serious dama o-g en- 
sumg, but It should be as long- as the foot at the heet and 
wide enough in the web to protect the bottom from injury 
In nailmg on, start your nail at the inside of the wall and 
do not go too high. Care should be taken to avoid drawin - 
the clinches too hard. Then with a V-shaped tool, cut in 
for the clinch and set into place. File the clinch only, as the 
shoe should fit the foot; do not file the foot to fit the shoe 
—By " Ox Shoes/' 



272 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 

Frame for Shoeing Oxen. 

I have shod oxen for thirt3^-four years, and think I can 
lay claim to some experience. Herewith I send 3^011 a draft 
of my ox frame, Fig\ 167. The sills of the frame are of pine, 
10 inches square and 12 feet long; ]DOsts, 8 inches square; 
foot and neck beams the same size ; plates and cross-plates, 
6x8; foot rest, 3x6, hard wood; diameter of rollers, 5 
inches, and they are made of hard wood ; stanchion-pins of 
hickory, and of the size that will woi'k eas}- in two-inch 
aug'er hole ; clevis } round iron with ^-inch pins, see Fig*. 
168 ; slings, 3 feet -1 inches long, and 2 inches wide, they 




Fig. 168— Foot Held by the Clevis. 

should be made of very heavy leather, two thicknesses be- 
ing stitched together, with iron clips at the ends to hold 
the chains ; the chains are 2 feet 6 inches long. I use 
heavy hickor}^ sticks to wind up the rollers and hold them 
in place. The ratchet ma^^ be used, as shown in the cut, 
if desired, but I prefer to allow the end of the winding stake 
to strike against the cross-piece. Use two-inch plank for 
your floor. This frame ma}^ look lieav^'-, but it is necessan^, 
for they get terribl^^ wrenched at times, and I should make 
it heavier rather than hghter.— ^^ Lott Phillips. 

Ox Swing. 

I enclose a plan for an ox swing tliat I am using, and 
one that works well. It is drawn to the scale of half an 
an inch to the foot, which will enable anyone who desires 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



2Y3 






O 

B' 

51 




274 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



to build one from the drawing- 1 enclose. Fig. 169 is a side 
view of the apparatus, and Fig*. 170 the front. It is built 
of lumber, six by eight inches, in sections. The floor is of 
tw^o-inch plank, raised one foot from tlie ground to prevent 
stooping on the part of the operator. The nailing pieces, A 




Fig. 170— End View. 



are three by four inches, raised eight inches from the floor. 
Each is furnished with tw^o devices, B, for securing the 
foot. They are let into the inside of the posts two-thu^ds of 
their thickness, and are secured by bolts. The rollers, C, 
are made of hard wood, six inches in diameter, and are 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



275 



made to turn by means of levers. One of these might be 
framed into posts, if desired, and the other one alone made 
to turn. The belt, a detail of which is shown in Fig. 171, is 
made of strips of harness leather eight inches wide, riveted 





o O 

O O 



o o 
o o 





Fig. 171 -Detail of Belt. 

together with rings of half-inch iron, and a short chain to 
roll upon the rollers. The stanchions shown in Fig. 170 are 
made to open toward both sides^ as there w^ould not be 
sufficient room if they opened from only one side. — By G. 
E. F. 

Making an Ox Frame. 

The accompanying sketch, Fig. 172, of an ox frame will 
prove useful to a great many. My father used a frame 
like it for many years, and it suited him very well. In 
making it hardwood is essential. The dimensions of the 
timber are 8 in. x 11 in. There are three rollers, as indicated 
in the engraving by the letters A, A and E. The bars, B, 
when inserted in holes made for the purpose in the rollers, 
enable the smith to wind up the chains, C. At the right of 
the illustration is shown the clip for holding the ox's foot, 
and on each side of the frame and underneath the belt can 
be seen bars to which the clip is attached, by passing the 
clip pins through the holes in the bars and clips.— ^^Z 
T. C. B. 



276 



TFE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 




B 

O 

a 

to 

a 

a 






rtuSWttV'-' 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



277 



Swing for Shoeing Oxen. 

Inclosed please find a description of an ox swing" I built a 
few years ago, which shows for itself. If occasion requires 
we can shoe all four feet at the same time with no inconven- 
ience to the ox, as he will lie in the straps and chew his cud 
as unconcerned as-you please, unless he is a fractious '^ crit- 
ter." In that case he will find himself in mid-air, kicking- 
at what ? Nothing, but having a fine country swing. In 



rcooR ABOx/zr 




-V i rVf- 






ffiAM£\ 7 FT. L ONG X 2 fT.f-m. \W/D£ 




FOOT BLOCK 



Fig. 173— Swing for Shoeing Oxen. 

the old style of frame there is too much lumber to bruise 
himself against. I have often heard the remark from cus- 
tomers, with regard to the old frame, ^*I would rather my 
oxen would do a hard day's work, or even a week's work, 
than be shod;" and thej^ were right. 

When not in use the straps hang to the frame A, Fig. 
1T3, b3^ the hooks hh. You will see there is nothing for the 
ox to brace against to hurt himself, as each motion gives 



278 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



liim a swing.* He is attached to the frame and hangs sim- 
ply by two chains from the main shaft, C, which goes across 
the frame to the side of the shaft, and to wliich is attached 
a large wheel to receive the rope for raising and lowering 
by a windlass in front. For fastening the feet I use straps 
which go round the feet twice and buckle. I have a head 
rope to keep the ox forward. 

The platform is 10 feet long by 3 feet wide, front of for- 
ward block 2 feet 6 in. from stanchion. Block, 14+ in. at 
the highest j)oint by 9 in. wide and 4 in. thickrhollowed and 
pitched toward the back ; also set on an anglOj'^as the foot 




Fig. 174— Straps for Ox Swings. 



will turn out when raised to the block. From stanchions to 
front of hind block, 6 feet. To make the hind block, take 
hardwood 3^ by 5 in., rabbit the loAver inside two inches 
deep, to receive the standards of plank, which are also cut 
into the inside sill of j)latform, which is G by 6 ; give pitch 
to suit the shoer. The platform, from floor of shop to floor 
of same, front, 1 foot 3 in., hind, 10 in., making a pitch of 
5 in. 

The straps, Fig. 174, from h to c, exclusive of chain, 4 
feet; from e to e, 4 feet ; from the strap, 6c to d, 21 in. ; 
from 6 c to 6 c, 3 feet, with brisket of same piece ; also the 



THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 2t9 

bucket strap from b c, 15 in. ; chain at d, 8 in. ; ditto at c 
and b, 15 in. ; at ee, 13 in. The above measures will make 
each foot come right with the frame above, hung- level 3 
inches from stanchions. The hook at c to receive the chain 
e 9 inches from front ; for chain b, 22 in. from front ; next b 
2 feet from hind ; chain d, center of frame, hind. 

The arranging of shaft above, raising and lowering the 
ox, can be fitted to suit the place. The cost of whole, com- 
plete, will not be far from $50. Another important part is a 
good head rope to keep the ox from swaging forward and 
hack.— By Lunk Head. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Angle of horse's foot 65 

Anvil, device to prevent 

shoes shpping on 65 

Arabian horse nail 11 

Arabian horseshoe 10 

Bar shoes 227 

Box for farrier 52 

Box for shoeing 48, 51 

Box for tools 50 

Calks, self-sharpening 219 

Calks, sharpening 221 

Calks, to make 187 

Chest founder, to shoe for. . 212 

Clicking, to cure 210 

Clincher, rotary 222 

Clincher, to make 47 

Club feet 205 

Cold fitting 107, 167, 171 

Contracted feet.. 110,112, 113, 
114, 117, 118, 120, 128, 129, 130, 
131, 132, 134, 137, 138, 139, 140 
Contracted feet, white pine 

pitch for 147 

Contraction, spreading for, 

119, 127 

Corns 171,207 

Corns, cause and treatment 

of 151 

Corns, how to treat 231 

Corns in horses' feet 150 



PAGE 

Corns, shoeing to prevent. . . 148 
Cracked hoof 187 

DoCKLVG, process of 241 

Dressing the foot 90 

Drop sole 213 

Farrier's box 52 

Feet, contracted. . 110, 112, 113, 
114, 117, 118, 120,128, 129,130, 

134, 137, 139, 140 
Feet, glycerine for softening, 233 

Fitting, cold 107,167,171 

Fitting, hot. 100, 104, 106, 107, 108 

Fitting, hot and cold 92 

Flat-footed horse, to shoe. . 198, 
199, 201, 203 

Foot, club 205 

Foot (crooked), to shoe.. 203, 204 

Foot, pumice.. 213 

Foot rest 53 

Foot (split). ... 185, 186, 187, 188, 

191, 193, 195, 196 

Foot, to dress 90, 92 

Forging 92 

Forging, shoeing to prevent 

176, 214 
Founder, what is it? 211 

Halter, Cowboy 238 

Hammer, shoeing 42 

Hoof-bound horses, to shoe. 187 



INDEX. 



PAGK 

Hoof pinchers 48 

Hoofs, split 93 

Hoof trimmers, a pair of 43 

Horse, how to Ivill 236 

Horse nail, Arabian 11 

Horse nail, Spanish 11 

Horse nail, Syrian 11 

Horse nails, to bend 45 

Horse nails, tool for clinch- 
ing 44 

Horse, physiognomy of 259 

Horses' foot, angle of 65 

Horse's foot, preparing for 

the shoe 87 

Horse's foot rest 53 

Horses, to shoe vicious . 67, 

74, 76 

Horses, to shoe iinrulj^ 70 

Horses, shoeing 20 

Horses, treatment of 13 

Horses, true way to shoe ... 96 

Horseshoe, Arabian 10 

Horseshoes, improved 234 

Horseshoes, slipping on an- 
vil, to prevent 65 

Horseshoeing 17, 27 

Horseshoeing, an idea in 225 

Horseshoeing, clinching nails 

in ...,.....' 223 

Horseshoeing, observations 

on 36,182 

Horseshoeing, rules for 34 

Horseshoe nails, driving 225 

Horseshoer's tool box 49 

Hot fitting. . . . 100, 104, 106, 107, 
108, J 30, 167, 171 

Interfering. . 92, 137, 153, 155, 
157, 158,^159, 160, 162, 163, 166, 
167, 169, 170, 171, 173, 175, 195 



PAGE 

Kicking horses, to shoe. . 69, 73, 

74,75 
Knee-spruQg horse, to shoe . . 198, 

204, 207 
Knot, the Theodore 240 

Over-reaching, to cure 162, 

167, 171, 175, 176 

Oxen, hot fitting for 102 

Ox frame, making 275 

Ox shoeing 270 

Ox shoeing, frame for 272 

Ox shoeing, swing for 277 

Ox swing 273 

Physiognomy, horse 259 

Pinchers, hoof 43 

Pinchers, spring 45 

Poulticing 138 

Quarter cracks 132, 134, 

178, 183, 184 

Rivet cutter 44 

SELF-sharpening calks 219 

Setting heels and toes 221 

Sharpening calks 221 

Sharpening toe calks, tool 

for 64 

Shoe for contracted feet. . . . 141, 

142, 145 
Shoeing, a country black- 
smith on 39 

Shoeing box 48, 51 

Shoeing contracted feet. . . . 110, 
112, 113, 114, 117, 118, 120, 128, 
129, 130, 132, 134, 137, 139, 140, 

229 

Shoeing flat-footed horses. . 198, 

199, 301, 203 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Shoeing hammer, to make, . 42 

Shoeing hoi'ses 20 

Shoeing horses, general di- 
rections 28 

Shoeing kiclving horses and 

mules 69,73,74,75 

Slioeing mule's contracted 

foot 145 

Shoeing oxen 270 

Shoeing stand 45, 55, 56 

Shoeing sound feet 98 

Shoeing to correct forging. . 214 
Shoeing to prevent corns. . . 148, 

151, 152 
Shoeing vicious horses, 67, 74, 76 

Shoes, bar 227 

Shoes, to fit 162 

Spanish horse nail 11 

Split foot 185, 186, 187, 188, 

191, 193, 195, 196 

Split hoofs 92 

Stand for shoeing 45, 55, 56 

Stocks for shoeing kicking 

horses and mules 78, 83, 85 

Striking, to prevent 209 

Stumbling horses 207, 208 

Swage for calks 159 



Swing for shoeing kicking 

horses 78 

Syrian horse nail . 11 

Thick-heeled shoes 216 

Thrush 204 

Tip, shoeing with 207 

Toe calks 171 

Toe calks, to sharpen .... 57, 59 

Toe tips '. 175 

Toolbox 50 

Tool box for horseshoers 49 

Tool for clinching horse nails 44 

Tool for drawing clips 57 

Tools for horseshoers 42 

Tool for sharpening toe calks 64 
To shoe a horse injured by 

calking ... 217 

To shoe a horse that crosses 

one leg over the other 222 

Tool for measuring angle of 

horse's hoof 230 

Trotters, tips for 248 

Turned foot, to cure 209 

Welding toe calks 171 




Pr DIIDI^C Successor to 

, h bUKKLy C.F.DEWICK&CO. 

Manufacturer of A 

PATENT STEEL 1^ 

(Blunt and Sharp ) tiiillSMlHlBlll 

TOE-CALKS. 

— ALSO— 
BlTRKES IMPKOVEU 

HORSESHOERS' /f^^i^^ 
FOOT VICE. 

Send for Circulars. 

360 DOrClieSter ^V. Die fur^Welding 
BOSTON, MASS. Sharp Calks. 




PRACTICAL BLACKSMITHING 




Is a new book compiled from the practical articles which have appeared from time to time 
duriny: the past few years in the columns of " The Blacksmith and WHEiiLWKiGHT. 

Volume I. relates to Ancient Blacksniitlling:, and gives illustrations 
with descriptions of some ancient tools; tells how Hammers Should Be Made; 
and gives Plans Of Black Smiths' Shops, and a variety of plans of ForgeS, 
and the best way to build Chimneys. Illustrations and descriptions of a great variety of 
Tongs, Hammers, Punches and Cold Chisels are given. 

Two prize articles on Blacksmiths' XoolS, which have appeared in " The 
Blacksmith and Wheelwright," are printed in full. 

There are five chapters in the book, each complete in itself. 

Chapter I. treats of Ancient and Modern Hammers. Chapter II. 
Ancient Tools. Chapter III. Chimneys, Forges, Fires, Shop 
Plans, "Work Benches, etc. Chapter IV. Anvils and Anvil Tools. 
Chapter V. Blacksmiths' Tools. 

There is no book like it in the language: in fact, a work on blacksmithing has never before 
been published in this or any other country. As the publisher has decided to offer the work 
at a /ow price, with a view of larg-e sales, the b-)ok is likely to find its way into the hands of 
all good blacksmiths wherever located. It will be sent post-paid to any part of the country 
on receipt of price, $l.OO. Address, M. T. RICHARDSON, Publisher, 84 and 8$ Reade 
Street, New York, 



'^QUEENFIELD" POR&ED OX SHOE. 




Made under the Parker and Colburn Patents, from Burden's H. B. and S. Iron. 
Nail holes punched and every shoe perfect. 

The Parker and Colburn Patents cover broadly the dies in which the shoes ar^ 
forged. We are the onlii licensees, and all parties are cautioned against using either 
of hhe dies or the forging mechanism or processes so protected, as our rights under 
gaid patents will be fully maintained. 

While we can furnish either the Concnve Shoe with One Calk, or the Flat Shoe with 
Tivo Calks, we emphatically recommend the Concave, with one Calk, for the following 
reasons, viz. : 

First — Because the entire bearing of the shoe should come upon the shell of the 
hoof and not upon the bail or the tender part of the foot, as is necessarily the ca^e with 
the flat shoe. This principle is recognized by all experts in the shoeing both of oxen 
and horses, and will prevent a tendency to sore footedness. 

Second — Because by haying one Calk only the shoe can be cut off or lengthened and 
fitted more perfectly to the foot. 

T'/i nr?— Because by having one Calk only theshoer can make the other calk at any 
angle he desires. 

No. 0, Full Length, Concave, m inches, weight p ?r set of eight shoes, 2 pounds. 



1, 



3 

4 
5 



it. 41 t^\^ H >» H <» 

Packed in boxes or kegs of 100 pounds, half each rights and lefts. Full weight 
and no charge for packages. 

PRICES. 

For orders of One Ton, or more '. cents per pound. 

1.000 lbs. or more 9}^ " 

500 '• '• 10 

Less than 500 lbs IOV2 " " 

Made ONLY by MILLERS FALLS COMPANY, 

93 Reade Street, = = = Ne^v YorK. 

SOLU BY AJ.L HAItJ>WAIlE JiEALERS, 



i^JUST PUBLISHED!'^! 



"PTISTI 



By PROF. GEORGE E. RICH. 



TT7HIS is a practical 
j[ and scientificireat- 
ise by a thorougii 
mechanic who can turn 
a horse-shoe with the 
most expert, and is will- 
ing to impart to others 
the information he has 
acquired during a life- 
time spent at the forge 
and in lecturing on the 
horse's foot and proper 
methods of shoeing. 
His new book gives im- 
proved methods of shoe- 
ing, with special direc- 
tions for shaping shoes 
to cure different dis- 
eases of the foot, and for 
the correction of faulty 
action. 

This book i^i 

Pilleti Willi Illustrations 

of different shaped shoes, each designed for a special purpose. 
It is not too much to say that this book is literally 

WORTH ITS WKIQHT IN OOLD 

to every man who shoes horses for a living. Every blacksmith or horse- 
shoer will find it profitable to send for one immediately. 

It is bound in Extra Cloth, with Ink Side Stamp, and will ,be sent to 
any address on receipt of One Oollar. 

Address all orders to 

M. T. RICHARDSON, Publisher, 

84 and 86 READE ST., NEW YORK. 




NEW BOOK 



ON 



CiRRlflGE * PAINTING. 

The Complete Carriap M Wapn Painter 




Is a work of nearly 200 pages, which gives 
in plain language, detailed directions for 
painting 

Carriages, Wagons and Sleighs, 

besides full instruction in all the various 
branches, includ.ng Lettering, Scrolling, 
Ornamenting, Striping, Varnishing and 
Coloring, vvitn numerous receipts for mixing 
color. It contains nearly Ttvo Hundred lllus* 
trations. This is, without douot, the most 
complete work of the kind ever issued. It 
contains information of value to the most ex- 
pert painter, and is indispensable to those 
whose opportunities for learning the busi- 
ness have been limited. This book will be 
found valuable to all, and especially to those 
who do their own painting. It contains 
twenty-two chapters, and treats, among other 
things, of Wagon Striping, with description 
of tools employed; Wagon Lettering, with 
illustrations of a great variety of letters, and 
directions how to make and shade them. 
Wagon Scrolling is fully described and illus- 
trated, and also Stenciling. Full description 
of how to Paint a Wagon from beginning to 
end; First Coat, Second Coat, Puttying, Sand- 
Papenng. Varnishing, etc. One chapter tells 
" How to Paint a Lumber Wagon ; " another 
relates to "Touching Up Repair Work;" an- 
other, " How to Paint a Cheap Job," includ- 
ing an Express Wagon ; "How to Re-Varnish 
a Carriage;" "Harmony of Colors;" Transfer 
Ornaments and how to make them. 



Illustrations Are GiYen of a Variety of Monograms. 

So much practical and valuable information for so little money, we believe, has never 
before been presented in so desirable a form. , j - i -j 

The price of this book, which is handsomely bound in cloth, with gold and ink sides, is 
but One Dollar, including the postage— that is, for $1.00 it will be dehvered at your post- 
office. 1^ • J 1 

Send the amount by post-office order, postal note, in postage stamps, by registered letter 
or express, or in any way most convenient. Address 

M. T. RICHAUDSON, Publisher, 

S4 & 86 Regde St., Mew York. 



